Thursday, May 11, 2023

Rounding the Bend

 A couple month ago we were told by some fellow boaters to watch the YouTubers on the sailing vessel Delos. They are a a couple who sails the world who just happen to also be in the Sea of Cortes. I glanced at their channel and found a video from a gorgeous location called Refugio. I watched as they had the place to themselves and went diving and made sure to add it to my list of stops. Well today was the day we would reach our furthest point north and anchor at Puerto Refugio just like we saw Delos do. The 48 mile cruise from Bahia Los Angeles to Delos was uneventful with light wind and waves and the weather looked great for a couple days at Refugio which is open to the north. As we arrived we noticed a catamaran in the spot we had chosen but with lots of room just moved east without a problem. The light winds brought with it lots of bugs. So many in fact that we couldn't sit outside without getting attacked. It was a little disappointing but we still enjoyed the views from inside. 

Our Furthest Point North - Sea of Cortes 

Leaving Bahia Los Angles 

Approaching Refugio 


Cruising into Refugio 

Anchored in Refugio 




Evening 

Sunset 

The next morning we awoke to a pod of dolphins swimming by the boat and watched as we drank our coffee. After, bugs be damned we hopped in the dink an headed to shore for a leg stretch and to explore. We found what could have been a couple of trails but they didn't seem to lead to anywhere so we turned around and opted for a beach walk instead. Little did we know that the closer we got to the caves the more territorial the seagulls got. They started flying right towards our heads in a obvious attempt to get rid of us. I didn't need to be told twice and turned around while Jeff proceeded and took pics and videos of the seagulls tactics. I waited in the shade until he had enough. Stupid seagulls. I was more then happy to be getting back into the dink and we took our time touring the three lobes of the anchorage until we noticed the other boats had all left and we were all alone. It felt nice and eerie at the same time. After lunch we toured the seal rookery across the anchorage and loved seeing them all sprawled out along the rocks and swimming in the water. So I guess technically we weren't really alone. 

Dolphins Swimming By 





Seagull Attack 

Anchored in Refugio 

Beach Walk 



Bird Attack 


Refugio 


Hiking Trail 

Refugio Anchorage 



Lots of Bone on Shore 

American Oyster Catcher 

Beach Walk 






Dingy Tour

Seal Rookery 



Piles of Seals 



Norther Eastern Cove Refugio

Shrine on the Hill 

All Alone in Refugio 

Sea Turtle 

Evening 



Sunset Refugio 

Unfortunately due to some upcoming winds our time at Refugio was going to be cut short. We had two more stops to make in route to the mainland and on April 29th at 10:10am we made our way to the first- Isla Estanque. The 50 mile cruise south was our first ever since cruising the Sea of Cortes on February 1st and it felt strange. We never saw another boat, nothing on AIS and no radio communication the entire day. We felt like we were all alone in the Sea and wondered where the rest of the cruisers were. As we approached the anchorage the same bizarre feeling ensued. Luckily we were greeted by tons of birds ready for their dinner. We sat in the aft deck and decompressed and watched the birds dive for food. 

Leaving Refugio 


Seagull Stowaways 

Approaching Isla Estanque 

Isla Estanque Anchorage 

Sunset 




Weather approaching we had to keep on moving and at and 0800 we pulled anchor and headed south east to Bahia de los Peros. Finally we saw a whale after not having seen one since cruising down the coast. It was my shift and I heard a loud blow right next to the boat that I jumped and quickly put the boat into neutral. We stopped and watched as the whale swam by eventually diving before we proceeded. The anchorage wasn't that special just a stopping point a good distance from Estaneque and San Carlos our next stop. Lots of boobies flew overhead and we could tell there were a lot of fish around. Towards evening time a panga with three fisherman came in and set up camp on shore. We were amazed how they could just sleep in the sand all night long. Tough guys. We spent a quiet evening onboard and prepared for our early morning cruise to our first stop on the mainland - San Carlos, home of Wild Bill. 

Whale 




Boobies

Bahia de los Peros Anchorage 

Boobie 

Circle Around the Moon 



 


















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