After five productive days at Ketchikan we headed out en route to the Misty Fiords National Monument. I found it bizarre that this enormous chunk of land was called a monument instead of a park but what do I know?! It was a sunny cold 34 degree morning as we left and we were both anxious to start exploring. We headed south and then around the corner and entered the Behm Canal which would be our main waterway while we explored the Fiords. When we entered the canal the fiords were spectacular. Beautiful evergreen lined mountains which were snowy on top and lush green on the bottom enclosed our route. We were in awe. We passed several waterfalls rushing with snowmelt from the top. When we arrived in Punchbowl Cove we were happy to find the one mooring ball empty and ours for the taking. Jeff used his new mooring ball grabber while giving me maneuvering instructions over the headsets. Once hooked we settled in to digest all of this pristine scenery.
The next day we slept in and enjoyed a leisurely morning on the boat. We decided we were going to lower the dink and attempt the punchbowl lake trail which the guidebooks all describe as a scramble more then a hike. The trail hasn't been maintained in years and it's a hike it your own risk situation. Nevertheless we set out to explore. We timed the tides as best we could so as not to get stranded if the tide came up too high and we couldn't get back to the dingy. The trail could only be described in one word - treacherous. Even in hiking books and rain books we were slipping and sliding all over the place. I got stuck in a mud hole and almost fell several times. There were broken logs everywhere, uneven surfaces that were extra slick with mud and finally a mud sheen covering some boulders going straight up where we decided to turn around. Even going down took forever because we had to go so slow as not to tumble all the way down. At one point Jeff grabbed a walking stick that we both shared in order to climb down these steep slick areas. It was not fun. We were both disappointed that we didn't make it to the lake but so happy to be off that horrible trail. Before heading back to the boat we dinged over to see the creek and took a spin around the anchorage. Back on the boat we were so happy. So much for our big adventure.
Morning at Punchbowl
After a wonderful first stop in the Misty Fiords it was time to move on. We got an 8a.m. start to make our way to Walker Cove and then Fitzgibbon Cove where we would anchor for the night. Once again it was sunny and gorgeous for our cruise. We made our way along the Behm Canal passing lots of logs in the water and also lots of waterfalls as we entered Walker Cove. It was stunning. We just kept saying, "there's a waterfall, there's another one, and another one." Tall steep mountains lined the entrances and surrounded Walker. There too was a morning ball but we decided just to take a look around and keep going. As we got to Fitzgibbon we agreed it was beautiful but nothing compared to Walker and maybe we should have stayed there instead. Oh well. We got the best of both. Arriving around 2:30pm we spent the rest of the day and evening just soaking in the view.
Cruising the Behm Canal
Behm Canal
For the first time since making our way to Alaska we had some weather coming in. We made the decision to get to our next anchorage Yes Bay and to hunker down there for the next three days to wait out the wind. We woke up to rain and it continued the entire day. Fortunately Yes Bay was only three hours away and we arrived at noon and settled in for the day. Coming in we passed the Yes Bay Lodge and to our surprise as we turned the corner to the anchorage we saw a makeshift log dock at the head of the bay which had several smaller boats on it. As much as we wanted to tuck in, the dock wouldn't allow us. We found a nice spot and settled in to read and watch the rain the rest of the day.
Rainy Day Underway
The rain continued overnight and through the next morning. We were fortunate enough to get a break from the rain after breakfast and quickly lowered the dingy to head to the lodge and explore. We weren't sure if the lodge would be open since it was only April but noticed several boats docked in front. The docks were not very nice with large nails sticking out of the few open spaces. It was kinda eerie walking up the lodge with nobody around. Jeff kept calling, "hello, hello" over and over announcing our presence as we walked around. There was one tiny path that led underneath the lodge and around the grounds. After several of Jeff's "hello" calls we got a response from a barking dog in the distance. Not sure what to make of it Jeff said we had better turn around. It's a good thing because next thing you know that barking dog was right behind us barking loudly and getting closer and closer. Jeff tried talking calmly to it as we quickened our pace back towards the boat. The dog did not give up. It barked and walked with us the entire way standing at attention at the ramp until we untied and motored away. I was a little rattled from that and was waiting for someone to come out with a shot gun. Fortunately back on the dingy we were safe. We puttered around a little more before making our way back to the boat. We raised the dingy and got her secured just in time for the rain to start right where it left off. Another rainy afternoon of reading and relaxing.
