Tidings of Joy: July 2021

After saying goodbye to our friends in Sitka we set out on our own to explore and start seeing some of the many touristy type places we had been reading about and watching YouTubes of the last couple of years. Deciding traveling around the outside wouldn't be as scenic as taking the inner route we set out through Sergius Narrows en route to Peril Strait. We stopped in Whitestone Cove for lunch and to let the current change to our favor and then went to Baby Bear Bay to anchor for the night. It was a quiet anchorage with only us and one other boat. Before leaving we saw a deer eating grass.

Deer in Baby Ber Bay

Baby Bear Bay

The next morning we work up ready to head on. We cruised Peril Strait and anchored in Appleton Cove with one other boat. We saw several whales en route and when we arrived we lowered the dink and set out to explore the cabin on shore and look for wildlife. Alaska is so great in that around varies parts of the state they have these cabins that are open for anyone to use and they consists of a couple of bunks, a dinning room table and little kitchen area and a stove for heat. You just show up and it's yours to use free of charge.

Cruising to Appleton Cove

Whale's Tail

Cabin at Appleton Cove

Appleton Cove

Cabin

Anchored in Appleton Cove

The next morning we set out early for Tenakee Springs a stop we have been hearing about since we arrived in Alaska. Some of our friends actually met each other at the dock here and told us just what a special place it was. Well, they did not exaggerate. As we cruised more whales swam by and we were lucky to find a place on the dock in Tenakee behind a fishing boat. We strolled through the boardwalk town but realized that we were too late to go to the store which is only opened from 12-2 daily and the museum which is only open on the weekends so we decided to stay a second night. Already we could tell the town was cute and charming and we were happy to be here. The town has a natural hot spring which is indoors and there are mens and women's hours and clothing is not optional. Jeff peeked in just to see while I waited outside. We watched a seaplane land with the town's amazon supplies and then the bigger items were delivered via tractor around town.

Amazon Delivery Via Sea Plane

Cruising into Tenakee Springs

Tenakee Springs

Dock at Tenakee Springs

Walking to Town

Docked at Tanakee Springs

Tenakee Springs

Cool Staircase

Tenakee Springs

Community Free Books

Museum

Hot Springs

Post Office

Tenakee Springs

After a slow morning and before walking into town we saw a new boat coming in and Jeff jumped up and offered to grab their lines. After looking a little closer we saw that they were from Seattle and Jeff chatted with them a bit before we walked into town. Our first stop was the mercantile to scope out the goods. Mostly just a small grocery and liquor store. We also made it to the museum and the lady working their gave us lots of good information and we really felt like we learned some interesting Tenakee Springs history. We continued walking towards the end of town and explore what we missed the day before and as we were walking back Jeff noticed the Seattle boaters walking in front of us. Stoping to say hello and introduce myself they mentioned they were having happy hour at 5 and would we care to join them. Glad to be around fellow Seattleites we happily accepted. After a couple of hours, wine and snacks we said goodbye to our neighbors and returned home to make dinner and prepare for the next days voyage.

Tenakee Springs

Free Phone at Top of Ramp

Tenakee Springs

Mercantile

Museum

Seattle Neighbors

The next morning we started our slow journey south down Chatham Sound and to our first stop Ell Cove. The cruising was uneventful and as we saw the waterfall at the entrance we knew we had arrived. Ell Cove was gorgeous and for most of the day we had it all to ourselves. Around 7pm a small cruiser came in and the two of us enjoyed the stunning scenery and all the fish jumping.

Eagles in Ell Cove

Entering Ell Cove

Ell Cove

Anchored in Ell Cove

Ell Cove

I could have stayed many many days at Ell but some weather was blowing in and it was either leave the next day or be stuck there for several more which Jeff didn't want to do. Our cruise would be our shortest of our Alaska trip only 1.5 hour to Warm Springs a place with a dock and natural hot springs both outdoor and indoor. We have watched many videos about this place and were anxious to get there early and hopefully get a spot on the dock. Unfortunately 10:30a.m. was not early enough and we were forced to anchor out and dingy in. Much to our surprise the anchorage was gorgeous and for the moment we had it all to ourselves. We quickly lowered the dink and made our way into Warm Springs and tied up at the dingy dock. The dock was hectic and packed with boats and people and we decided that we liked our anchorage so much better and were happy not to be docked here in the chaos. We leisurely strolled to the waterfall and along the wooden path to the lake and then eventually to the hot springs. Jeff plunged right in but I was only able to get in to my knees because it was so bloody hot. We were both proud that we at least tried it despite the slime and grossness that comes with natural hot springs.

Cruising into Warm Springs

Anchorage Warm Springs

Anchored in Warm Springs

Warm Springs

Waterfall Warm Springs

Cabins Sliding Warm Springs

Dock at Warm Springs

Town of Warm Springs

Waterfall

Walking to Lake & Hot Springs

Wood Path

Lake

Lake at Warm Springs

Path to Hot Springs

Natural Hot Springs

Walk Back

Dingy Ride to Anchorage

Other Boats in Anchorage

View at Anchorage

The next day it was windy and poured most of the day and we were happy we were in such a great place to ride out the weather and much to our surprise we got a visit from a brown bear who came out to eat grass. We would spend in pj's reading and watching the bear. What could be better? Later that day a boat who we have seen at several of our stops called Moondoggie showed up. We were excited to see them and couldn't believe we were at yet another stop together. After some time Moondoogie dinged over and say hi and brought us a bottle of wine. It was so nice of them. We discussed future cruising plans and hoped we would see each other again.

