Sadly it was time to say goodbye to Isla Brincanco and start making our way to our summer home in Buenaventura. June 3rd was a rainy and dreary day and it captured our mood about the cruising season wrapping up. We made our way 28 miles to Bahia Honda and despite hearing about it from friends we had no idea what was about to come. Within minutes of dropping the hook a small panga with Domingo (the owner of the house on shore we anchored in front of) came to welcome us to the anchorage and tell us about all they had to offer such as fresh fruits and told us he would be back to bring us what they had. Domingo was just the beginning of the pangas who came to visit us offering different services such as cleaning or selling of goods and Domingo's grandson even asked to use our wifi password and sat on our swim step soaking up the free internet. I gave his mom who drove him out a large backpack full of clothes but did not have everything that she asked for. Not long after our first meeting Domingo returned with fruit from their garden and a wood serving platter they had made to sell to us. I don't remember the cost but it felt nice to help the locals out. Admittedly we weren't use to all this attention and it left us feeling a bit overwhelmed.
Approaching Anchorage at Bahia Honda
Anchored in Front of Domingos House
Domingo and his Captain
Domingo's Grandson & Daughter-In-Law
Garden Fruit and Serving Platter We Bought
Enjoying the Flopper Stopper Line
Local Stopping By To Sell His Goods
More Locals Checking Us Out
The second day at Bahia Honda we decided to explore a bit and dropped the hook to check out the beautiful bay we had to ourselves. Green treelined, remote and jungly we were stunned we were the only cruiser here. But it was getting towards the end of the season. The cruise was stunning and the bay was vast. Jeff enjoyed going fast and I loved seeing all the scenery. We were told we could tie up where the local pangas were and that there was a store on shore but we didn't stop. The rest of the day was spent reading and relaxing. Later that evening Kennedy (Domingo's son) stopped by to say hello and welcome us and thank us for the clothes we had given his wife and asked Jeff for some shorts and a raincoat. Jeff gave him what he had but explained that we don't carry much extra on the boat due to space. He thanked us and we spoke our best Spanglish together and said goodbye.
Tidings Of Joy Anchored in Bahia Honda
Island in Bahia Honda
Bird Abundance
Town
Rainbow While Dingying
Bahia Honda
Domingo Coming By to Say Hi
Kennedy
Sunset in Bahia Honda
Our cruise to Isla Canal De Afuera was only 9 miles so we didn't pull anchor until 10:25. We had a debate on where to drop the hook as there were no active captain markers and the location most other boaters told us they went was exposed to the swell and wind that day. We picked a location based on the current and predicted conditions and dropped the hook. With it raining all day we stayed in and read and played cards. It was becoming more clear why the cruising season ends in June. Isla Afuera is a national park and after several hours of being there we were approached by a park ranger boat who asked for our permit. Not having one he told us we would have to go to the main island to buy one. Luckily the man who helped us check into the country also was able to get us a pass remotely allowing us to relax for the evening.
Park Ranger
When we woke up the weather had only deteriorated and our plans to head to Naranjo or overnight it to Beaunaventura were shot. Jeff said the only place with reasonable swell and wind coverage was back in Bahia Honda. This left me feeling anxious. I'm fine to pivot plans. As a boater it's a must since the weather is out of our control but to go back to Honda where we had already said goodbye and to be constantly engaged with by all the local pangas did not sound appealing at but at this point felt like our only option. So at 0930 we pulled anchor and made our way back to Bahia Honda. Domingo was prompt to meet us waiting as we lowered the hook. Jeff explained that we were back due to bad weather. Shortly after Domingo returned with avocados and papayas. Jeff gave him 7 dollars and we didn't see him again. It poured the entire day so I drank coffee and we read and relaxed.
Dreary Morning
Back in Bahia Honda
Unfortunately the weather remained much the same the next day and once again we were forced to stay put in Honda. We worked on a few projects around the boat. The heat was stifling and unfortunately the water around the boat didn't look clean enough to swim so we just laid around with fans on us until it was ac time that evening. I was more than ready to leave.
Friget Bird
Sunset in Honda
To say I was more than ready to leave was an understatement. Fortunately the weather had subsided and at 0730 we pulled anchor and made our way to Ensenada Naranjo. The cruise took most of the day and by 1545 we dropped the hook. The anchorage was rolly but it didn't matter because now we were in the final push to get to Buenaventura. Rather then go on an overnighter trying to time the entrance into the channel at Beuanventure (can only enter at high tide cause it dries) we decided to make it in two hops- Naranjo and our next stop Benao. Both known for their roll but also good places to time rounding Punta Mala and timing your approach to Beanuaventura. Knowing this we just sucked it up the two nights and did what we had to do.
Entering Bahia Ensenada
Just when we thought the roll was going to be our biggest problem the next morning we woke to thunder and lightning but knew we had to keep moving in order to get the high tide at Buenaventura before dark. At 0745 we once again pulled anchor and made the 65 mile run. I can say this was no longer fun cruising and it was time to get into the marina and out of the weather. In Benao we had 4-5 foot rollers in the anchorage and even with the floppier stoppers we were all over then place. Final night then it was time to head in for the season.
Entering Benao
Town of Benao
Military Anchored Next To Us
Rain
Lightning
Even though we were sad the cruising season was coming to an end we were slightly excited to be getting to our new home and start the summer season. At 0640 we up anchored. Rounding Punta Mala we had 5 feet seas and strong currents against us which made for a bumpy ride but once around the corner things died down and the excitement of seeing freighters on AIS we knew were coming and going from the canal made us giddy with anticipation. High tide that evening was around 1830 making our 1700 arrival good. Our friends were nice enough to send us maps of the channel pointing out the places with the least amount of sand bars which we followed to a tee. As we inched our way through we saw 6 feet on the depth sounder which made us nervous. Kurtis from Summer Breeze was on the end of his dock waving and taking video of our entrance and several people were waiting at our slip to help us with lines. As I glanced over I noticed the boat Serenity (our friends Mark & Katheryn) were in the slip right next to us. This was going to be great. If we have to be stuck at least we are surrounded by friends.
Punta Mala
Stowaway
Afternoon Lightning
Bay of Panama
Entering Buenaventura Marina
Rain Started Seconds After We Tied Up
Cheers To A Successful Cruising Season
Next to Serenity
Celebratory Arrival Dinner with Serenity, Summer Breeze and Ever After
