Today we would set out for what would be our final cruising destination in B.C. - The Gulf Islands. For some reason I never put together that the Gulf Islands in B.C. were right next to the San Juan Islands in the United States and would be very similar. Jeff reminded me that if it wasn't for the boarder they would be one in the same. Makes sense. When we first made our way through the islands and ultimately to Telagraph Hourbour they had a very familiar feel. Low lying, tree lined, some with houses all intertwined creating a boating paradise. Yes, I know this place. Around 11:30am we pulled into Telagraph Harbour to be met by the owner Ron who caught our lines and complimented our boat. We noticed there was another DeFever in the marina as well and asked if it was his. He grinned and said yes. We knew we liked this guy. We invited him on board and he looked around making comparisons and later on that day we did the same on his boat. Really fun when you run into another DeFever which isn't too often for us.
The marina grounds were beautifully landscaped with lush grass and lots of trees providing shade with benches and lovely flowers everywhere. It immediately felt welcoming and comfortable. After check in Jeff got an ice cream and we enjoyed sitting on the porch and soaking in the view. We walked down the road to their honor store which is unmanned and full of baked goods, produce, meats and all kinds of fun stuff. There are bags for sale and it's up to you to leave your money in the box. So cute. Jeff managed to find a blueberry pie and a brownie. Back at the boat we relaxed and watched as other boats slowly starting making their way into the marina. Later that night we lowered the dink and went over to the other marina and had some drinks and dinner at the pub. The patio was large and provided nice shade and a great atmosphere for some cold beers and dinner.
Telegraph Marina
Beautiful Marina Grounds
Sunset
The next morning was the farmers market at Telegraph which coincidently happened to be at the honor store. The market consisted mostly of crafts with some bakes goods. Jeff found a butter tart. We then walked on to a nice hike which was 3 miles long in the woods nearby. The day was hot 80 degrees which brought out lots of bugs. We're still getting used to the idea that we have to spray ourselves down with bug spray in addition to our sunscreen. To cool down after we took the dink through the cut to Calm Bay where lots of boats were anchored and we saw 3 feet of water under the boat. Back at the boat we ran the a.c. and soaked it in. Dinner was provided by the pizza lady who you call and she makes pizza's out of her house then delivers them to the marina. We were told by friends not to miss it. At 6p.m. sharp a pick up truck and a man I assumed was the husband showed up with two pizzas and handed them to me out of the window. So many fun things at Telegraph.
Telegraph Marina
Walking to Farmers Market
Sunset
The next morning it was time to move on. Next on the Gulf Islands agenda was Montague Harbour an anchorage only 17 miles away. When we arrived we were a little overwhelmed by all the boats moored and anchored there. It's been a long time since we been in a packed anchorage and this felt kinda tense. Fortunately the place is so large that it can hold lots of boats and we found a good spot by an Outer Reef and a Fleming that Jeff enjoyed looking at. The place had kinda a Catalina feel to it with the crowds and boats coming and going. We felt in no hurry to leave the boat and spent the afternoon reading and relaxing and enjoying our new scenery.
Beautiful Sunset Montague Harbour
The next day we decided to do a little exploring around Montague. On the opposite side from where we were anchored was a big park with lots of hiking trails. So we dropped the dink and set out to hike. The tails were nice and well marked along with some camping spots as well. It was nice to stretch the legs after not leaving the boat the day before. After we decided to check out the marina a bit. There really wasn't much to see except for a small store and a restaurant. Back on the boat we read and relaxed and waited for the evening when we would go to shore and wait for the free hippie bus to the pub up the road. We made our way about 4:45 to catch the 5pm bus. We wait at the intersection where the website indicated. At 5:05 and no bus and sun pounding us we decided to call the pub and find out about the bus. Well I guess it's a good thing we did because they informed us the bus only ran on the weekends and there was no bus today. Fail. We disappointingly meandered back towards the marina where Jeff suggested we just eat at the restaurant there since we were already out. When we got there we were told there was no dinner service due to staff shortages. Strike two and back to the boat we went. So much for our big night in Montague.
Hike at Montague
View from Trail
Montague Marina
Sunset
The next morning we were heading for what we thought would be the highlight of the Gulf Islands - Ganges. That's all we've heard about is Ganges. You gotta go to Ganges. Blah Blah Blah. When we arrived at the marina there was a lot of wind blowing us off the dock and even though I said we didn't need help a dockhand came down to meet us. Jeff told me to allow him to help us since it was so windy. I threw him the stern line and I went to work on the mid line and the bow. When I looked back after tying this guy was still holding the line in his hand and had not attempted to tie it. With Jeff chirping in my ear and the boat blowing off the dock I finally had to grab the line out of the guys hand and tie it myself. Not sure what his purpose was there but that's the whole reason I prefer no help. Unless it's a nice marina with a team and a plan most of the time it's not worth it. After securing the lines and scratching our heads we came in for some lunch and to regroup. Afterwards we strolled the town which was packed full of people, some tourists, a lot of hippies and some others. We weren't sure what to make of the place. We did find the Tuesday Farmers market where we got some really delicious strawberries and a cup of coffee.
