Still riding the high of the canal crossing we spent the week hanging with friends and watching as other friends too completed their canal crossing. We looked anxiously for a weather window to get out to the San Blas Islands but the Christmas winds and boat breakdowns had other plans for us. While we waited on weather and mechanics to fix our coolant leek and replace missing bolts from the starboard shaft we decided to take a trip to Boquete. We always intended to visit there but due to a heavy travel schedule during the off season it never happened. This was our chance. Jeff booked some last minute flights out of Panama City to David, Brigadoon gave us the name of their driver who could take us to the airport and I had chat gbt create a five day itinerary for us and we were set.
On Monday January 13th the driver was promptly waiting for us at noon in the parking lot and once more we drug our bags to the car. The drive to the city was uneventful and within an hour and twenty minutes we were at the airport. The flight much like the drive was only a little over an hour to David where we picked up our rental car and made another hour drive to Boquete. Situated 4,000 feet above sea level the quaint mountain town with its cool breeze and its green lush highlands immediately drew us in. We arrived at the Panamonte hotel just as it was getting dark and checked into our room. The grounds were filled with beautiful gardens which were perfectly maintained. Our room was charming and had a relaxing laid back feel. We had just enough time to unpack, settle in and change before heading to Tach, the hotel restaurant for our seven thirty reservation. Like the hotel the restaurant was charming and I was excited to try Chef Justin Campbell's restaurant. Some reviews said it was the best in all of Boquete and our meal didn't disappoint. I had a veggie platter then vegetable fried rice and Jeff had ceviche and plank salmon which he said was the best he's ever had. Washed down with cocktails and wine it felt like the perfect start to our getaway.
Heading to Panama City
Gardens at the Hotel
Dinner at Tach
We both slept great in our king size bed which felt so luxuriously after having a queen on the boat. We had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before walking into town. Both chat gbt and our friend Patty said to make sure we hit the Tuesday local market for spices and other local goods. The walk into town was easy and nice and cool. Little did we know that in addition to the Tuesday market there was also a flower festive happening. For two dollars and fifty cents you could stroll around and see these beautiful flower gardens. So we did both. I found some spices that I haven't been able to find since leaving the states, think fenugreek and garam masala. I was quite happy and chatted it up with the spice guy for a while too. The flowers were really pretty and lots of people were out admiring them. For lunch we ended up going to this wellness spa where I thought we were going to a vegan restaurant but it was closed and we went to the main restaurant on property which also had several vegan items along with stunning views of the green covered mountains. It felt so peaceful and relaxing. We both had salads while basking in the view.
Flower Festival
At the Flower Festival
Lunch at Sabor Escondido
After our nice lunch we made our way back to the hotel where a shuttle from Don Pepe Coffee tours was to pick us up and take us to their facility for a coffee tour. At 1:30 the bus promptly picked us up and we sat among other tourist all ready for coffee and speaking English. We've been on coffee tours in every country we have been in since Mexico and yet this one was unique. First we went into the tasting area where we were each given four cups of grounds which we poured hot water on then with a spoon quickly slurped each one into our mouths. It was such a bizarre way to taste coffee but you got the full effect. Sounds of rapid slurps filled the air as we voted on which coffee we liked the best. Every coffee producer in Boquete is proud of their Geisha coffee which is unique to the area and is more black tea like then coffee but wasn't something that either of us enjoyed despite being told how great and special this diva was. We bought our three bags and then the tour began. We walked through the fields and saw the coffee plants then were shown a variety of beans in different stages of life, we saw the drying areas and the sorting and washing plant before returning to the bus. Our guide was funny and did a lot of shtick to keep us all entertained.
Coffee Tasting
Coffee Pickers
Guide Explaining Coffee Process
Coffee Beans Drying
Coffee Processing Area
Tour the Fields
After a very extensive three plus hour tour we were driven back to the hotel where we took a nice rest before dinner. That evening we walked into town to Retrogusto for dinner. This place got good reviews and chat gbt recommended it so we were hopeful. When I said to the waiter in Spanish that I was vegan and could he help me with some menu items his response was, "oh my god!" This didn't leave me feeling very confident and I concocted my own menu of pasta with veggies. Jeff had some fish he said was dry and not that great. Very blah all around but hey they can't all be winners.
