Tidings of Joy: Orienting Our Way Through Oregon

Today was a big day. We would cruise across the Columbia River bar to Astoria, Oregon. Those of you not familiar with bars: the bar is the area where the deep waters of the Pacific Ocean meet with the shallower waters near the mouth of the river. Bars can be very turbulent and each one along the coast has its own bar report provided by the coast guard. They announce regularly the bar conditions including swell, wave height and wind speed and if there are any hazard when crossing the bar including a total closure of the bar not allowing any boats to cruise in or out. Today the conditions seemed good for crossing the bar 4-5 feet swells with 1 foot wind waves. While we try and time the bar with either slack tide or on the flood today we were a bit early and arrived as the water was still ebbing making conditions a bit sporty. Jeff drives across all the bars a lot of time having to manually steer in order to take the best approach for the waves. Today was no different. Going 1400 RPM's we were only going 4-6mph. Quite a lot of adverse current. We held our breath a bit and before we knew it we were across. High Five! At 4:20pm we were tying up at our slip in Astoria. The guest docks were open to the river and the boat wakes frequently rolled in making our slip rock and roll a lot. At this point we both have covid and after the strain of tying up we laid on the couch. Shortly after this cute couple with cocktails in hand were knocking at the boat asking if we were really from San Diego. We both masked up not wanting to spread our pestilence and told them we were and making our way there now. They too were from San Diego on a gorgeous Grand Banks Aleutian heading north. We told them we would invite them in but we were both sick with covid and after exchanging boat cards we said goodbye. Such as shame we couldn't hang out but we were happy they came by.

Approaching Columbia River Bar

Columbia River Bar

Coast Pilot Columbia River Bar

Columbia River

Approaching Astoria

Tided up in Astoria

Astoria Marina

Freighter Passing By

We both were more then disappointed that we had covid and were not able to leave the boat and see Astoria the one time we crossed the Columbia River. This was exactly why I didn't want to get covid for this cruise. Disappointed and sick we threw lines the next morning at 10:13a.m. timing the bar for the way back out into the Pacific. Conditions were similar today 5foot swells with 1-3 foot wind waves but today the sun was shining. Going with the ebb tide the crossing felt less rough and more comfortable. Once across we were afforded stunning views of green mountains off the Oregon coast. We both were still very sick taking two hour shifts at the helm while the other napped. Neither of us had any energy and we were like a symphony of coughs, sneezes and moans. After 7 hours and what felt very long due to being sick we finally made our way into Tillamook and dropped the hook with one other boat in the anchorage. Boy were we happy to be done for the day.

Pretty Oregon Coastline

Pelican

Entering Tillamook Bay

Tillamook Bay

Anchored in Tillamook

The next day there was a small craft warning for outside the bay so we decided to stay put and man was it nice for being sick to sleep in and stay in pjs the entire day. It's what we both needed so badly. We spent the day reading, napping, watching movies and nursing ourselves back to good health. That evening the pelicans provided the entertainment as they fished for food right next to the boat. We sat outside and enjoyed the fresh air and watched the pelican show.

Pelicans Fishing

Th next day we woke up at 5:30a.m. ready to up-anchor and head out. Jeff turned on the radio for the morning bar report and when he heard it was restricted with 6-8 foot swells and fog we decided we didn't want to deal with that and went back to sleep. Another day of rest and recovery in Tillamook.

Tillamook Bay

Rested and yet not recovered we up-anchored at 6:45a.m. and headed for the Tillamook Bar. Today we had 5-8 foot swells and fog not just at the bar but for the entire day. It was one of our most uncomfortable cruising days to date. Winds were light but the seas were confused tossing us around a lot making going to the bathroom and getting food a challenge. I had been calling Newport Harbor for days trying to make a reservation on their guest dock. Each day was the same, push number one to get transferred to the marina office (as they were an r.v. park as well) then listen to it ring for about 6-8 times then finally hear their voicemail about hours and how they are busy but will return your call within 48hrs. I had left three messages before we just decided to take a spot on the long tie along guest dock. The power pedestal didn't work and after our long barf ride neither of us was in the mood for anymore hassles. Being a Sunday the office was closed when we arrived. We secured the boat, fired up the generator, made dinner and went to bed. Really annoying day all around.

Approaching Newport Marina

Docked at Newport Marina

Jeff's Response to Newport Marina

Unlike Newport, Coos Bay Marina was responsive and friendly when we called and made a reservation telling us there is plenty of room on the guest dock and to tie up anywhere we like. The day was long 10 hours and 92 miles but we did get a little sun mixed with the fog. Still nursing ourselves from covid we didn't have much stamina. We dodged a lot of crab pots and when we finally approached the marina at 5:15pm it was a welcome site. I remembered it from 2020 with all the locals lining the transient docks with their crab pots and lawn chairs. Fortunately they were fishing on the opposite side of the dock and their chairs didn't get in the way as I secured the lines. Office close for the day we stayed inside, made dinner and went to bed early.

Coos Bay Bar

Cruising into Coos Bay

Coos Bay Marina

Cannery Across From Marina

Tied up at Coos Bay

Local Crabber

We woke up early the next day to be the first ones at the fuel dock before it opened, a trick we learned from a fishing boat in Port Angeles. The fuel docks was just across the fairway and at 7:30 we were tied up and ready for the 8a.m. opening to be on our way. In that time we made coffee and breakfast and got the bar reports. While the Coos bay bar was good the Bandon Bar report where we intended to go today was not. Bandon's bar was closed to all recreational vessels. If you were a commercial fisherman you were instructed to call the coast guard for permission. That was disappointing but while not having given up our spot on the transient dock after taking on 250 gallons of fuel (enough to get us to Long Beach) we tied back up at the transient dock and waited for the bar to open. Unfortunately it never did and we stayed a second day at Coos Bay. Today though was a big day. I finally got off the boat after staying isolated for two weeks. We took a very slow stroll as neither of us had much energy yet. I masked up and went into a coffee shop for a very bitter and gross americano. We saw what there was a the little town area mostly restaurants and a couple little shops. Throughly exhausted we returned to the boat.

Neighbor Boat in Coos Bay

Shop in Coos Bay

Once again the bar was closed in Bandon and once again we stayed in Coos Bay waiting for it to open. It never did and we began to rework our plan. All the guidebooks raved about Bandon but it if was going to be this difficult to get in and out maybe it wasn't for us after all. Neither of us felt very good and we stayed in pj's the whole day devising a new plan.

The next day would be our first 100 mile day. Having eliminated Bandon the next available stop along the coast was Brookings. The day was foggy and the Coos Bay bar was rough with a restriction of 25 feet plus length in order to cross. We watched the fishing boats disappear in the fog and we watched the radar all the way out. Eventually the fog dissipated a bit then it was just overcast and then some sun came out. Always a welcome surprise. We also saw our first whale of the trip which is always exciting. By the time we arrived at Brookings at 6pm we were wiped out. The office closed and nothing but fisherman around we slipped into the side tie of the transient dock and I secured the boat. Jeff feeling antsy after the long ride insisted we take a walk to stretch our legs. While I would have been more then content to just lay on the couch for some reason put on my tennis shoes and followed along. The town was familiar from 2020 with restaurants, a coffee shop and an ice cream parlor. Lots of people were out for the summer evening. Since we both still had covid we decided that eating at a restaurant was out of the question and we returned to the boat where I grumpily made dinner. Tomorrow we will cross back into the land of perpetual sun, smog and fires.