Brown Bear Warm Springs

Bear

Moondoogie

Bear So Close to Boat

Today our peaceful solitude would come to an end. Little did we know that Red Bluff Bay was a major tourist stop. Apparently all of the stops on Chatham Sound are. When we arrived we passed another gorgeous waterfall and found two boats in the anchorage. One where we would have liked to be and another one tied to a submerged stick. As the day went on thing the boats and seaplanes continued to come in. At one point a seaplane came twice to the boat tied to the stick and then three large (over 100 feet) boats came in an anchored. While Jeff loved the action and seeing the boat I felt a little smooshed. We took the dink out and checked out the waterfall upclose and eyed some of the big boat eventually ending up back on the boat reading and making dinner.

Red Bluff Bay

Waterfall at Red Bluff

Seaplane Dropping of Passengers

Old Cannery Red Bluff Bay

Waterfall by Dingy

Red Bluff Bay Anchorage

Seaplane Dropping of More Passengers

Happy to be departing we continued our way south down Chatham Sound to Little Port Walter the home of a NOAA hatchery. At first I viewed this as an eye sore in the anchorage but after meeting one of the biologist who works there and explained the entire operation to us I liked it even better. Since the 1970's this Chinook (pronounced Sh-nook) hatchery has been in operation tracking the population. Here the salmon are implanted with a metallic chip which helps the scientist track them. They leave the area for about 4-7 years and then return. Here the scientist can make sure the population is sustained and not overfished and also study the mating and spewing habits. Pretty interesting work. After a nice discussion with Jordan the biologist we cruised the dingy to Port Walter around the corner and saw the waterfall and old cannery and took in the all the gorgeous green trees. On our way back we spotted Jordon in his skiff who called us over to point out this egg like jelly fish he spotted. After some more conversation we headed back to the boat.

Entering Little Port Walter

NOAA Housing Little Port Walter

NOAA Hatchery

Chinook Salmon

Fish Ladder

Old Cannery

Cannery Docks & Waterfall

Eggy Jelly Fish

Jordan on his Skiff

Little Port Walter Anchorage

The next day the wind and rain returned. Our next stop would further south down Chatham and the weather just wasn't going to be pleasant for that so we decided to stay a second night in Little Port Walter. We didn't do a whole lot except read and watch the rain.

The wind had died down but rain hung around so we headed out for our 12 mile journey south to Port Alexander. This is another town with a dock and if you don't get a spot you better have a back up plan because there is no anchorage in the bay. We were fortunate enough to get the last spot on the dock after some thoughtful fisherman pulled their boat forward making room for us. We put on our rain gear and headed out to stretch our legs. It has been 5 days since we had been on land and we were ready to walk. The town was another charming boardwalk town with a store and a post office and not much else. The store was super cute. It's a shed that's next to a house with a doorbell on it. You ring the bell then someone from the house walks over and opens the store for you. It was mostly junk food but we enjoyed the experience. We strolled the rest of the town and met a man from Sitka who was also visiting. After a proper leg stretch we returned to the boat to read and watch the rain.

Port Alexander

Pa's Little Store Sign

Post Office

Boardwalk Path Through Town

The Store is the Building on the Right

Port Alexander was so cute and charming we decided to stay a second day and boy were we glad we did. The sun came out and the temperature went up to around 60 and it was a gorgeous day. Today we walked the opposite way from town out to the entrance of the bay along rocks with stunning views of Chatham and the surrounding area. We also found short nature path we explored and enjoyed seeing all the trees and plants. Later that day on the boat we watched the local amazon delivery be taken from a supply ship to a skiff for distribution. So fascinating.

Port Alexander

Lodge at Port Alexander

Chicken at Lodge

Path out of Town

Rocky Walk

Inlet

Nature Trail

Amazon Delivery

After two special days at Port Alexander it was time to cross Chatham Sound and head east before making our way north. The 18 mile cruise was calm and overcast and the mud bay anchorage nice but not spectacular like others we had been in. We took a dingy ride just in time for huge down pour and got drenched while we barreled around the bay. Another small fishing boat joined us in the anchorage and we made dinner and settled in for the night.

