After saying goodbye to our friends in Petersburg we made the 32 mile cruise north to Thomas Bay and Ruth Island Cove anchorage. We took our time before anchoring to see the entire bay which was stunning and then dropped the hook with one other boat and relaxed and enjoyed our surroundings.
Cruising to Thomas Bay
Thomas Bay
Rainbow at Anchorage
The next day was the day I had been waiting for since we got to Alaska. Our first bear spotting. Everyone told us how they had been seeing them and to just be patient. Well today was our day. We left Thomas and cruised 62 miles across Stephen's Passage to Snug Cove. The cruise itself was uneventful and we were happy to be making progress north. Upon arrival we had snacks and sat outside. As the night progressed we made dinner and watched Deadliest Catch and then right around sunset (9pm) we spotted three bears eating grass. I was ecstatic and finally felt like we were in Alaska.
Cruise to Snug Cove
Heading to Snug Cove
Snug Cove
Snug Cove
Bear in Snug Cove
Bears in Snug Cove
What a night. It couldn't get any better. Or so we thought. The next morning we up anchored and made our way to what would be our first glacier in Tracy Arm. At some point while cruising behind the boat Morning Dew I got a call from them on the radio letting us know that there was a pod of Orcas feeding where they were positioned. Thankful for the news we made our way over and slowed the engines. Just as reported the Orcas splashed and swam and we got amazingly close. First a bear and now an Orca, how lucky we felt. After gazing for awhile we idled up and made our way into Tracy Arm Cove anchorage where we would stage for tomorrow's glacier entry.
Cruising up Stephen Passage
Orcas
Orcas
Cruising into Tracy's Arm Cove
Cruising into Tracy Arm Cove
Burgie Bits Floating in the Water
Large Burgie Bit at Mouth of Anchorage
Tracy Arm Cove Anchorage
Timing is important when visiting the glaciers. Currents run strongly in either direction so for a more relaxed experience (if that's possible) you come the night before you want to visit the glacier and spend the night in Tracy Arm Cove. Then when you wake up in the morning you can hit the flood and make your way towards the glacier. We had no idea what to expect at 7am as we made our way out of anchorage and towards Sawyer Glacier. We saw burgie bits right away but they were spread apart enough that they weren't an issue. As we got closer and closer to the glacier this was no longer the case. Suddenly we were dodging left and right and trying to find a path that wouldn't be filled with ice. And then the banging on the haul began as we no longer could avoid all the burgies. When we were almost to Sawyer Island we noticed the sailboat from the anchorage the night before stopped in the ice. After a short radio chat we learned that they no longer felt their haul was safe and sent their tender ahead to view the glacier. After some words of confidence and our desire to see the glacier we decided to proceed and see how much further we could get. I don't know distance wise how much further we got but suddenly there was a solid wall of ice in front of us and we knew we could no longer proceed. Fortunately we made it to Sawer Island which afforded us an amazing view of South Sawer Glacier. We had done it! After deciding we were safe and the boat wasn't moving much we killed the engines and just floated taking in the spectacular glacier and caught our breath from the intense navigation.
Radar of Ice Cruising up Tracy Arm
Burgie Bits- TracyArm
Big One
Tracy Arm
Waterfall - Tracy Arm
Obstacles Heading up Tracy
Arm
Tracy Arm
Neighbor Boat from Anchorage
Obstacle Cours to Sawyer Glacier
Sawyer Island
Tracy Arm
Tracy Arm
Sawyer Glacier South
After about 30 minutes of solitude and glacier viewing bliss we decided to start the engines and make our way left to see if we could make it to Sawyer Glacier North. From the island the channel leading to Sawyer North didn't look as thick or treacherous as Sawyer South. Eyes focused and slow maneuvering we managed to get all the way to Sawyer Glacier North and it too was stunning. We were so fortunate that we could get really close to Sawyer North and spent awhile just taking in the beauty. As nice as the glaciers were we knew we still had to make the two hour treck back to the anchorage for the night, carving our way through the ice which we hoped hadn't gotten worse since we left. Slowly but surely we made our way out hitting several burgies and by the time we returned to Tracy Arm Cove we were both mentally worn out from the intense day of navigation.