The guidebooks all suggested for a nice dinner walking to the Hastings House. I had made reservations a few days before to make sure we got a table. The walk was short just around the corner towards the other marina. We stopped off at the pub for a pint before making our way up the driveway to the Hasting House. The property was absolutely adorable. It is a series of cottages all surrounding a garden with a stone driveway and views of the harbor. We arrived a little early to do some exploring of the grounds and walked through the garden. Dinner was set in one of the cottages from the 17th century and everything was left in tact. It felt like magic. We were one of 5 tables and everyone spoke so quietly that you could hear a pin drop. Dinner was incredible and we ended the evening with an after dinner drink by the fire outside the main dining area. Just a wonderful evening.
Cruising into Ganges
Ganges Harbour
Hastings House Restaurant
Cat Sleeping in the Greenhouse
Dinner at Hastings House
Jeff's Dinner
Habour View
Drinks By the Fire
Hastings House
Coast Guard Boat Coming into Ganges
One Boat
Two Boats
After being in a busy port for two days we were more then ready for an anchorage. With Canada Day right around the corner we had to do a little research as to where the best place would be. We decided on Port Browning because it was described as large with plenty of room for many boats. And it was. The day was sunny and cool and full of holiday boaters. During my shift I passed four ferries and a local boater got so close to us that our proximity alarm went off. Gotta love the holiday boaters. Eventually around 1pm we dropped the hook in Port Browning and were happy to be out of the traffic and chaos of the weekend. We settled in and read and relaxed for the afternoon. Eventually we dropped the dink and headed into shore to the Pub for dinner. The scene was sweet and wholesome full of families out for the holiday on both boat, camping on the grounds and locals who just drove in for some food and drinks. The patio was large and provided shade and we were very happy at our Canada Day destination.
Cruising to Port Browning
Port Browning Anchorage
Port Browning Anchorage
The Pub - Port Browning
The Pub
Port Browning Grounds
Port Browning Anchorage
Happy Canada Day! We stayed put in Port Browning not knowing what to expect. Would there be fireworks or a parade? All the waitress told us was she didn't know but the pub stayed open till 9. After a nice slow morning we took the dingy through the cut over to Poet's Cove and checked out the resort. The grounds were green and lush and the pool was full of kids. We got a coffee and sat on the deck and took in the scene. It was a beautiful resort but we were ready for more peace and quiet so we headed back to the boat to relax.
Poet's Cove Resort Marina
Dingy Ride Through the Cut
Port Browning
With Canada Day now over and uneventful our thoughts turned to the 4th of July. Was it a thing here? Does anyone do anything? Again we thought over our anchorages since the Canada Day crowd was still out. Our first thought was Winter Harbour which we read can get crowded but had Lyall Harbour in our back pocket as another option since they were right next door to each other. As we cruised we watched a parade of boats both coming and going into Winter Harbour and decided we didn't want to deal with it and could always check it out via dink. As we cruised into Lyall Harbour we saw two deer feeding on the shore and dropped the hook between a sailboat and a cruiser. Only a few boats here and we knew we chose correctly. Later that day we took a dingy ride over to Winter Harbour and took the short hike around the marine park. We sat on a bench near the rapids and watched them crash through for several minutes. The entire hike was beautiful and peaceful. On our way back to the boat we decided to tie up at Lyall Harbour Marina and check it out. We saw the pub and noticed they had live music tonight and decided to return for dinner later. I grabbed a coffee and Jeff got an ice cream and we returned to the boat.
Deer Feeding Lyall Harbour
Lyall Harbour
Lyall Harbour
Patrol Dogs Heading to Winter Harbour
Winter Harbour Hike
Winter Harbour Anchorage
Hike Winter Harbour
Rapids Winter Harbour
Mount Baker in the U.S.
Hiking Winter Harbour
Lyall Harbour Marina
Lyall Harbour
Purple Starfish
Dink at Lyall Harbour
Sunset from the Pub Lyall Harbour
The next day it rained all day and we decided to stay in pjs and read. Jeff made pizza for dinner and it was nice and quiet.
