Tidings of Joy: Mid-Sea Mariners

After two full days of being spoiled at a marina in Santa Rosalia we felt it was time to move on and get back to boating. So on April 19th at 0700 we threw lines and made our way back into the sea heading northbound. We traveled 87 miles lasting 11 hours under sunny skies with light winds and calm seas. A perfect day to get back at it. We spent the day listening to our book on tape (do they still call them that even though they are no longer on tape?), gazing out the window and relaxing. We followed a sailboat called Karvi most of the day but interacting with on another. When we arrived at 6pm to San Francisquito there were three other sailboats there and the idea of safety in numbers made us feel good about our choice. We set the hook and settled into the anchorage for the night.

San Francisquito Anchorage

Overnight and for the next couple of days the wind was howling in the Sea and with nothing on shore we settled into the boat for the ride. The anchorage provided good wind protection but the wrap around swell kept us rolling most of the day. Two of the sailboats bailed leaving us and just one other sailboat in the anchorage. Content to be on the hook again we stayed in pjs the entire day and read, played cards and relaxed as the wind blew.

Day three at San Francisquito and the wind did not let up outside. Too rolly to drop the dink and explore we settled in for another day on board. Today was a bit more productive then the last completing some boat projects, making phone calls and readying ourselves for our morning departure. By this time we both were getting sick of rolling around. At some point in the day we saw a coyote walking around on the beach and beside the sea birds was our only animal siting.

San Francisquito

Finally the wind laid down and we were able to leave San Francisquito at 0845 we pulled anchor and continued our northbound exploration of the Sea. The day was sunny, calm winds and no waves. Such a difference from the last few days. Our five hour cruise took us to Punta Islotes which was a gorgeous mountain surrounded anchorage we had all to ourselves. After settling in for a bit we dropped the dink and made our way to shore. We were both ready for a leg stretch after being on board for the last three days. As we got closer to shore we noticed a shack on the beach along with a pick up truck and an rv. At first we weren't sure if they were abandoned or someone lived there. Nevertheless we walked along the white shell filled beach out to the tip and then back the other way along a sandy road carved with tire tracks. It was very hot and bugs were out in mass. After walking for awhile I felt a stabbing itching feeling on my calf and when I looked down a bug was suctioned to my leg and there was blood. I swatted it away but it kept following me all they way back to the dingy. Annoying! As we approached the dink we noticed a woman sitting outside and waved to her. She waved back but then quickly made her way back into the house next to the rv. Kinda feeling like we were intruding we left the bugs and the beach behind.

Mexican Navy Boat

Dink & Boat in Punta Islotes

Beach with RV & Shack

Beach Walk

Shore Walk Islotes

Boat Anchored By Herself

Sand Road Path

Huge Cactus

Heading Back to Boat

View From Anchor

Evening

Reluctantly the next morning it was time to move along. We had a weather window and still much to explore before turning south. So sadly at 1030am we up-anchored and said goodbye to Islotes and the beautiful mountain scenery. Todays cruise was a short 1.5hrs to Punta Pescador once a thriving resort area now and abandoned ghost town. As we approached the white sandy beach came into focus along with tons of birds and seals. Once again we had the place to ourselves. We scratched our heads wondering why such a lovely place wouldn't make it and felt sorry for the owner whose business sat empty and abandoned on shore. Somehow we felt we weren't alone. After a bit we took the dink to shore and began exploring. First we walked along the beach to the empty abandoned palapas on the beach taking time to look into them and noticing several still had furniture and books and things still in it. The entire time we kept expecting someone to come out and ask if they could help us but they never did. Puzzled we proceeded along the shoreline and took our time shelling. There were hundreds of beautiful unique shells scattered everywhere and as we strolled we kept saying to one another, "look at this one" or "check this one out." It was really nice and we felt so special being all alone in such a gorgeous place.

