After much debate should we leave or should we stay, thanks to our friends Gary and Liz we found an anchorage just north of Dixon Entrance that would provide good protection from the prevailing winds and the small craft warning. As I threw lines I thought about coming into Ketchikan and into Chuck & Margaret's slip and how excited and giddy we were to be in Alaska and how niece and optimistic we were. Now four months later our journey was over. Fortunately our anchorage for the night Pond Bay on Duke Island was still in Alaska so technically it wasn't quite over yet. The cruise was uneventful 6-7mph winds and 1-3 foot seas. Our 1:30 arrival allowed us time to soak in our last anchorage in Alaska and really enjoy our surroundings. We read and sat outside and got ready for our early a.m. departure in the morning.
Leaving Ketchikan - Cruise Ships in Port
Got Some Fuel
Cruising out of Ketchikan
Pond Bay Anchorage
Sunset Pond Bay
Sunset Pond Bay
At 0600 the anchor was off the bottom and we were on our way. This time we really were leaving Alaska and en route to Prince Rupert, British Columbia to clear customs and spend the night. The eight hour cruise felt long and dreary and I sat with a heavy heart most of the day. Upon arrival the heaviness of the day continued. A fellow boater offered to grab our lines and when I politely said, "no thank you" he proceeded to stand there staring at us which annoyed Jeff then told us we had to move forward or back in our small side tie. For some reason we complied and finally secured the dock master came down to say hello and let us know that he had a medical emergency on another boat and that he had to ask us to move to another slip. Ugh! What could we do? As this was happening Jeff was on hold with customs trying to get our clearance. Of course they answered the phone right when we were asked to leave. We waited as Jeff answered questions about booze and firearms and finally got our clearance number right over the phone. No inspection. Easy enough. We moved the boat to the slip where the dock master waited and grabbed our lines which I had to retie after he was finished. We took a breath then decided to head into town to take a look. Can't say we saw much in Prince Rupert. There was a market and liquor store and a gift shop near the marina. Other then that not a lot was open and you could see the devastation the pandemic and left here. We did have a really nice dinner thanks to Chuck & Margarette's recommendation at The Waterfront restaurant. It was so nice to be out at a restaurant again and feeling semi-normal.
Sunrise Pond Bay
Leaving Pond Bay
Cruising Prince Rupert
Swan in the Clouds
Lighthouse En Route
Entering Prince Rupert
Prince Rupert
Cow Bay Marina - Prince Rupert
City Hall - Prince Rupert
Docks Prince Rupert
Dinner at The Waterfront
Sunset Prince Rupert
Full bellies and a good nights sleep we continued onward south to Nettle Basin. As we were leaving Prince Rupert we saw the boat Tuuli on A.I.S. and Jeff radiod them to say hello. We have been at many anchorages and marina's with them and haven't seen them since Kake. We had a nice conversation and caught up on cruising plans and wished them well. They were headed around the outside while we would stay in the inland protected waters. The 67 mile cruise was nice and we were both looking forward to seeing Nettle Basin again. We remembered it fondly from our cruise north. Once again it didn't disappoint and we found another boat the Phoenician anchored right in front of the waterfall when we arrived. Fortunately there is plenty of space and we dropped the hook right behind them and settled in for the evening. Apparently no pictures were taken.
We unanchored in the dark and with pre-dawn at 0600 we were off for our 9.5 hour day to Bottleneck Inlet. This too was one of our favorites heading north and a must stop in my opinion. Early morning fog burned off and turned to overcast rain. We saw several whales and seals as we cruised. Unlike Nettle we had Bottleneck all to ourselves. We soaked in the view, made dinner, watched some shows and went to bed. We were pooped.
Canadian Coast Guard Boat
Early Morning Fog
Bottleneck Inlet
Bottleneck Inlet
Bottleneck Inlet
We both slept liked rocks. The long passages take a lot out of you. The next morning we had a later departure of 8:15a.m. so we got to sleep in a bit. Jeff found an alternative route that took us through Jackson Narrows which was stunning. Eventually around 3p.m. we were heading into the dock at Shearwater Marina. Two dockhands and the dock master all came to catch lines and welcome us to the native village. Secured and paid up we walked the grounds. Jeff found a naniamo bar at the bakery and we got a beer at the pub. The entire village is made up of a market, bakery and pub/restaurant and a cute little park. Very simple yet nice. After our loop of town and a couple beers we went back to the boat to watch the parade of boat squeeze into the small marina ending with a 120 footer who the dock master rearranging all the boats in order for it to fit. It was the talk of the marina.