Happy 4th of July! We decided to move on from Lyall Harbour to a marine park at Royal Cove. This marine park is stern tie only because it's small and there isn't enough room for boats to swing. We have never stern tied before despite getting a nice stern wheel put on our boat in Seattle. Not fully committed we decided to go and take a look first and see if we could just anchor outside and not have to stern tie. The park had four boats there when we arrived and we floated and just observed a bit. Stern tie a must we thought about anchoring outside but it was rocky and had no room. I read that Chad Anchorage next door had room for one boat and you didn't have to stern tie. We decided that was the best option for us so we went around the corner with the marine park still in view and dropped the hook. Somehow just as we got anchored in eel grass which took a few times to catch, three ferries went by sending three foot wakes right into Chad and making us roll like crazy. That's it. We aren't doing this. So up the anchor went and we headed back into the marine park. Just as we were a sailboat who we tied opposite the other three sailboats was leaving and we decided his spot could work for us. Here we go! In such a narrow anchorage everyone drops the hook in the middle then backs into the opposite shore to grab either a ring that's been places by the park or a tree trunk to stern tie to. Jeff placed the anchor forward of one of the rings hoping we weren't on the opposite boats anchor and backed to within 10 feet of the shore. He then quickly got into the dingy while I maned (womaned) the helm. With headsets on he told me what to do with the boat while he drove the dink to shore holding it and the stern reel line in his hands, climbing on rocks in order to reach the tree and eventually looping the stern tie around the tree, getting back in the dink and driving back to the boat. It was a very intense and never wracking 10 minutes. All the while questioning ourselves had we done it right. We had no idea but the boat was secure and tied and now we could breath. No wonder why we hadn't done this before. After calming down a bit we took the dink to shore and took a short hike. What a 4th of July.
Stern Tied at Royal Cove Marine Park
Kingfisher on our Line
Royal Cove Marine Park
Hiking Royal Cove
Stern View
Ferrie Passing By
After all of our efforts we decided we should stay a second night. Today we took a longer hike across the island to the other anchorage. It was warm and sunny and exercise felt good. Back at the boat we got some chores done and then spent the majority of the day on the back deck taking in the gorgeous park and listening to the birds. At sunset we saw sea-dogs (seals), eagles, a herron and a kingfisher. It was such a quiet and peaceful place.
Ferries Passing By
Hike to Opposite Side of Island
Royal Cove Marine Park
Evening
Heron in the Tree
Sunset
The next day we planned to go to Genoa but after reading there was nothing there but a marina we changed plans and headed to Cowichan Bay which was supposed to be a cute one street town. The dockmaster was very rude to me on both the phone and radio reprimanding me for calling in too soon which didn't make me feel good about our decision. Cowichan mostly caters to commercial fisherman which was reflected in the attitude of the dockmaster who without saying hello was on the dock to grab our lines. At check in he couldn't be nicer to Jeff and when I stood there quietly he tried to engage with me as well. Whatever. After check in we went for a leg stretch and to scope out the restaurants to see if there was anywhere to eat for dinner. Jeff founds some pastries and I got a coffee and within a few minutes we had seen the town. We walked through a free maritime museum which was one room and some outdoor ships which were closed due to maintenance. Why were we here again? Back at the boat I got some laundry done and Jeff filled the water tanks. None of the restaurants had much on the menu for me so we spent a quiet night on the boat watching the sunset.
Cruising into Cowichan Bay
Cowichan Bay Marina
Town of Cowichan Bay
Cowichan Bay Anchorage
Our Stern View
Sunset
More then ready to leave the fine hospitality of Cowichan Bay at 9:15a.m. on July 7th we threw lines and made our 14 mile journey south to Tod Inlet. We had heard that Tod gets really crowded and to arrive early. We also heard there are fireworks at Tod Inlet via Bouchard Gardens on Saturday night so we wanted to make sure we were in and out before then. The cruise was smooth and uneventful overcast and humid and as we got closer we watched boats coming and going from the inlet. The anchorage was crowded with 20 boats or so but we managed to find a nice spot halfway in with plenty of swing room around us. Later we took the dink to shore in search of a hike which turned out to just be a walk around the perimeter. People sunbathed and swam on the beach and it was fun just to watch all the action. We later took the dink to the Bouchard Gardens dingy dock to scope it out for tomorrow. Jeff talked to someone in the office and they explained what to do tomorrow when we return. It's a great backdoor entrance just for boaters. You ring a bell and someone comes over the intercome to buzz you in and then get your tickets and let you in the back door. So cool. Back at the boat we had happy hour and continued to watch the boats come in and watched all the people on them. The anchorage itself was stunning as well. Surrounded but tall tree line cliffs it was so quiet and calm despite the many boats.
