Tidings of Joy: Vamos a Mexico

Finally Finally Finally we left San Diego after being there for three months. We were both more then ready to carry on boating. Saturday November 26th we threw lines at Jeff Brown Yachts and said goodbye to our homeport as the sun began to rise. Elated was the feeling. I sprung out of bed at 5a.m. giddy to get back to boating again and begin our Mexico adventure. We both worked so hard readying the boat for this day that all we could do now was navigate and look forward to what was to come. The eight hour 47 minute cruise was sunny and uneventful. Pelicans, dolphins and harbor seals took turns greeting us. During one of my shifts I noticed a panga in the distance and crab (probably lobster down here but I call everything crab) pots so I decided to split them giving both ample distance. As I passed the crab pot I noticed a very long greenish thin line hanging from it and probably due to PTSD from almost running over a long line up north I instantly panicked. Jeff told me to throw it into reverse in order to free the line and as I did Jeff told me nothing was caught and I probably just assumed I ran over it. Shew! Heart pumping as we switched shifts and approached the entrance to Marina Coral and Ensenada.

Two dockhands met us at the dock and spoke rapid Spanish to each other and in no time had us secured to the dock and ready to take us up to the office. As we walked along the dock with our papers I noticed the boat SeaVenture from YouTube and we got excited at the possibility of running into them at some point. As we walked towards the office wouldn't you know it Jim and Rosy of SeaVenture we walking out. Jeff shouted, "hey SeaVenture" to them and they stopped and we told them how much we loved their channel and explained how if it wasn't for their advice on their videos we wouldn't have made it to Alaska during Covid. They were more the kind and gracious and even agreed to take a photo with us. Very kind. We told them to stop by our boat anytime and we would love to share a drink with them. Wow! Check in was simple and the office staff friendly and welcoming as always. We made a b-line for the hotel bar to cheers our first stop, old haunt and welcome ourselves to Mexico. The marina office gave us two free drink coupons so we couldn't not go. Margaritas went down like water and it felt like a fun new beginning to our tropical adventure.

Coincidently our friends from our old marina in San Diego - Cabrillo Isle happen to keep their boat at the Marina Coral and we had a plan to meet up on their boat for drinks and dinner. Jose was the very first person we met when we returned to San Diego from the east coat. He recognized our looper flag and came down to help us tie up when we first arrived. Over the years our friendship grew and we love his wife Martha as well. She is woman after my own heart. It was fun seeing them on Pilar then going to a new restaurant close by they knew of. The three of them had a seafood feast which they described as excellent and I had a cheese-less pizza which was surprisingly good. Great friends, food and drinks what else does one need and what a fantastic way to start our journey into Mexico.

Adios Jeff Brown Slip

Crossing into Mexico

Coronado Islands in Mexico

T.J.

Outskirts of Ensenada

Approaching Hotel & Marina Coral

Entering Coral Marina

SeaVenture

Jim & Rosy of SeaVenture

Marina Coral

Our Slip

Welcome Drink at Hotel Bar

Jose & Martha's Boat

Drinks with Jose & Martha

The next morning was Sunday and every Sunday the hotel puts on this wonderful brunch where they roast a goat and have tons of delicious food. After many drinks with friends the previous night a big brunch was just what we needed. We of course stuffed ourselves like pigs all while mentioning the brunch seemed smaller then in years past. The afternoon was spent laying around trying to deflate while we watched american football. After the swelling had gone down we went for a little stroll to the market across the street where we picked up some hot homemade tortillas. Being three days after Thanksgiving I was behind and decided I needed to put up the Christmas tree immediately. We continued watching football into the night and enjoyed the glow of the christmas tree in the background.

