Glacier Bay National Park

 New generator installed and we finally left Juneau. We made the eight and a half hour journey 77 miles to Hoonah Harbor which we both were looking forward to visiting. The sun was shining and it was so great to be cruising again. We saw three humpbacks, a seal and some otters en route. When we arrived in Hoonah we quickly tied up and set out to explore. We wanted to visit The Office which is the famous bar there and see what else was going on. Hoonah is the largest Tingit settlement in Southeast Alaska. As we made our way down the road we were a little disappointed that everything was closed excepted the little grocery store/gas station. 

Finally Leaving Juneau

Cruise to Hoonah

Passing Mendenhall Glacier

Entering Hoonah

Hoonah Harbor

Top of Docks in Hoonah

Native Boats & Totem 

The Closed Office Bar

Despite our disappointment with Hoonah we woke up the next day excited to head into Glacier Bay National Park and start exploring. Unlike just about everything else boating we had to make reservations months in advance for Glacier Bay Park because they limit the number of boats to about 20-25 and you have to get a permit and watch a video in advance of entering the park. We did pretty good. Of our 10 day reservation we were only late by two days due to our generator issue in Juneau. The cruise was easy only 35 miles to Bartlett Cove where the ranger station is and where we would check in and then stay for the night. As you enter Glacier Bay you first have to radio the rangers and let them know that you entered the park, your permit number and your boat name. From here you are free to roam the park. We decided instead to spend the night and explore the lodge and the walking trail by the lodge. We planned to tie up at their free dock but a big fat local cruise ship was hogging the entire dock so we anchored and dingied in instead. The trials were well maintained and everything was lush and green. Their were whale bones and a native community center we saw too. The lodge was what you would expect of a lodge - lots of wood, dark and had a restaurant and a gift shop. We wanted to eat in the restaurant but were told that it was for lodge guests only due to staffing. After soaking up some free wifi we made our way back to the boat to make our plan for the morning. 

Glacier Park Map

View into Bartlett Cove

Anchored in Bartlett Cove

Whale Bones

The Lodge

Anchorage Bartlett Cove

Native Community House

Trails Bartlett Cove

We were very fortunate that when we were in Petersburg we met a nice couple on a DeFever (same as ours) who frequent Glacier Bay and gave us a nice overall plan on how to see everything in the park. They told us good places to cruise by and what animals to see there and also good anchorages and where we would base ourselves out of to come and go from the Glaciers. Great information and we were lucky to meet them. 

We woke up to gorgeous sunny skies and at 9:54a.m. we up anchored and headed to South Marble Island to look for puffins. When we arrived boy were we excited. Seals sunbathed on the rocks while others swam enthusiastically towards the boat to greet us. Otters floated by on their backs eating muscles and finally after rounding the corner to the backside of the island we saw the elusive puffins. 8-10 of them swam around together, blonde pigtail like hair hung on either side of the backs of their heads and their prominate orange beak curved down towards the water as they swam.  We were in animal heaven. We put the boat in neutral and just sat and watched he best nature show. 

After about an hour of watching and gawking we made our way to our anchorage - North Sandy Cove, which we had all to ourselves and spent the rest of the day reading and taking in the beauty. 

Cruising up Glacier Bay

Sunbathing Seals

South Marble Island

Sunbathing Seals

Lots of Seals

Puffins Swimming 

South Marble Island

Cruising Glacier Bay

En Route to Anchorage

Entering North Sandy Cove

North Sandy Cove

North Sandy Cove

North Sandy Cove

Sunset North Sandy Cove

The next morning we made our 9a.m. departure to head up to see our first glaciers - Muir and Riggs Glacier. The day was a little overcast and drizzly and were cruised with two other boats to the glaciers. Due to whales and pupping activities in the park motorized vessels such as ours are limited where were could go. The glaciers were the first restrictions that we experiences. There was a line which we learned about in park video we had to watch which we couldn't cross today. So because of this we were only able to see Riggs Glacier and Muir. Regardless of the restrictions Riggs Glacier did not disappoint. We made a long slow loop gazing at it and taking our time while we could see it. The other two boats there did the same thing. After about an hours we headed back to the same anchorage in order to get set up for the next day.  

Cruising up to Riggs & Muir Glacier

Green Glacier Water

Tour Boat in Glacier Bay

Riggs Glacier

Riggs Glacier

Riggs Glacier

Riggs Glacier

Stern View of Riggs

The next morning we continued on our program that our DeFever friends had so well laid out for us. We cruised by Sebree Cove, Tidal Inlet and Gloomy Knob where we saw mountain goats and a brown bear. Underway we saw a pod of whales, otter and seals. As the day progressed it got pretty windy so we decided to head into our anchorage for the night - Reid Inlet which had it's own glacier at the head of the bay. It was absolutely amazing to be able to anchor so close the glacier and always have it in view as the boat swung around. 

Seebree Cove

Tidal Inlet

Tidal Inlet

Gloomy Knob

En Rout to Anchorage

Reid Inlet Anchorage 

Reid Inlet Anchorage

Reid Inlet Anchorage

Reid Glacier at Reid Inlet

Reid Inlet

The next morning we had three glaciers to check out: Lamplough, John's Hopkins and Margerie. Because of good positioning in Ried Inlet the ride to Lamplough Glacier was not that far and before we knew it we were right in front of the glacier. It was mind-blowing how close we could get and once in position we turned off the engines and just took it all in. 

Cruising to Lamplough Glacier 

Cruising to Lamplough

Lamplough Glacier

Lamplough

Lamplough

Lamplough

Glacier Viewing

Lamplough

Green Glacier Water 

Lampough

After lingering around for an hour or so we continued on to see the other two glaciers - Margerie and John Hopkins. Once again these two glaciers did not disappoint. The boat got close and we stared. What an amazing place to be boating. 

Glacier Ice for Cocktails 

Heading Back to Anchorage 

Because it was still early-ish we decided to take the dink to the head of the anchorage and check out our final glacier - Reid. Jeff of course had to go fast which I always protest but finally we made it to close to the head of the bay and anchored the dingy and made our way over the rocks and water and walked as close as we could get to Reid Glacier. 

Dingy Anchored - Reid Inlet

Reid Glacier

Reid Glacier

Reid Glacier

Reid Anchorage

After wonderful days of glacier viewing we had to start making our way south in order to exit by the end of our permit. Our next anchorage was Shag Cove which was my favorite of the entire park. Gorgeous free fjords lined the anchorage and not since Ford's Terror had we had such an amazing spot. We cruised the dingy over to the other cove and en route saw a brown bear eating grass. Just as we returned to the boat the rain started and the fog rolled in. We made dinner and settled in for the night. 

Brown Bear

Dingy Ride

Anchored in Shag Cove

Entering Shag Cove

Shag Cove

Shag Cove

Fog Rolling In Shag

Fortunately we didn't have to go anywhere the next day so we spent a second day and night in Shag Cove. The rain and fog continued and spent the entire day in pjs. It was really nice not to have to travel after a week of getting up and moving every single day. We watched the original Rocky and relaxed. 

The next morning we needed to get to our final anchorage of Glacier Bay - Fingers Cove in order to time the currents in the narrows to exit the next morning. The short cruise was only 13 miles long which allowed us to dingy to shore and stretch our legs a little bit. We read and relaxed and went to bed early for our early a.m. departure out of Glacier Bay. 

North Fingers Bay

Dingy and Boat in Fingers Bay