Path Around the Lodge
Yes Bay
Finally after a third day at Yes Bay waiting out the winds we were able to leave. The rain stayed with us as we up-anchored around 9a.m. Today we would make our way to Naha Bay and tie up at the public float. The cruise was super nerve wracking with tons of logs and debris in the water that it took both of us watching the entire cruise in order to avoid everything. Not a great way to cruise. We were so happy and relived once we reached Naha to be off the water and away from all the hazards. We tied up at the dock and had some lunch before heading out to walk the trail. Sometime during our lunch another boat pulled up and Jeff went outside to say hello. When he came in he told me we might have problem and that the people informed him that when their friends stayed overnight on this dock that their boat got hundreds of mice on it from the slope. Great! They told us we could put tin foil on our lines to prevent them crawling up and it should work. What?! Mice! I hate rodents and knew if I had seen even one I would freak out. There were a couple of options for anchoring in the basin but we were so happy to be on dock and able to get on and off the boat easily. We decided to table it for little while and head off on the hike. The rain slowed to a drizzle and we headed out. Unlike Punchbowl this hike was maintained and gorgeous. We walked along a picnic area and by the rapids. It was wonderful. When we returned we decided we didn't want to risk it with the mice and untied and anchored right next to the float. It was nice being tied to a float but not nice enough to risk a mice invasion.
Cruising to Naha Bay
Entering Naha
Public Float Naha Bay
Leaving for Hike
Trail Around the Rapids
Boat from the Hike
Naha Bay
Today would end our time in the Misty Fiords and we would make a right turn and head up the Clarence Strait. Meyer's Chuck would be our destination which came highly recommended by the guide books and locals. Having recently learned what a Chuck is (a place where fresh water and salt water meet) we were looking forward to going. Clarence Strait was fortunately uneventful. The wide body of water can get pretty rough with strong winds and opposing currents. Think Lake Michigan. As we made our way into Meyer's we were glad to be tying up on a dock and getting off and stretching our legs. There were a few boats already here when we arrived and Jeff slipped us in effortlessly. We saw several people working on their boats that we assumed were locals. Meyer's Chuck only has 27 house and some of them are only used in the summer. They have a post office and nothing else. One local told us that a sea plane delivers their groceries from Ketchikan once a week. A couple of gold loopers who we met in Ketchikan were here as well and walked over to say hello. After talking with them for a bit we put on our boots and hit the trail. This short walk took us along the houses and to a beach. The area was so charming and quaint and peaceful. We instantly loved it. We mat a lady working on her boat who works at the post office who also makes famous sticky buns you can order the night before and she will bring them to your boat. Unfortunately her supply sea plane didn't come in this week so no buns for us. The locals were all very friendly and welcoming and this was the kind of place I could see living if I was better at roughing it.
Cruising to Meyer's Chuck
Houses at Meyer's Chuck
Approaching Dock at Meyer's Chuck
Dock View Meyer's Chuck
Dock at Meyer's Chuck
Ramp View
The next two days would take us to our final two anchorages before hitting the town of Wrangell, Alaska. First Frosty Bay and then Anita Bay. The rain continued and we were both looking forward to getting to a marina in Wrangle, having cell service and getting some boat chores and projects done. The final two anchorages were gorgeous and offered us good protection. Both days consisted of reading, card playing and trip planning.
Frosty Bay
Tons of Birds En Route
Anita Bay View
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