Poor Goat

Christmas on the Tidings of Joy

Monday morning we had an appointment to take the marina van to the customs and immigration office to check in and clear our way through Mexico. The marina is so great that for a small fee they handle all of your paperwork for you and give you a ride into to the customs office and do all the communicating in order to clear you through. Its so wonderful and we've been utilizing it for years. We took advantage of our third day at the marina by getting the boat washed, had an o-ring replaced under the sink and just did some basic chores. We took another walk along the boardwalk and tuned into Monday Night Football while we had our dinner. Sometime later maybe around 7pm we heard a knock on the boat and it was Jim and Rosy from SeaVenture. We welcomed them onto the boat and shared some wine and talked about our mutual experiences in Alaska and Puget Sound all the while thinking, "holy shit! SeaVenture is on our boat!" It was a great evening and they were so nice and kind and then invited us the next day to take a tour of their boat which we gladly excepted. Another wonderful day in Ensenada.

Immigration Office

Sunset

SeaVenture Visits Us

The next day we were due to depart Ensenada but the seas and winds were not ideal (8-10 footers and 30mph of winds) so we extended our stay another night. We spent the day installing new security cameras that my parents got us for Christmas. Jeff did most of the work and I assisted. Surprisingly it took us most of the day to get the placement and setup figured out. After our work was done we took another walk knowing once we left Ensenada we weren't sure when we would be off the boat next. A productive and uneventful day.

View from our Walk

Seas calm and winds more typical we threw lines at 0630 and who should be on the dock as we were untying? Jim from SeaVenture came down to say goodbye and see if we needed any help. Very kind. We said our goodbyes and hope we will see them down south somewhere. The sun was shining and the 3-5 foot swells gently picked us up and sat us down. This was our very first time cruising on our own south of Ensenada and we were hyper aware of that fact. Lots of dolphins, seals, pelicans and seagulls joined us on our journey. The fishing fleet was out near Ensenada and then we were all alone. Bahia Colonet anchorage I found using a Panama Posse cruising itinerary. They tend to do more day hops where the CUBAR and HAHA make much longer passages. We arrived to an empty anchorage and were anxious to deploy and try out our new flopper stoppers. This is just what we got them for. The anchorage turned out to be quite rolly but gave us some wind protection. While we waited for other boats to arrive non did and we settled in for a quiet night alone at anchor.

Sunrise Leaving Ensenada

Fishing Boat Outside Ensenada

Passing Rocks

Approaching Bahia Colonet

Approaching Anchorage at Bahia Colonet

Anchored Bahia Colonet

Flopper Stoppers

Sunset

Despite using the flopper stoppers a massive current swished through the anchorage all night and I did not sleep at all and woke up cranky and anxious to leave. By 0800 floppers were brought in and the anchor in the pocket we set off towards San Quintin (not pronounced like the prison but Keen-Teen). Overcast skies and 1-3 foot swells the cruise was smooth and uneventful. Saw a few pangas, pelicans and seabirds and as we approached we noticed two sailboats already anchored there which was a welcome site after being alone in Colonet. We knew we wouldn't see or talk to the people but knowing they were there was somewhat comforting. Hook dropped and floppers out I laid down for a nap. The anchorage was calm and still and sleep came easily. Thursday night football was on and I made diner and hoped for a better nights sleep.

Sunset at San Quintin

We both slept great. The anchorage was calm, peaceful and quiet with little to no rolling. Today was a very big day for us we would start out on our first overnighter of the Baja trip. Having only done one other overnighter before during the loop with two other boats this idea left us both a bit anxious but there was weather coming in and Turtle bay afforded the best protection. Around 1200pm we saw one of the two sailboats passing us on their way out of the anchorage and wondered if we would see them out there. 1230pm and we too up-anchored and headed out into the unknown. The previous night I carefully made a watch schedule that would get us to Turtle Bay. Basically 3 hours on and 3 hours off for 22 hours until we arrived. Jeff starting and ending the trip. The sky was sunny and overcast and as we headed further south we found Talisman on AIS and knew it was the boat from the San Quintin who left right before us. Without communicating we cruised side by side for many hours and into the night. Around 10pm they radioed me letting me know they would be slowing down and cutting behind us to head in. I thanked them for their consideration but was a little sad we would be loosing our cruising buddy. We transitioned into the night uneventfully and had the moon illuminating our way until 1am when it was pitch black. I woke up for my shift at 3:30a.m and was in shock at the blackness. Jeff told me it felt really eerie then proceeded to fall quickly to sleep. I have to be honest I had about 30 minutes of pure panic and keep looking outside to try and see anything which of course I couldn't. Finally after a lot of self talk and reminding myself we had experienced the same thing with the fog heading north to just suck it up there was nothing I could do I got over myself. Some peaceful music through my earbuds and all was well. Despite warning from our friend Chuck, Jeff and I both managed to find kelp to run over near Cedros Island and again were throwing the boat into reverse to loose the unwanted nuisance. Finally after 207 miles and 26 hours (we originally thought it would only be 22) at 2:16pm we dropped the hook and high fived at Turtle Bay.

