Today was the day we would return to the motherland. The land of perpetual sun, drought, smog and wildfires. Oh yeah also friends and family too. After cruising the Pacific Northwest for two years and finding our ideal climate, scenery and endless cruising grounds we (probably me more then Jeff) were less then enthusiastic to be returning to California. Nevertheless today was that day. The short three hour cruise to Crescent City afforded us the luxury of sleeping in and throwing lines at 10a.m. and by 1:40 we were secured and ready to explore. On the way north we didn't stop at Crescent City so we were excited about seeing a new location. We threw on our tennis shoes, grabbed the trash and headed out. For some unknown reason there is only one set of dumpsters for the entire marina which are located on the opposite side of the basin next to the harbormasters office. Still not 100% recovered from Covid this walk already exhausted us. Ignoring it and determined to carry on we set out to see the city which turned out to be a series of closed down or run down businesses and some corporate chains. We made our way to Rite-Aid and picked up some more Covid tests and then onto the market for some fresh foods provisions. This one hour round trip walk exhausted us and when we returned to the boat we were done for. We spent a quiet evening on the boat.
Crossing Into California
Egret Heading into Crescent City
Crescent City
Lighthouse Crescent City
Tied up at the Transient Dock
The weather continued to be good so on we went throwing lines at 7:20a.m and making the 70 mile coastal journey to Eureka. The day was clear with light small 3 foot swells and 3-5mph winds. It doesn't get much better then that for coastal cruising. We saw sea dogs and muir underway and as we crossed the bar into Eureka it felt familiar. On our way north we went to the marina where we got stuck for many days. Since the weather continued to look good we decided to anchor instead. In 2020 we saw another boat anchored just outside the channel and decided to try it ourselves. When Jeff called the coast guard for the bar report he also inquired about anchoring and they told us anywhere outside the channel would be fine. Mostly open to the outside we tucked slightly around the corner from the bar entrance and felt some swell rock us around but not too bad. More like laying in a cradle and getting rocked back and forth. I found it to be soothing. After dinner we were afforded a gorgeous wide open sunset. We sat outside soaking it in all the while thinking about our early departure the next day.
Anchored in Eureka
Gorgeous Sunset in Eureka
I didn't sleep much that night because I knew what the morning would bring - Cape Mendicino. On our way up on 2020 everyone talked about Point Conception and rounding that which we found to be no big deal due to good weather but when we hit Mendicino suddenly I was faced with my first 10 foot wave and it took me very off guard to the point I found myself shouting for Jeff who was down below to come up and help me navigate through it. Its one of the only times I've felt fear on the boat. Of course taking our 2.5 hour shits as we have left me to be the one to cruise around Mendicino. We up-anchored at 0600 and by 0900 I was rounding Mendicino. It's funny the weather and seas completely changed once we were near the cape suddenly getting a little foggy with confused seas and wind. But fortunately this time was much different then when we headed north. The fog wasn't too bad with some visibility to about a quarter mile, wind waves were small and only 1-3 foot swells. Much more relaxing then the 10 footers I was up against earlier. This time Jeff stayed in the pilot house the entire time and we gave each other a high five when we had Mendicino astern. Shew! As we got further and further from Mendicino the weather just got better and better. The sun came out the wind disappeared to 2-8mph and we let out a big sigh of relief. Finally after 106.8 miles and 11 hours we arrived at Fort Bragg. We only found out en route this a.m. that they had a slip for us due to the salmon fleet departing. It felt like a very good day. 5:01p.m. we were tied up and completely wipe out.
Early Morning Departure Eureka
Crossing The Elusive Cape Mendocino
Cape Mendocino
Cape Mendocino
Entering Fort Bragg
Noyo Channel Into Fort Bragg
Noyo Channel
Entering Marina
Tied Up at Marina - Our Stern View
The next day a small craft advisory was called for so we stayed put. After the excitement and long day the previous day it felt good to sleep in and decompress a bit. We did some boat chores and blogging and then walked across the bridge to Noyo harbor which is lined with seafood restaurants and a couple of shops. Jeff was determined to have fish for lunch and we found a place with lots of outdoor seating. Since everything on the menu was fish Jeff ate and I watched. It was nice to have a little break from cruising and enjoy Fort Bragg again. On the way back to the marina we stopped at the market for some fresh foods in anticipation of leaving in the morning.
