Tidings of Joy: The Panama Canal

Finally the day we had been anticipating, planning and contemplating was finally here- our passage through the Panama Canal. Jeff had hired our agent months in advance and after measurements were taken, fees paid and endless questions answered it was time. I had been stressing over menu ideas on what to feed the workers who would be helping us, comparing menus with other boaters who had gone through before us and anxious that they would be disappointed by my vegan offerings, I let it go and we provisioned. On January 5th the day prior to our passage I spent 8 hours in the galley prepping food for that night and the following day. Our agent told us to make sure we had enough food for 5-6 people (Jeff, myself, three line handlers and an advisor) for two days in case we weren't able to make it through the canal in one day and had to anchor in the lake. This usually only pertains to sailboats who can't maintain speed to keep up with fast freighters but I did as I was told.

At 7:30pm on January 5th Juan, Jr. and Nic our trusty line handlers (I was handler number 4 of the required 4 by the canal) arrived at our boat stocked with 4-150 foot lines (required by canal) and also huge ball fenders, also required by the canal that we rented from our agent. They immediacy threw everything on the bow like it was nothing. They entered the boat and politely made their introductions shaking our hands professionally. I asked if they were hungry and everyone said yes and I began seating them and plating their dinner. I made salmon en crute, mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli. This was our dinner as well. I wanted to make sure everyone was well fed for the big day ahead. The men seemed appreciative and we chatted while they at their dinner. Jeff and I ate before their arrival. Once dinner was completed Juan helped us call the Flamenco Station via radio to let them know we were ready for our passage the next day. They acknowledge us and confirmed and told us to be between buoys 3 and 4 by 4:30am to pick up our advisor and make our transit. We thanked them and said goodnight. All boats 65 feet and under are required by the canal to have an advisor on board during your transit. This person acts as the go liaison between the boat and the canal. He or she also does all the communication with the workers at the lock. After completing our required call to the Flamenco station we showed the line handlers to their bunks and said our goodnights as we were all getting up at 3am for our 3:30 departure from the dock.

Cooking Away in the Galley

Line Handlers Arrive with Lines & Fenders

Juan, Jr & Nic Having Dinner Onboard

I don't think either of us slept much that night. We were both so excited and gitty and ready for our passage. We set our alarm for 2:30am for our 3:30 departure. I had the coffee pot set to brew at 2:45 to make sure we all had coffee before starting out. I woke up ecstatic. Let's go! Despite not having slept much I was ready to see what this day beheld. We quickly got dressed and heard the men stirring as well. I laid out muffins and bananas incase anyone needed immediate food before I served breakfast. Like clockwork sometime between 3:15 and 3:30 me and the guys were throwing lines and heading out to meet the advisor. It was pitch black so Jeff chose to drive from the fly bridge for better vision. We crept around the corner toward the Playita anchorage and hovered just floating until our advisor arrived via pilot boat. Almost exactly at 0430 we saw a pilot boat heading straight at us and knew this must be the advisor. The line handlers got fenders in position to intercept the advisor. Our boat holds steady and the pilot boat maneuvers around us to get close enough for the advisor to jump aboard. The transition was smooth and flawless. The line handlers all welcomed Francisco (our advisor) with handshakes and hellos and I did the same. Francisco was tall and lanky and didn't seem too enthused to be coming aboard. Little did we know the foreshadowing which was occurring. Francisco stood with me in the pilot house not wanting to sit or have coffee or anything. He brought his own handheld radio which he used to communicate with the lock. I explained Jeff, the captain was up top in order to see better. He didn't respond. Instead he told orders to me which I conveyed to Jeff via headset. I thought this was a little strange that he didn't go up top to see Jeff, introduce himself or give advice. Somehow I was the go between. As we approached Mira Flores lock (lock number 1 of 3) two tugs were coming out of the lock after positioning the freighter we would lock with. Francisco told me to tell Jeff to turn to port for a starboard to starboard passage with the tug. I did. As Francisco was speaking with the tug via radio he told them we would be passing starboard to starboard and the tug said no port to port. Francisco again tried to tell them starboard to starboard as they got closer and closer. The tug refused as they have the right away as a working canal boat and next thing I know Francisco is shouting at me turn to starboard turn to starboard and I'm conveying this to Jeff via headset as he does so the tug just misses us by feet. This was nuts and I was in disbelief at what had just happened. At this point we are pulling into the lock and I need to go outside to handle by line. I ask Francisco if he wants my headset in order to communicate with Jeff and he sighs and just says no I will go up top. So weird. At this point Jeff is so pissed at this advisor he has yet to meet that when he finally comes up to the flybridge he can't even look at him. I make my way to the bow with the three guys as monkey fists start flying at us. Monkey fists are hard round balls at the end of the lines the canal workers throw to/at you to catch that we adhere to our own lines and then send back to them. I sware it felt like they were aiming them at us and not to us. The guys thankfully caught them all and Jr. tied my bowline for me and we all maned our positions. I was port bow, Jr starboard bow, Nic port stern and Juan starboard stern. The first two locks - Mira Flores and Pedro Miguel you lock up meaning the entire time water is pouring into the lock you are constantly tightening your line in order to keep the boat in position. We were positioned center canal, using all four lines behind the freighter Grace.