Leaving Bottleneck
Jackson Narrows
Jackson Narrows
Lighthouse
Shearwater
Helicopter Leaving Shearwater
Town
Shearwater Marina
Mural in Shearwater
Full Marina
A big blow was coming the next afternoon for a couple of days so we tried to find an anchorage with good protection. Pruth Bay was that place. Although as we made the turn to starboard we began to wonder. It's 6 miles into the head of Pruth and the wind was already starting to pick up whipping the gold looper flag around rather violently. Jeff had heard about Pruth Bay and the active captain ratings were all 5's so I was anxious to see this place. We saw several whales as we cruised Fitz Hughes Sound and it was a boat parade in both directions. I was looking forward to the peace and quiet of an anchorage. When we arrived there were two other boats already anchored but lots of room for us to join. By 1:30p.m the anchor was set and the relaxation began. I wasn't into going to shore just yet so we spent the afternoon reading and napping. Eventually we had happy hour and I made dinner. We watched a movie and just as we were heading to bed the fog rolled in.
Gunboat Passage - Leaving Shearwater
Gunboat Passage
Gunboat Passage
Cruising to Pruth Bay
Whole Tree Floating By
Pruth Bay Anchorage
Pruth Bay
Our View
Pruth Bay
Evening Pruth Bay
Fog Rolling In
Finally after six days of nonstop travel we got to stay put and stay for a second night at Pruth. Thank you weather. I love cruising but after six days of nonstop early morning departures and going all day it gets tiring and it's nice to just keep your pjs on late and not rush out of somewhere. Today was that day. We made pancakes and drank coffee and were in no rush to do anything. Eventually we lowered the dink and made our way to shore to check out the beach hikes that everyone raved about. The day was overcast and we didn't notice any wind in the anchorage. We tied up to the assigned dock and made our way to the beach. The first hike was easy with wide trails mostly flat and ended up at a white sandy and log filled beach. Not a sole in site. From this west beach we made our way to a second trail that let to the north beach. This hike wasn't as simple. We walked across down trees and up steep hills which thankfully had ropes hanging to help yourself up. The hike was pretty and sereen and full of lush green trees. The north beach looked much like the west beach and we were glad we had made the effort. Always nice to stretch your legs and especially at anchor. After our exercise we dinged back to the boat for lunch, cards, reading and naps.
Dinging Into Shore
Pruth Bay - Hakai Research Building
Walk to Shore
Researchers Lodging
West Beach
West Beach
West Beach
West Beach
Hiking to North Beach
North Beach Hike
North Beach
North Beach
North Beach
Hike
Refreshed, rejuvenated and ready to move on we upanchored at 0945 for Millbrook Cove. It was an overcast day and the cruise was fine until the final hour when things got a little rolly with 6 footers on the beam. Needless to say we were glad to be at our anchorage for the night. We shared it with three other boats and longed for our days in Alaska when we had entire anchorages all to ourselves. Jeff keeps reminding me that those days are over and it will only continue to get worse.
Cruising to Millbrook
Millbrook Cove Anchorage
Millbrook Cove Anchorage
Sunset Millbrook Cove
Moonrise
Today was the big day the day we round Cape Caution. Carefully timed for wind and seas we chose today with thoughtful precision. At 0631 I sprayed down the anchor and we made our way as the sun rose. True to the weather reports Caution was no big deal. 3-4 foot swells with little to no wind. The fog came and went helping us practice our radar navigation skills. Again we saw several whales and at 1400 we were greeted by a dockhand at North Island Marina in Port McNeil. We were excited to see that the boat in front of us was a fellow Californian from Santa Barbara and were anxious to talk with them. We threw on the backpack and did the small loop through town. Unfortunately the pub and the distillery were both closed due to it being Monday. After seeing the closed bars and a cafe we made our way to the market for some fresh produce. Tomorrow we would enter Johnstone Strait letting her currents determine our departure time.
Cape Caution
Cape Caution
Port McNeil
Town of Port McNeil
Johnstone had decided that current would be in our favor around 11:30a.m. which afforded us a slow morning and gave time for the fog to burn off. We decided on 30 miles and stopping part way at Port Nevill at Baresides Bay Anchorage would be about all the cruising we would do for the day. Once again it was a boat parade in both directions all through Johnstone. The currents gave us a push and then we headed into the anchorage. Wanting the best scenery possible I urged Jeff to take us to the head of the bay despite the long 40 minute cruise to get there. Once there we both were happy. Beautiful lush green mountain scenery and we had the place to ourselves, a luxury we hadn't been afforded since Bottleneck. I loved it!
Tiding of Joy En Route to Johnstone Strait
Port McNeil Anchorage
Sunset Port McNeil
The next morning due to some winds coming our way we weren't able to listen to Johnstone as when to leave. Instead we told her and we bucked the current going as slow as 4 knots in order to get to Blind Channel at slack tide. All of these cruises are either dictated by currents, weather or tides and you try your best to come up with the best plan based on that. Despite our slow cruise to Blind Channel tying up at the dock was a piece of cake. It reminded me of timing the currents at Petersburg and how we watched plenty of boats slide into the their stalls instead of being driven in. We watched similar things at Blind Channel. Thanks to the slack tide we now were secured at 11:00a.m. with the whole day ahead of us. We would spend the day taking a hike to the old cedar tree which was over 800 years old, walking the grounds, seeing the store and eventually having a nice dinner at the lodge restaurant where they even had a vegan salad on the menu. It was a great day.