Fort Bragg Marina
Walking into Town
Noyo Harbor
Walking Across the Bridge in the Fog
Noyo Harbor
Bridge an Entry Channel
Evening Fort Bragg
What we thought was going to be a one nighter at Fort Bragg turned into three and then four. The small crafts continued and seas and wind were big. We took another walk this time the opposite way towards the other private marina and explored the woods and surrounding area a bit. It was nice to get some exercise but we were getting anxious to leave. The salmon fleet continued to fish and we had the marina mostly to ourselves. It was quiet and the dockmaster accommodating. We took one last opportunity to get some more fresh foods before finally leaving on the fifth day.
Opposite Side of Fort Bragg Marina
Lodge Across Water from Us
Old Building Fort Bragg
Finally finally at 0643a.m. we were able to leave Fort Bragg. We had a sunny day with 3-7 foot swells and 10mph hour winds. Along with the sun and calm winds and seas we saw 20 different whales underway. They were spectacular and every time we would shout, "spout! tail!" and called out the location. It was incredible. Finally after 12 hours as we were in the entry channel to Bodega Bay we saw a skiff sitting in the middle of the channel. We thought he was probably fishing and commented on what a dumb location it was. As we got closer we realized he was cranking on his motor and was dead in the water. We asked him if he needed help and he said he too was going to the marina and if we could tow him we were welcome to stay at the end of his dock. Not realizing what that meant he threw me a line and I tied off his skiff to our stern cleat. Jeff slowly eased us into the marina where there wasn't an empty slip in sight. I shouted to a fishing boat asking if they could move forward to make room for us. They replied that they would be happy to do that but then showed me there were not cleats a stern of them. The man we were towing shouted that he had room at the end of his dock so we proceeded all the way into the end of the marina where I untied the skiff and the man got off on this fish farm looking contraption that he had mounted to the end of the dock which he offered to us. Desperate what choice did we have? So he hopped onto these metal rails he used as a dock and I threw him our lines to wrap around then hand back to me so I could release them in the morning without leaving the boat. Since it wasn't really a dock we had no power and once secured we fired up the generator to make dinner. What a weird experience.
Finally Leaving Fort Bragg
Sunny Cruising Day
Whales
Whales Tail
Approaching Bodega Bay
Bodega Bay Channel
Setting up Tow
Tying up a Fish Farm Dock
Our Fish Farm Dock
Bodega Bay Marina Stern View
After a short but good nights sleep we were ready to leave the fish farm and at 0629 I threw lines. Again it was a nice sunny day with 1-3 foot swells and 2-8mph winds. Ideal cruising. The cruise today would only be 73 miles to Half Moon Bay and we passed by the Golden Gate bridge and the city of San Francisco. We remembered being stuck in that bay for weeks on the way up and were glad not to be stopping there this time. The whales again swam with us for most of the day and again we counted over 20 different sightings. The marina itself left something to be desired. It was pretty bird pooped out and the side we were on was full of commercial fishing boats with no gate that locked allowing Sunday strollers to come right up to us and the boat. We took an afternoon walk and ended up at the Old Princeton Landing restaurant that our friends Randal and Michelle recommended. It was perfect - lots of outdoor seating some vegan choices for me and a nice seafood curry for Jeff.
Leaving Bodega Bay
Lighthouse Nestled in the Rocks
San Francisco
Golden Gate Bridge
Approaching Half Moon Bay
Half Moon Bay
Approaching Half Moon Bay Marina
Pelicans at Marina Entrance
Fish Processor & Our Stern View
Fishing Boat Getting Towed In
Dinner at Old Princeton Landing
Docked in Half Moon Bay
Fishing Boat Ready to Offload
Two Harolds at Sunset
Evening Half Moon Bay
Some big winds blew in that night stirring up the sea so we stayed put at Half Moon another day. Since there wasn't much to do we took a walk around and found Sam's Chowder House where Jeff wanted to have lunch. There were plenty of seats outside and we got the last one in the shade while the rest of the customers got pummeled with direct sun. No idea why a restaurant wouldn't have umbrellas. Oh well we got our spot in the shade. Jeff had a lobster roll which he said was excellent and I had a portobello sandwich which was also good. We picked up some bananas from the market and walked through some neighborhoods then headed back to the boat to rest and get ready for our departure in the morning to Monterey Bay.
Lunch at Sam's Chowder House
Business in Neighborhood Walk
Aqua duct in Neighborhood
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