Pilot Boat Approaching

Offloading Francisco to Us

Freighter Grace Heading to the Mira Flores Lock

Following Grace to Mira Flores

Passing Port of Balboa

In Mira Flores Lock with Grace

Jeff at the Helm in Mira Flores Lock

Mira Flores Behind Grace

Screen Shot of Tidings of Joy in Mira Flores Lock

Nothing in the canal moves very quickly. Before we could even enter Mira Flores or our next lock Pedro Miguel, Grace had to be in position and secured before we were called in then once we were in position the lock doors closed and the water began to pour in. The distance between our first lock Mira Flores and Pedro Miguel was less then a mile and just enough time to take a breath then get ready to do it again. By this time the sun was out and we could see around. It was quiet and peaceful. As we made our way to Pedro Miguel me and the linelhandlers once again took our positions on the bow while monkey fists were hurled at us. Several hit the roof of the pilot house and we were worried they were going to take out our interments. Several boater have mentioned damaged solar panels from the blunt force of the monkey fists hitting it. To me it felt like a game the canal workers were playing like they were trying to hit and take out various parts of the boat. Fortunately again Nic, Juan and Jr. caught them all. Jr and I made our way up to the bow and began puling in our lines as Jeff kept the boat in position. I was so nieve thinking oh I've done hundreds of locks on the great loop I will be experienced and good at this. Boy was I wrong. These lines were fat and intense and the current from not only the lock but the prop wash from Grace kept me tugging hard on my line. At one point I was struggling to get it tighten enough in time that Jr. came over and secured it for me. I should have worn gloves as my hands were torn up but noticed none of the guys were so I didn't want to be the girl who had to wear gloves. Big mistake.

Cruising to Pedro Miguel Lock Behind Grace

Grace Entering Pedro Miguel

In Pedro Miguel with Grace

After Pedro Miguel we said goodbye to Grace as she hit the gas and left us in her dust. By this time Francisco and Jeff had barely spoken and we didn't know what to expect. Lucky for us the line handers were amazing and really were our real advisors. Juan mentioned that our third and final lock Gatun wouldn't be for 5 or so hours. That was my cue to switch roles and hit the galley. As the guys were cleaning up the lines I began making breakfast. On the menu were breakfast sandwiches, hash browns, mixed fruit, orange juice and coffee. By this time (roughly 9am) we were all starving and ready to tuck in. The guys all ate around the table and I took Jeff and Fernando theirs in the fly bridge. The guys all ate seconds the hit their rack for a much needed nap. At some point Jeff came inside to drive in the pilothouse and in the a.c. and I again switched rolls and gave him a break from the helm. The boat was quiet and still as we enjoyed our ride through Lake Gatun.

