After the big blow in Puerto Escondido we were finally on our way. While the wind had subsided the sea was sill settling down as we made the 21 mile journey to Isla Coronados and the south anchorage. The cruise was short with some wind and waves and when we arrived we weren't very impressed. The island was not very picturesque and we didn't see the need to go to shore. Pangas zipped by and shortly after arrival Jeff was already figuring where else we could go instead.
Flock of Sea Birds
Sunsetting Over Loretto
Moonrise
The next morning after breakfast and some discussion we decided to up-anchor and head around the corner to the west anchorage which from the book looked prettier and had a hike we could take. So 4.3 miles later we were dropping the hook in an anchorage full of 6 other boats and 17 pangas on shore. This definitely wasn't the place you come for peace and quiet. Luckily we were able to carve out a little quiet spot to drop anchor. After some lunch we hopped in the dink and made our way towards shore. It wasn't obvious where to go among all the pangas and people swimming in the water. Our first choice we nestled into shore where only a few people were swimming and fewer pangas were anchored. As Jeff began maneuvering the anchor on shore we were worried someone might step on it and injure themselves so we high tailed it out of there and went to a little cove that only had one panga. This was a much better choice but as the couple laying in the cabana eyed us we made sure to stay out of their view of the water and hit the trail immediately so they knew we weren't taking over their spot. The hike started out so lovely the trail was lined with rocks carving out the path. But in true Jeff and Joy style we waited until the hottest part of the day to explore. Me covered head to toe in sun gear was sweating after just a few steps. Nevertheless we proceeded. The trail wound through the island and we wondered when we would start climbing. And just like that we were walking on dried magma leading us up the the mountain. Huffing and puffing we worked our way up the rocks to the first level surface, looked around, snapped a few pictures then headed back down. Hey it's better then doing nothing we figured. The dink stayed in place and we were more then happy to make our way back to the boat and soak in the scene for the rest of the afternoon.
Panga Cruising Bay
Isla Coronados West Anchorage
Mega in the Anchorage
Shore
Dink Anchored
Walking to the Hike
View From Hike
Walking Up the Rocks
Views
Boat From Hike
Our Climb
Me Climbing Rocks
Me on Top of Rock Pile Trail
Trail Back to Boat
Chillin at Anchor
Sunset
Having had our fill of a crowded anchorage and busy shore we up-anchored the next morning at 10:00a.m making the short 20 mile hop north to San Juanico where much to my dissatisfaction we were greeted by 11 other boats anchored here. And as we approached so did another sailboat and it almost felt like we were jockeying for position. We found another power boat and anchored just inside of him and the sailboat proceed ahead of us. Not the quiet spot I had envisioned but it was gorgeous. By the time we got settled in and kept an eye on the anchor to insure we weren't dragging we didn't feel like going to shore. Jeff took a swim and had some beers in the aft deck while I hid from the sun inside and read my book. Everyone was happy.
Approaching San Juanico Anchorage
Our View To Shore at Anchor
San Juanico
Far End of Anchorage
Pelicans on Submerged Rock in Anchorage
Rock in Front of Us in San Juanico
Afternoon
Sailboat Neighbor
Sunset
After a good sleep the next morning we woke up ready to explore. Some of the boats were heading out and momentarily it felt less crowded. We took the dink to shore and set out to hike. There was a short trail we could see from the boat that went up and over the ridge that led to a dirt road. The actual hike was short but we extended it nicely with the dirt road that lead us right back to the beach. The white sand beach was empty except for a woman and her toddler playing in the sand who were also anchored on the shore. We said out hellos as we made our way back to the dink. The temp had risen to 80 and it felt hot. Once again Jeff swam and we played cards and enjoyed the anchorage.