Mud Bay Anchorage

Mud Bay

Boat in Mud Bay

Since arriving in Alaska our friends Chuck and Margarett having been telling us we have to go to Bay of Pillars. They said there is a man who owns a lodge there and he will give us a tour. They even gave us his phone number. We tried calling for Port Alexander with no success. Nonetheless we followed their advice and headed into Bay of Pillars not really knowing what to expect. As we entered the bay we were immediacy hailed on the radio, "Tiding of Joy, Tidings of Joy this is Good Times." Jeff answered as he drove and we found out it was Alan from the lodge inviting us over for a tour. We happily excited and after anchoring and having some lunch took the dink over to his dock. Juneau his adorable golden retriever was the first to greet us followed by Alan. He explained he had built the lodge with some friends in hopes it would be a place for veterans to come and spend some time in nature. Unfortunately the V.A. didn't see it that way and his idea was shut down. He owns the homestead and continues to live there with Juneau and welcomes the public to tour the old cannery ruins and his lodge. The walk around the cannery with Juneau was interesting but all the otter skulls and bones the natives had left behind was not. After our walk Alan invited us into his lodge and home and showed us all the fine craftsmanship and his his friends put into the place. It was stunning and we were very impressed. When it was time to say goodbye Alan generously offered Jeff some fresh (from this morning) caught salmon and halibut. Jeff was ecstatic. He's been trying to find some local fish. Saying goodbye to Juneau and Alan and with fish in tow we made our way back to the boat.

Whale

Lodge at Bay of Pillars

Bay of Pillars Homestead

Old Cannery Bay of Pillars

Otter Bones

Creek at Bay of Pillars

Bay of Pillars

Walking with Juneau

Old Cannery

Eagle at Bay of Pillars

Alan at his Lodge

Lots of Fish

Bay of Pillars Anchorage

Sunset Bay of Pillars

Tidings of Joy Anchored

Sunset

The next morning we had planned to make our final run north in Chatham Sounds but the sound had other plans for us. The night before there was a big blow that had stopped by morning unfortunately Chatham had not calmed down and about 20 minutes into our ride and getting tossed around like a washing machine I found us an alternate anchorage that was right near by called Rowan. The minute we turned the corner into the anchorage the water laid down and we happily sitting still. Even though it was only 10:30a.m. we knew we had made the right call. It wasn't as if the boat our us couldn't take the seas it was just of a matter of why would we. Happily nestled in our anchorage out of the washing machine we settled in the for the day. At some point we took a dingy ride around the bay then returned to the boat. The next day should be much calmer.

We were both looking forward to our next stop - Kake a native village we have read a lot about. As we pulled into a transient slip and then walked to town we noticed how nice and friendly everybody was. They either said hello or waved as they drove by. The walk to town about about 2.5 miles and there wasn't a whole lot their other then a market, liquor store and post office.We were fortunately enough during our walk to cross over a stream filled with spewing salmon and eagles and at the last second we spotted two black bears catching salmon and eating it. It was an amazing site and watched for a long time in awe. On our way back to the boat we stopped by the market for some fresh food and fill in items. We both carried a couple bags as we walked along the street when a nice native guy spotted us, rolled down the window and asked if we wanted a ride back to the harbor. Arm and fingerer aching I spoke for both of us and gladly accepted. We piled into the back seat of his truck glad for the local hospitality. He introduced himself and asked us where we were from. So nice and kind I couldn't get over it. Dropping at the top of the ramp we retuned to the boat glad to be home.

Eagles Heading into Kake

Kake Harbor

Walking Kake

Town

Kake

Salmon Spawning

Bear Feeding on Salmon

Watching weather and trying to time our passage through Rocky pass we stayed in Kake a second night. We took another shorter walk and trip planned. Rocky Pass would be the next day and it needed to be timed just right arriving at high tide halfway through. Deciding the weather south of Rocky Pass wasn't good to do the transit in one day we decided to make it halfway through and anchor for the night and tackle the second half the following day allowing ourselves to exit in calmer seas into Sumner Strait.

Of course we woke up to fog and rain and debated weather we should attempted it or not in this weather. Finally a little clearing came and threw lines. Jeff warned me if it was too foggy in Rocky Pass we would bail and return to Kake. Fortunately we had good visibility by the time we arrived at the entrance and saw no less then 17 feet in the first half of the pass. Jeff made a great route and knew exactly where to go despite missing red and green markers and before we knew it we were anchored in Bidarka or Halfway There Bay.

Halfway There Bay

In order to time high tide at Devils Elbow we couldn't up anchor until 1:15pm the next day which meant a nice slow morning which I love. Even so the tension was high and I knew Jeff was eager to finish Rocky Pass. I think we have gotten to used to deep water ocean causing and don't enjoy seeing 13 feet under our keel. Something about it is super unsettling. Jeff navigated beautifully and before we knew it we were exiting the pass and back into 200-500 feet of water. Much more relaxed. We made our way to Port Baker and once again the dock was full of fishing boats and there was no where to anchor. Fortunately again we had a back up plan and continued our way down across Sumner Strait to Merrifield Bay. It was empty and open to the Strait but forunatly the water was glass and no wind to speak of so we dropped the hook. Several other boats must of have tried Port Baker because as the evening went out a sailboat- Toulii who we have been at several locations with and three fishing boats arrived. One fisherman informed us that gill net fishing season opened the following day at noon which explained all the fishing boats at Port Baker. We were happy to have a good anchorage for the night and looked forward to heading back to Wrangell in the morning and for the upcoming visit of Sampson & Josh in a couple days.