Sunset En Route to Turtle Bay

Talisman Sailing Next to Us

Night Time Cruising

Morning has Broken - Hurray

Pangas

Passing Little Village

Commercial Fishing Boat

Turtle Bay

Anchored In Turtle Bay

Turtle Bay

Pangas Passing By

After the flopper stoppers were deployed we both hit the couch and crashed hard. We were exhausted. Jeff managed to get sleep during his 3 hour breaks but I did not, constantly being woken by the radio, squeaking chairs and just general unease. After some time we woke up, soaked in our new scenery and made dinner. There were about 5 other boats (all sailboats) also anchored here and we were happy to not have to travel the next day.

Sunset

I slept 12 hours I was so exhausted from no sleep the previous nigh and the anchorage was calm and peaceful. We had a very slow morning staying in pjs late and drinking coffee for a long time. At some point we decided to put on clothes and inflate our new dingy and see the town. The dingy took some effort getting it blown up then launched over the side, ors and seat installed and motor mounted. Finally after a very long time and lots of cursing by Jeff we were on our way. There is no dingy dock in Turtle Bay and the only option is to beach your dingy on shore hence or new inflatable with wheels. This being another first for us we got sideways and a wave launched us onto the beach. I quickly got out and grabbed a line while Jeff deployed the wheels. Shew! Dingy secured we wondered around wondering where it was we were supposed to go. All the buildings looked run down and abandoned. We found ourselves walking through flooded neighborhoods all alone. Eventually we found a little market and went in and bought some tortillas and a bottle of water. Jeff asked the woman working there how to get to town and she directed us. Town consisted of another bigger market and nothing else. Jeff spoke to a man working the meat counter who told us where to find a restaurant which we never found but as we were approaching the beach again a man on a deck of a house said hello and welcome in english and invited us to his bar which is also his home. We sat on the deck and drank a Tecate and spoke to a local couple who were from Spain and Sweden. They were very nice and even offered to share their fish soup with us. After our beer and some shock we made our way back to the mothership. Showers, dinner and early departure in the morning.

Gorgeous Sunrise - Turtle Bay

Commercial Fishing Boat Moored Next to Us

Boat full of Pelicans

New Dingy in the Water

Approaching Turtle Bay

In Front of Enriques Fuel Dock

Beached Dingy

Stray Dogs

Beach Turtle Bay

Town

View From Town

Town

Drinks At House/Bar

Town

Sunset

At 0815 Monday December 5th we set out for our second overnight multi-day journey. This time heading to the anchorage at Bahia Santa Maria which is 268 miles and a 30hour cruise. Heading south we were fortunate to have both following winds and seas providing a surf pushing us along and giving us a boost throughout our journey. Having completed the overnight to Turtle Bay we had more confidence heading into this cruise and already knew which shifts we preferred and which we wanted to avoid. Jeff knows that by 9:30pm he needs to be sleeping so we made the watch schedule accordingly and I took over at that time being more of a night owl then him. After several hours we were in a rhythm and I enjoyed watching Monday night football in the salon while Jeff took his watch. This night the moon rose at 4pm and was with us until 4am illuminating the dark seas and making things seem less intimidating. As I settled into my 3:30 to 6:30am shift I watched the light disappear into total darkness and reminded myself we had already experienced this already en route to Turtle Bay and started a new episode of A Way With Words and sat back and relaxed. Despite the longevity of the cruise it was uneventful and we got through it quiet well and at 2pm Tuesday we were dropping the hook along with 5 other boats in Bahia Santa Maria. And once again I immediately hit the couch and passed out for a long nap.