Birds in Punta Pescador

Punta Pescador

Boat Anchored Alone in Pescador

Beach Walk

Abandoned Palapa on Shore

Whale Bone

Inside of Abandoned Palapa

Abandoned Palapas and Tractor

Shelling

Reef

Little did we know as we up-anchored at Pescador what a special place awaited us at our next stop Puerto Don Juan. I mean I guess from just the name alone we should have thought something important was happening there but neither the guidebooks or active captain posts would adequately portray what we were about to experience in Don Juan. Known for being a great hurricane hole anchorage was about all we knew but as we made the first turn into it we began to see the magic that was inside. First it was a swath of pelicans and gulls then as we continued four separate pods of seals floated together fins raised in the air as they napped in unison. As we got closer and closer to our designated location the birds multiplied and the seals did as well. I felt like Charles Darwin at the Galapagos entering this magical sea world where we were the intruders. The birds parted from the water as we glided in and once at our spot we just looked overhead and all around dumbfounded at where we were. Hook down we immediately proceeded to the stern to take our seats and watch the show as hundreds of birds were frantically diving for fish and seals eating that same fish. Pelicans swooned overhead plunging from 20 feet above like darts into the water as gulls pounced on them trying to steal the fish fresh from their mouths. This process went on nonstop all day long and over and over all around the entire boat. At first we didn't know where to look because so much was happening everywhere then we settled in and just took in the show in its entirety. It never got old. We put in a full days work just watching and being in awe of our new anchorage and still in disbelief that once again we had the place to ourselves. Where was everybody? Their loss. It was magic and I knew this was a multi-day stop.

Entering Don Juan

Seals & Birds Gallor

Puerto Don Juan Anchorage

Seal Pod

Sunset Don Juan

Moon & Stars

The next morning we woke up to a real treat. It appeared that the bait ball had move under the boat for protection because both the seals and all the birds were right at the boat making their dives and hovering around. And at one point Jeff discovered the birds getting really close to the haul as they looked straight ahead. He assumed the birds were seeing their reflection in the haul for the first time and they were mesmerized with themselves as they gawked away staring for hours. Between that and the constant diving for fish we were more then entertained and once again took our seats in the stern for the nonstop show. Sometime later in the day we took the dink to shore to look for a hike the guidebooks had mentioned. We were somewhat successful having only to bushwhack and meander for a little bit. We did make it to the top of a ridge and had a very pretty view. It felt good to stretch our legs but I kept feeling like we were missing the show back at the boat. After we returned we once again took our seats into the evening and watched the birds and seals hunting all around us. Spectacular.

Morning Time

Pelicans Looking At Themselves in Haul

Bait Ball Under Boat

Seals

Boat From Shore

Dink & Boat From Shore

Hiking

View From Top

Harold

Always Feeding Time

Seals

Anchored in Don Juan

Sunset

I told Jeff I want to live in Puerto Don Juan. What's wrong with waking up everyday to hundreds of birds flying overhead as seals swim by and having the place all to yourself. Sounds like a dream come true. But Jeff didn't see it the same way as I did. He had Bahia Los Angeles in mind going to a restaurant and being in a town. Boo!!!!!! The short 6 mile run around the corner leaving my friends behind was hard for me but that's life I guess - compromise and adjustment. The winds remained calm and the seas flat and the bay was huge. There was an azamit on a mooring ball but other then that it was just us. Jeff already spotted the restaurant and once settled we hopped in the dink and made our way there. Guillermo's has a beach right in front where we anchored the dink and walked up. Two tables were in use by people speaking english and I felt a jolt back into society. Bah. They were out of guacamole which meant no lunch options for me so I sat while Jeff had a beer and fish tacos. The view of the anchorage was pretty and we were entertained watching a young couple with their two little girls run around. The small community had a museum which we attempted to go to but we missed it by one hour. Everyday only open from 10-1. After we proceeded down the main road to the grocery store and stocked up on some fresh foods. I was pleasantly surprised by their organic well stocked produce. Backpack and grocery bags loaded we walked back to Guillermo's and the dink. Back at the boat we unloaded and took in the view of our new anchorage and at one point a panga with a man came right next to us and anchored while he dove on the bottom for oysters. It was quite a spectacle and we wondered why he had to be right on top of us. Fortunately after his collection he up-anchored and left. I was happy this was only a one nighter.