Diner at Retrogusto
The next morning we woke up to pouring rain which I love but makes doing outdoor activities that much more challenging. We had our leisurely breakfast at the hotel then decided to drive to the volcano. For some reason we thought driving ourselves and walking would be better than taking the 4x4 tour. In retrospect I would have taken the tour. We made our way up to the parking lot then decided to walk the steep, muddy and rocky road to the volcano. With my backpack and umbrella I grumpily started hiking uphill while bitching. We got as far as the rangers station before deciding this muddy boulder walk was not for us. Instead we took a nice scenic drive into the mountains admiring the landscape and the charming house/cottages. At lunchtime we decided on a place called Big Daddy's which had a few vegan items which is always a draw for me. When we arrived we noticed several tables of older ex-pats having lunch and enjoying themselves. The scenery was charming and had the feeling of being in a tree house. The rain continued to fall and we watched several cats sleeping on the chairs and couches near the dining area. I had a veggie burger and Jeff a fish sandwich. Both we were just ok but the entertainment far exceeded the food. As the ex-pats finished their lunch they began busing their own tables and moving them all around before one older gentleman stood up and made some sort of announcement before cards and boxes appeared. We are guessing they were playing bridge or some game like that and multiple tables began breaking off into sets of four. I swear it felt like we were at a senior citizens center and not a restaurant. Odd. I was on the hunt for coffee so we found Morton's bakery where Jeff could get a pastry and I a cup of coffee. I guess it was jewish owned cause Jeff got a rugelach which he seemed pleased with. Coffee was just ok.
Muddy Volcano Walk
Lunch at Big Daddy's aka Senior Citizen Center
Cats Sleeping at Big Daddy's
River Walk
Before going to dinner at Christopher's we wanted to take advantage of our beautiful hotel and made our way to the bar for happy hour. We sat by a beautiful boulder lined fireplace while sipping an Aperol spritz and an old fashioned. It was quaint and charming and felt cozy and secure in the mountains. And just when I thought Tach was going to be our favorite restaurant Christopher's snuck in as the new hot shot in town. We walked the short block down the hill and were greeted by a charming host who doubled as our waiter. We were taken outside where our table over looked the trees which were beautifully illuminated for ambiance. Having already had our cocktails we opted for wine and were somehow talked into getting our own bottles as it was good value. Cool jazz played throughout the restaurant and it just had a laid back cool vibe. Where were we? I had a big delicious veggie salad to start and Jeff had ceviche. Both excellent. For dinner I had roasted cauliflower with veggies and homemade potato chips and Jeff had prawns. Again outstanding. We were very impressed by the quality of the food and the attentiveness of the waiter. There was no vegan dessert so we paid our bill and made our way outside. The owner was outside waiting to thank us for our business and apologized for not have a vegan dessert for me and told me if/when I come back they would. It was a nice touch to a wonderful evening.
Hotel Bar
Drinks at the Bar
Dinner at Christopher's
View From Christopher's
Roasted Cauliflower
The next day we needed to work off some of these big meals we've been indulging in and opted to hike the pipeline trail. We were told it was easier than the famous three waterfalls trail. After breakfast at the hotel we drove to the hike. As you enter a lady and her daughter meet you to sign in and pay the fee. Jeff liked that they kept track of us in case we didn't make it back out. The trail was well maintained and very green and lush and gorgeous and the continuous incline wasn't that bad. There were a few bridges and some water crossing but nothing too extreme. The waterfall at the end was a great reward after our efforts. We stopped for a bit and drank water and took in the scene. It was a great way to start the day.
Starting the Pipeline Trail
Pipeline
100 Year Old Tree On Pipeline Trail
Waterfall at End of Pipeline
After Pipeline we were starving and ready to tuck into some lunch. I found a place called Dobo which had vegan options for me. It was part of a hotel and the restaurant had trees growing all around it and felt really open and nice. I had a veggie wrap and Jeff had shrimp spaghetti. The food was good but the service was pretty lousy. We were pretty wiped out from the hike and lunch so we returned to the hotel. When Jeff booked our room it said it was only available 4 of our 5 nights. When he later looked on Expedia it showed the honeymoon suite available which he booked for our final night. So after lunch we got our bags and were moved to the suite. It came with an outdoor fireplace and a huge jacuzzi tub which we promptly got into. It was a huge room and it felt really luxurious and special. After naps and jacuzzi we got ready for our last dinner and sat outside in front of our fireplace and drank some wine. It was so great having our own fireplace. It felt intimate and cozy.
Our final dinner was at a place called The Rock which was recommended to us by friends and chat gbt. We took a cab there since we had and would continue to have some drinks. When we arrived a three piece band was playing classic rock and it felt fun and like a party. I had a salad and roasted cauliflower and Jeff had ceviche and sea bass. Everything was excellent and at the end we were given a huge marshmallow to roast on a fire they had lit behind the restaurant. It was a nice touch and a great way to end our time in Boquete.
View at Dobo
Jacuzzi Tub
The Honeymoon Suite
Our Private Fireplace
Dinner at The Rock
Band Playing at The Rock
Marshmellow Dessert
The next morning we enjoyed our final breakfast at the hotel and soaked up the last of our honeymoon suite before packing up and driving back to to David to take our flight back to Panama City where our same driver would drive us back to the the marina at Shelter Bay. It was a wonderful trip filled with good weather, beautiful mountain scenery and great food. Very happy we made the trek to Boquete.
Goodbye Panamonte Hotel
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