Bridge of the Americas

Waterfall in Lake Gatun

Cruising Lake Gatun

Lots of Traffic In The Lake

Happy In The Canal

So at some point Francisco decided to take a break from staring at his phone and tell Jeff to slow way down because for our next and final lock Gatun we were waiting on a freighter who would catch up with us and lock through. He told Jeff we would enter at approximately 1:30pm. This told me too that I should plan to have lunch ready by noon so we would have adequate time to eat and for me to clean up before we approached the lock. Coincidently right outside Gatun Lock were my aunt and uncle who happened to be on a Princess cruise that was doing a partial canal transition at the exact same time and exact same location as us. We would hover right next to their boat for an hour before we were told to enter the lock. So crazy. As noon approached once again I hit the galley to start reheating the veggie enchiladas and rice and beans I had made the previous day. I would serve this with a fresh garden salad. By noon on the dot I was plating and serving the guys, Jeff and Francisco. Everyone seemed happy with it and full. When I offered them mini cupcakes and Carmel chocolate bar for dessert Juan's response was, "what is this my birthday?" I said yes happy birthday and laid the desserts on the counter for them to take as they desired. Jeff had his immediately. Finally we saw the Virgen de la Auroa arriving and knew it was almost time to enter our final lock Gatun. For this lock instead of following the freighter in we would go in first. After hovering for an hour waiting we were ready. Francisco told Jeff to go and we entered taking our positions as we had in the previous two locks on the bow. The monkey fists were much more gentle here. Instead of flying at our faces they were more lobbed and even I caught one. We secured our position and waited as this giant freighter entered behind us looking like it was going to run us over. It was intense to witness and we all watched in amazement. This time we would lock down to the Caribbean Sea. Going down is so much easier line handling wise than going up. It's a gentle letting out of water and as you are high atop a mountain of water our job was to just pay out a little bit of line as we got lower down. And the view from the top was amazing. We all preferred it.

Uncle Mark & Aunt Alba's Cruise Ship Next to Us

Virgen de la Auroa Approaching Gatun Lock

Entering Gatun Lock

In Position

The Virgen Coming in Behind Us

Jeff in Gatun Lock

Door Opening to Let Us Into Chamber 2 Gatun Lock

Chamber 2 Gatun Lock

Screen Shot Tidings of Joy in Gatun Locks

Sometime during the second and third chamber of Gatun it started to rain and then to pour and Jr. and I retreated for our raincoats and hats. Jr and Juan preferred to go shirtless and enjoy the swim.

3rd Chamber Gatun- Pouring

3rd and Final Chamber of Gatun Opening- End Panama Canal

As we realeased the lines from the 3rd and final chamber of Gatun and made our way into the Caribbean I turned around and looked at Jeff at the helm and began jumping up and down and giving him a thumbs up. We did it!!! We went through the Panama Canal in our own boat. I felt like I could cry but didn't. As we made our way out Francisco began calling his pilot boat to pick him up. Thankfully not too much after that the boat came and he was on his way. Good riddance to a terrible advisor.

Leaving the Canal

Good Riddance Francisco

From the rally point of dropping off Francisco we would have an hour cruise left before getting to Shelter Bay Marina. The rain continued and now Juan took over as advisor showing Jeff where to go to cut over from the shipping channel and avoiding a reef. Thank god for Juan and the line-handlers they really made all the difference in our experience. Everyone was wonderful. As we approached Shelter Bay I got on the radio and got our slip assignment and confirmed our location. At this point Juan said to me, "now you're in charge, tell us how you want things boss" which I found amusing but appropriate. How nice to have experienced deck hands on board who actually know what they are doing and do their jobs well. As we made our way into the marina Juan and I stood on the bow looking out for our dock while Jr and Nic manned the stern. I immediately spotted our friend Kurtis on Summer Breeze who was out filming our arrival. Juan and I both gave him a huge two armed wave and I started feeling gitty to be reunited with our friends again. We made our way to our slip I saw Dietmar the founder of our Ocean Posse at our slip along with Rob from Avant another co-founder all there to welcome us in. We had so much help and comradely at the dock I was a bit overwhelmed. Me and the line handlers got lines tightened up and I connected the power with Jeff all the while getting drenched from rain. We were here. We had made it. Our transit of the canal was over and we were safely tied up in our slip at our marina. Finally I could exhale and a storm of emotions washed over me from gratitude to excitement to pride. It was all there. We thanked and hugged the line handers and gave them a tip before they took the rental lines and fenders and made their way to the parking lot where Erick our agent picked them up. We went about business as usual- me filling out my log book, charging the handheld radio and headset batteries, and putting things from the galley back in place. As soon as it was quiet and settled Jeff and I cracked a bottle of champagne and cheers'd our successful transit while reviewing the days highlights. As some point during this we heard a tap on the side of the boat and it was Dietmar coming over to congratulate us on a successful passage. We invited him in and poured him some champagne as well. We felt honored that our leader (and now friend) would come over and wish us congrats. We were very anxious (despite being totally sleep deprived and delirious) to connect with our good friends Kurtis and Sam and Doug and Patty and made a plan to meet them at the restaurant for dinner. We had long drawn out hugs and shots to celebrate. After dinner we came back to our boat and drank a lot of rum and just felt really good about not only our amazing accomplishment of transiting the canal but also our reunion with our friends who we missed dearly.