Ever since getting to the Pacific Northwest all we heard was The Broughtons The Broughtons you have to go there. We’ve met cruisers who only go here and nowhere else. They spend months at a time cruising this same archipelago and we were very curious to find out why. On our way south last year we saw what looked like hundreds of boats all flocking that way. After peace and quiet in Alaska we weren’t quite sure why. Today we would find out. On May 24th at 12:30p.m. we threw lines at Port McNeil timing slack for Stuart Narrows and may our way to our very first stop in the Broughton’s - Sutherland Bay. For you map lovers out there (Brian) see below, our plan was to do a full survey of the area making our way from east to west getting a glimpse of it all. Sutherland bay was very quiet and peaceful and we fortunately were the only boat there. Our 5:30 arrival was perfect timing for a welcome to the Broughton’s cheers, rain watching and settling in for the night to watch Deadliest Catch. Just us and the sea dogs.
Since we arrived so late in the evening last night we decided to stay a second night in Sutherland Bay so we could get a real feel for the place. We launched the dink and took a long 15 mile ride up Actaeon Sound. The scenery was gorgeous and we felt like we were in the middle of nowhere no seeing another boat or person. While this felt really nice it was also a bit nerve-wracking if we had an issue on the dink. We both were relieved to get back to the boat. We had a leisurely day of reading and rummy cube.
The next day our solitude ended in Turnbull Cove. We made our way again through Stewart Narrows at slack and up and around to Turnbull where we anchored with one other boat. The anchorage is large and we were nicely spread apart so it wasn’t a big deal. There was lots of exploring to do here. First we took the dink to shore and took the lake hike which is 10 minutes straight up hill then back down to this gorgeous lake. It was green and lush and full of fresh bear poop so we were on high alert. After or short and intense hike we took the dink to check out the roaring hole rapids which we chose not to traverse. And of course while we were out it decided to dump rain. It actually felt like hail on the dink - hard white nuggets pelting us in the face. Back to boat for dry clothes and relaxing.
Our plan was to head out the next morning. We went about our departure routine all the way to me standing on the bow read to hose down the anchor when we felt how windy and rainy it was (despite predict wind saying otherwise) and decided to stay another day. Why push it just to sit at another anchorage when this one is perfectly gorgeous. We didn’t do a lot that day - read, played gin and rummy cube, had dinner and watched shows. Tomorrow we would head out.
The next day brought some sun and we made the short 4.5 mile jaunt to Burley Bay where we anchored in front of Blaire Islet. We had lunch and because of our impeccable timing hopped in the dink to explore the head of the bay and Hopetown Passage. No less then 5 minutes into our ride the clouds came in and once again we were getting pelted in the face by rain. We didn’t let it stop us and contained our exploration only to return to the boat once again soaked. I made a hot cup of coffee and get into some dry pajamas. Just as I was taking my first sip the sun came out and we were adorned with a beautiful rainbow. Timing.
After 5 days on the hook we hit our first marina in the Broughton’s - Sullivan Bay Marina. We were told all kinds of stories about the marina’s in the Broughton’s and how they each have their own version of happy hour. Some do pot lucks, some just have a get together but either way boaters are supposed to come prepared to make good apps and join in each night. We were prepared. When we arrived there was one other boat on the dock, a group of guys from Anacortes making their way to Alaska to go fishing. We checked in at the store which consisted of a bunch of empty shelves save for the old canned good from last season. Workers readied docks and the restaurant and we were told everything was closed at least for a few more weeks. No happy hour, no pot luck and no restaurant. Once a premi always a premi. But we didn’t mind. It was fun to be in at our first marina. The floating homes were a familiar site coming from Seattle and we liked being docked next to them. We spent the day close to the store soaking up whatever wifi we could. The wood docks surrounded the marina and made for a nice leg stretch. Back at the boat it was shower day, dinner and a movie.
Our second day at Sullivan Bay we did some boat chores. I did some laundry at the marina laundry mat in order to save our water. They had water here but said they were legally required to tell us that it’s boil only before you drink it. Um no thanks. I took a hardy walk up and down the docks for some exercise as my laundry washed away. We were very entertained by all the swifts flying around and the beautiful sounds they made. The back deck was full of entertainment - birds and a gorgeous sunset. What else do you need in life?
Batteries recharged we were of again. Today only 7 miles around the corner to Greenway Sounds and Cecil Islet anchorage. We were the only boat here which was good since the anchorage is only big enough for a couple of boat. After lunch we took the dink up the bay to Greenway Park and hiked to Broughton Lake. This was our most challenging hike to date. We had to climb across logs and up steep rocky paths. We passed a couple of crew members aboard a fishing boat that assured us the lake was gorgeous and we were almost there. Famous last words. We crossed a logging bridge and after another 15 minutes we arrived at the lake. The bug were abundant but the view was stunning and we were proud of ourselves for making it to the end.
Later in the day we took the dink up Broughton Lagoon which can only be entered at high tide then you have 30 minutes before you have to exit again because the rapids start. Timing has to be perfect. Jeff nailed it and was we entered we saw a black on the shore eating. Inside the lagoon a Dals Porpoise swam right next to the dingy. It was so close I could have reached out and petted it. It was a little unsettled but super excited at the same time. We made our 30 times and headed back to the boat where the amazing animal viewing continued. On shore we spotted a dead seal which of course we super sad but then we saw about 5 vultchures and 4 eagles all jockeying for position to naw at its corpse. It was incredible and something right out of national geographic. We sat with the bionouclous giving the play by play as if watching a sporting event. It was so fascinating. This was now my favorite stop in the Broughtons it had everything- scenery, wildlife, hiking. Amazing.
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