Sawyer Glacier North
Sawyer Glacier North
Heading out Tracy Arm
Evening Tracy Arm Cove Anchorage
If we thought going up Tracy's Arm was a challenge the next day would be our biggest navigational challenge to date. Fords Terror shows up on the chart as an unsurveyed indentation on the north side of Endicott Arm named for a crew member who entered the narrows, got caught inside and spent 6 terrifying hours until the tide reversed. When we talked to the locals about going to Fords Terror we got a mixed response between, "oh we would never go there" to "oh it's amazing you just have to time it and it's no big deal." Timing the current in the rapids in Fords Terror is a challenge in and of itself. We were told base it off of Juneau tides and add 30 minutes. Others said no that doesn't work and to time it for Tracy Arm tides. If you hit it wrong the rapids which can run up to 15 knots can crash you into the opposing wall causing your boat to sink. Ideal time is high water slack. If you can figure it out. Fortunately there is a spot shallow enough right outside the rapids which you can watch and wait it out if need be. Up anchoring at 9 would allow us the two hour cruise to arrive at the 11a.m. slack water. The burgie bits remained up Endicott Arm and seemed to get worse as we approached our turn into Fords Terror. Jeff carefully navigated us through till they thinned out right before the waterfall and the view of the rapids. He grabbed the binoculars, scoped out the rapids and said it looked flat calm and we were good to go. We both held our breath and made our way through the 100 yard rapids with zero issue. There was very little current and before we knew it we were through and en route to our anchorage. We had done it!! We had navigated our way into Fords Terror. We were so excited!! As we rounded the corner to the anchorage we were both in awe of the beauty of our surroundings - deep fjords - green grass, snowy mountains, bears eating grass, and a waterfall. We both commented that this was the most beautiful place either of us have ever been.
Endicott Arm
Approaching Fords Terror Entrance
Waterfall inside Fords Terror
Rapids Fords Terror
Fords Terror Anchorage
Fords Terror Anchorage
Fords Terror
Fords Terror
Waterfall at Fords Terror
Bears Eating Grass
We would spend the rest of the day watching bears eating grass and soaking in our beautiful anchorage which we happened to have all to ourselves.
The next day was Jeff's Birthday. I made a cake and decorated and I sang to him embarrassingly alone and we spent the whole day just relaxing and so happy to have this gorgeous setting to spend his birthday at.
Happy Birthday Jeff
Fords Terror
Fords Terror
Fords Terror
Fords Terror
The next day unfortunately we would need to leave Fords Terror and continue making our way north. Again the timing needed had to be perfect for high water slack but this time we would not have the luxury of a anchorage to look ahead to the rapids. Once we made our turn to the rapids we were committed. Unfortunately this time we didn't get the timing as perfect as the entry and had a 7 knot current against us and Jeff was left to hand steer aggressively through the passage. He did wonderful and we came out unscathed. We both were sad to leave this incredible anchorage. Onto Taku harbor and the free float where we could get off the boat and stretch our legs.
Leaving Fords
Leaving Fords
Ice to Navigate Around
After Fords Terror no matter where we went was going to feel like something less. Taku Harbor happened to be that destination. There was nothing wrong with Taku it had a free float where we tied up and got off the boat and explored while getting a leg stretch in, it just wasn't the scenery we had just experienced. The hike that was reported there was nonexistent due to muddy and streamed flooded trails but we got as far as we could. Jeff took pictures of the old cannery remnants and machinery which was still on the beach and in the woods. After not too long we were back on the boat for the evening.
Entering Taku
Taku
Tidings of Joy on Free Float
Old Cannery Remnants
Walking in Taku
Evening Taku
Juneau-cruising to St. James
Lighthouse
St. James Bay
Evening St. James Bay
Town! Our first since being in Petersburg 9 days ago was today - Haines, Alaska. We were both looking forward to being in port, getting off the boat, having wifi and power at our disposal and checking out Haines the home of Parker Schnabel who Jeff watches on Gold Rush. After our 53 mile cruise we quickly got off the boat and went to explore downtown. Main street is where all the shops, bars and restaurants are. We went in several stores. Jeff bought a t-shirt and I got a book that was recommended to me by a native Alaskan author. We even had a beer at the brewery and flight at the distillery. All big covid things for us. It was great to be out there again.
Entering Haines
Haines Harbor
Dry Dock Haines Harbor
Brewery