Boom Boat at Cowichan Marina
The Notorious PNW Logs
Bouchard Gardens Anchorage
Tod Inlet Anchorage
Hiking Tod Inlet
Hike Tod Inlet
Tod Inlet
Tod Inlet
Canadian Geese Tod Inlet
Evening Tod Inlet
Today was the big day that we see Bouchard Gardens. Having scoped out the scene yesterday we got into the dingy around 11 and cruised over to the anchorage and tied up at the dingy dock. We buzzed the office and the intercom opened the gate for us and said someone would be down shortly. 5 minutes later they opened our ticket booth took our money and we were in. No lines, no crowds just us two. Amazing. The gardens did not disappoint. The backdoor boater entrance took us right to the Japanese gardens then we made our way through the Italian Gardens and Rose Gardens all before our high tea reservation at the restaurant. I was really excited for this. I used to enjoy going to high tea when we went on cruises and it's been so long. Jeff found out that they even had a vegan high tea for me. We had a nice table on the porch overlooking the gardens affording us shade and a breeze. It was perfect. We both ordered our own teas - mine vegan and Jeff's pescatarian and not a scrap of food was left. What a fun experience. To balance out the bloat we continued walking through the gardens making our way to the sunken garden (my personal favorite) and seeing the rest of the grounds we missed visiting sculptures, totem poles and water features. It was such a nice day. Full, hot and tired we made our way back to the dingy and the boat to rest.
Boater's Ticket Booth
Bouchard Gardens
Italian Gardens
Rose Gardens
Rose Gardens
Hello
High Tea
Path to Sunken Gardens
Sunken Gardens
Waterfall Sunken Gardens
Grounds at Bouchard
Dingy Dock Bouchard Gardens
Tod Inlet
Evening Tod Inlet
The next day was Saturday which meant fireworks which meant we needed to get the hell outta there. At 10:30a.m. we up-anchored and as we headed out the parade of boats was already heading in. Perfect timing. We only went a short 7.5 miles north to Mill Bay which was recommended by friends. The dockhands caught our lines and welcomed us. We got checked in and had some lunch. Jeff cleaned the exterior of the boat and I did some interior cleaning. That night we walked up to the marina restaurant and had dinner. It was packed and the food just so-so. It's always nice to get a night off from cooking so who can complain. Back at the boat we had a couple more drinks and enjoyed the outdoors.
Mill Bay Marina
The next day would be our final stop in the Gulf Islands and our final stop before heading into the big city, Victoria to spend a week with the kids and then make our crossing back into the states. Our three and half month B.C. cruise felt like it was coming to an abrupt end and we felt sad.
The day was overcast and windy and we tried to stay present for our 13 mile cruise to Sidney Spit Marine Park. Although it's just outside of Sidney I wanted to end our cruise at an anchorage and a marine park which have been my favorite places while cruising Canada. The Canada parks systems does such a great job of maintianing their marine parks making sure the trials are well groomed, there is good maintaining and they are just clean and pleasant to be in. Well it would take some time before we got to the peaceful park when we arrived the mooring field was full of boats and rather then take a ball which is super challenging with our high bow we opted to anchor. The field was full of crab pots all along the moorning balls, down the fairway and just everywhere. We couldn't believe the audacity of the fisherman. Somehow we managed to finagle our way between mooring balls and nestled between two crabs pots we got the hook down. The wind was gusting and in my opinion I never felt the hook grab. Jeff thought that it did and frustrated we shut down the engines. The next hour was spent watching crab pots and our proximity to them. We watched as the stern swung within inches of one pot when Jeff finally declared that we were dragging. Or never caught as I would say. So we up-anchored and decided to try for a moorning ball instead. I dug the moorning ball catcher out of the laz and we went to work, me at the helm, Jeff with the grabber giving me instructions over the headset. After our third attempt and Jeff's big tantrum we abandoned the idea of a moorning ball. Instead across the bay we noticed a large group of boaters that were anchored and there were no moorning balls. We headed that way still surrounded by crab pots we dropped the hook yet again. This time no moorning balls around and crab pots at a better distance from us. What an exhausting and stressful day. Both of us were too spent to deal with lowering the dingy for shore and decided to call this place a wash. After some libations and a cooling off period I decided that the next morning if we got up early enough we could lower the dink and enjoy the beautiful park. And that's what we did.
The next morning was sunny and the wind died down and at 8a.m. we were heading to shore to hike. The park was quiet early morning and we didn't see anyone until leaving. Some exercise was just what we needed. Back at the boat we raised the dink and fire up the mains. In true Sidney Spit fashion we weren't done being messed with. This time as the anchored came up I noticed a line that looked like it was wrapped around our chain and noticed the buoy of the surrounding crab pots moving. These fisherman had set a long line set of pots in the anchorage and we had caught one of their lines between pots. Are you kidding me? What ever could they be thinking?! We were left with no choice but to cut their line from our chain. It's the only way we could have gotten out of there. Heart racing we got out of there and non too soon either. What a horrible experience this nice marine park was. I left a scathing active captain review and we set a course for Victoria.
Cruising into Sidney Spit Marine Park
Sidney Spit Marine Park
Sidney Spit
Evening Sidney Spit
Sidney Spit Anchorage
Sunset
Hike at Sidney Spit
Hike
Snagged a Long Line
Pulling A Pot With Anchor Chain
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