Sunrise Port McNeil
View From Blind Channel
Tidings of Joy at Blind Channel Marina
Blind Channel Marina
Old Cedar Tree
Hike
Hike
Blind Channel Marina
Hike
Dinner at Blind Channel Resort
The next day was another early departure due to timing currents through Seymour Narrows. We would finish up Johnstone Strait and pass through the narrows at slack tide. The day was full of rain and fog and once again a parade of boat both pleasure and commercial fishing making their way through Seymour. We attempted to get into Campbell River but since it was so early they told us they didn't know if they had a slip available or not. Deciding not to bother we dropped the hook at 0956am at Gowlland Harbour with a troller, two sail boat and big old scow. Once a favorite heading north we were happy to be done for the day and have a lazy day of reading as the rain fell.
Anchored in Gowlland Harbour
The next day after a long day of loafing around we were ready to be on our way. 0645a.m. and the anchor was in the pocket. False Bay has to be by far my least favorite off all of our Canadian and Alaskan stops. What I hoped for would be a quiet and peaceful anchorage ended up being a mooring field full of local boats with only a tiny bit of room to anchor and two other sailboats had beat us to it. Squeezing in smooshed between moored and anchored boats we dropped the hook and I was not happy. The weather was sunny and 70 which felt weird coming from Alaska. The sun felt like it was searing my skin. We lowered the dink and made our way for the dock. As we approached we could see it was full of local skiffs leaving no room to tie up other then the float plane dock which is a big no-no. Finally not knowing what to do Jeff asked a local who was getting off his skiff. He advised us to tie to the float plane dock saying it's never used. Feeling skeptical about it we eventually gave in and left the boat. Town was odd. People looked at us funny and everyone seemed a bit off. Both of us got a super creepy vibe as if we were not wanted there. We walked up the slight hill and saw some houses then went into the store where Jeff bought a nanaimo bar. Even the store was weird. Instead of leaving things in their original packages like say oreos they were taken out and put into individual zip lock bags. Same with tampons. You couldn't buy a box of tampons only single individually wrapped ones neatly stacked on top of one another. We didn't understand. We counted our losses and dinged back to the boat to stare at the moored boats and plan our departure.
Cruising to False Bay
Cruising to False Bay
Entering False Bay
Cookie Shack
Dock at False Bay
Sunset
Sunset
Almost back to Washington but not wanting to admit it we planned on checking out the town of Nanaimo that other then the yummy bars we really didn't know much about. Now that Canada is open to U.S. citizens we were glad to be making more marina stops and seeing Canada. The 33 mile cruise was warm and sunny and we felt happy to be given a slip at the City Docks right in town. They have all these weird policies that make it difficult to make a reservation leaving you hoping for a slip as you arrive. Luckily they had space and we tied up behind a large blue boat with several other cruiser on the dock as well. We put on our walking shoes and set out to explore. The harbor office was nice and the harbor walk went for four miles all along the waterway. We found a beautiful park and even a restaurant offering vegan selections for me. The town has a small feel despite the 90,000 citizens. Jeff of course got more nanaimo bars and we hit the market on the way back for more fresh produce.
Cruising into Nanaimo
Downtown Nanaimo
Me & Tina
Nanaimo
Nanaimo
Nanaimo
Park in Nanaimo
Nanaimo City Dock
Courthouse Nanaimo
Sunset Nanaimo
Big winds 25-40mph were due to hit and we managed to stay another night at the city docks. We slept in late and hung in pjs till almost noon when we finally got dressed and headed out. Today we walked the harbor walk all the way down to the yacht club and some other marinas to check them out. Afterwards we walked slowly through the park and listened to a man playing an accordion and watched the people stroll by. Jeff saw a fish and chips place he wanted to try so we went there on our way back to the boat. It was weird to say the least but at least his lunch was good. Back at the boat we talked with some neighbors and got ready for the next days departure.
Sunset Nanaimo
Dodd Narrows would be our final navigational challenge heading south to Washington and a 10:20a.m. departure put us right at slack tide at Dodd. The parade continued and we found ourselves in a line with three other sailboats who Jeff frustratingly wanted to get around the entire time. He called our Security call as we entered Dodd and the slack tide was no big deal. As we exited Jeff cranked the rpm's and we ditched the sailboats. A sad feeling came over me as we decided on Sidney as our destination. Now more then ever we were only one day away from Washington and the San Juan Islands and our Alaskan adventure was over. Four months just to come full circle and be right back in Sidney Harbor where we anxiously entered in April wondering if customs would let us through despite the boarder being closed. I took a pause and sighed as I tied the lines at Port Sidney Marina. We were back weather or not we were in the states or not.
Leaving Nanaimo
Entering Dodd Narrows
Woodchips
Log Boom
Port Sidney Marina
Downtown Sidney
Downtown Sidney
No comments:
Post a Comment