Heading into Shore
Hike on Shore
Big Cactus on the Dirt Road
Beach Walk
Beach Walk
Heading Back Home
Jeff and I both read Steinbeck's Log From the Sea of Cortes and were excited to get to our next destination Santo Domingo the first anchorage in Bahia Conception which Steinbeck references extensively. As we made the 50 mile journey we came along a huge pod of dolphins all swimming frantically in a straight line in pursuit of prey or mating or something. It was an amazing site to witness. Again making us think of Steinbeck and all the thousands of species he studied here in the Sea. As we got closer to our destination we noticed the boat MorningStar on AIS our friends we met at several anchorages down here who are from Seattle. We couldn't believe we were going to the same place they were. What luck. It so funny in boating how you continually run into the same people over and over again all on the same path as you. After we dropped the hook and got settled we took a dingy cruise over to say hello and take a survey of our surroundings. We were all happy to sea each other and catch up since our last encounter.
Big Pile of Dolphins
Cruising Dink Around Santo Domingo Anchorage
Shore
MorningStar, Us & Sailboat Lotus
Old Relics on Shore
Santo Domingo is only good in settled winds and weather and that was all going to change today so we pulled anchor and headed further south into the Bahia Conception to Playa El Burro. We read there were a couple little cantinas here and it was a nice place to stop. As we dropped the hook in 30 feet of water right next to the highway as semi's pushed on their jake brakes making a startling sound I began to wonder what exactly was the appeal here. The thermometer said 84 degrees inside and everywhere around the boat was swarming with bugs. Nevertheless we hopped into the dink and made our way to shore for lunch. Nomadico was not what we were expecting at all. It felt trendy and very hip compared to a lot of the ocean side cantinas we had been to. All the workers were young and cool and spoke perfect english. We sat inside out of the sun in an air condition-less room full of cute decorations and two other patrons using the wifi and hanging out. The waitress was very accommodating when I stated that I was vegan. She made me chilliquiles with lots of vegetables and potatoes "to bulk it up" she said and Jeff had shrimp pasta. By this time the temperature rose to 92 and embarrassingly as we ate we both were sweating. I bought a bag of coffee beans which they roast in the flagship location in Cholula. After lunch we made our way back to the boat and laid around trying to stay cool.
Cruising into Playa El Burro
Shore
Lunch at Nomadico
Nomadico From Outside
Sunset
After a hot rolly night with jake breaks we decided we needed to move along. This time still in Bahia Conception we headed to Playa Santispac to get some good east wind protection. This short hop was only 1.7 miles from Burro. Ever since Jeff was young he heard about the town of Mulege, a famous little Baja town that the guidebooks said was accessible via taxi from our anchorage. Once settled and assured the boat wasn't going anywhere we hopped in the dink and headed to shore to meet our taxi. The driver was super nice and welcoming and gave us the low down about his little town of Mulege including a great restaurant for lunch were he dropped us off. Los Equispalis was charming on the second floor of the building and us and one other Mexican family were the only ones there. Jeff had a lobster feast and they made me a nice salad. After full bellies we walked to the old mission which was situated slightly above town and had great views of the mangroves and the city. As we walked the streets of town we came across a tortillaria which we had to stop into and purchase a couple bags of homemade flour tortillas. We also bought some fresh strawberries from a couple of guys selling them on the street. They were the best strawberries either of us have eaten in a very long time. Unfortunately the museum was closed but we did come across a cute little church we visited. Afterward our cabby told us the best market for produce and we made our way there and did some light provisioning. As we finished the cab driver met us at the check out, loaded our bags and took us back to Santispac. It was a fun day of exploring but we were both very happy once we were back on the boat.
Dink Anchored in Santispac
Lunch at Los Equispalis
Los Equispalis Restaurant
Jeff's Feast
Entrance to Mulege
Walking to the Mission
Lagoon & Mangroves
Mission
Mission
View From the Mission
From the Mission
Old Buildings in Mulege
Inside the Church
The Church
Santispac Anchorage
Sten View
The winds continued to blow and the next day we decided to stay put in Santispac as we were getting good protection. We stayed on board completing some boat projects and just enjoying the anchorage. Tomorrow we would leave Conception and continue our northbound voyage.
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