DeFever Cruisers Rendezvous

 The day had finally arrived for our DeFever Cruisers Rendezvous. A short hop to Anacortes from the San Juan's, Jeff wanted to arrive early in order the wash down the boat and get her looking shinny and nice. Coincidently the day before I had received an email from a former gold looper who asked if we would be attending. Ironically our boats were docked right next to each other at the rendezvous and we were anxious to catch up. Jeff worked hard all day and was done in time for our first event- docktails. We shyly walked over to the activities float not knowing what to expect and quietly took a seat at the only table to be found. Within minutes a lady came over and said hello and told us it was her first rendezvous. We started to respond when suddenly I realized I knew her. Debbie & George own the boat Ethos and we met them in Petersburg, Alaska (their homeport) then again in Juneau. I told her who we were and Jeff and I quickly felt relieved to be with someone slightly familiar. Soon after George came over and the four of us sat talking the entire time not once getting up to meet any other people. Just as Jeff and I like it. We had dinner reservations that night and said our goodbyes to George and Debbie and told them we would see them at the seminars in the morning. Nonna Luisa lived up the hype and we enjoyed a large Italian feast. 

First Event - Docktails

Dinner at Nonna Luisa

The next morning at 0800 we walked over to the Anacortes Yacht Club where all of our seminars for the rendezvous would be held. We listened to the history of the DeFever, the current market for buying and selling boats now and how to take the best footage with your drone. All very informative and interesting. Despite that my mind was on open boat. We quickly headed back to the dock so I could stage the boat and make sure it was ready for the open boat invasion. I turned on lights, opened doors and made sure everything was ship shape. We grabbed our sack lunches from the activities float and scarfed them down to get ready. There was a gale warning and Jeff measured the wind which was blowing 46mph. The boats were all over the place and rollers were coming in at the end of the dock. I was happy to not have to go out again. Open boat went well and we met a ton of people who came through. By 4:30 it was done and so were we. A quiet raining windy night aboard was just what we needed. 

Cap Sante Marina

Anacortes Yacht Club

Seminars

Once again at 0800 we were at the yacht club ready for another morning of seminars. Today we learned how to cruise Mexico and beyond, the advantages of adding a bulbous bow and electrical issues on a boat. Today we ended at noon and walked around the Anacortes farmers market which had a drum circle and several cute booths. Jeff and I had lunch in town on our own and got our flu shots at Safeway. That evening we had a pot luck and I needed to get back to the boat to start cooking. We were a little (5 minutes) late and Jeff was nervous. When we arrived George and Debbie were there and had saved us seats. We were so happy to sit together and continue our conversation. We ate and drank and then had them over to the boat for a nightcap. 

Potluck with George and Debbie

The next and final morning of the rendezvous was a panel discussion of Q&A for the attendees to the senior members of the group. Jeff and I decided sleeping in and watching football would be more beneficial to us. A little hungover and groggy we made a big breakfast and watched football in pjs. We grabbed sacked lunches again from the float and then went to a couple open boats. We saw several 53s and a 60. So interesting to see the different layouts and how people have customized their boats. The final evening was a big banquet dinner with a pay bar, appetizers and a buffet dinner. We arrived on time and quickly got a drink. We spoke to some people and I actually met another couple from San Diego who keep their boat where we used to. So that was fun. We sat but George and Debbie again and some other now familiar DeFever people. We listened to a fascinating talk by Hank Haeseker our chief pilot about his adventures in Belize and Guatemala. It was so interesting and inspiring and I kept nudging Jeff telling him, "add that place to the list." After the talk we thanked Hank for sharing and said our goodbyes to the organizers and took a ride from George and Debbie. We got a treat on the way back, several deer were in the grass grazing and hanging out. It was a great capper to a wonderful rendezvous. 

 

Back to Life Back to Reality

 On an overcast and cool day we threw lines from Sidney, British Columbia and made the 11.4 mile run to Roche (pronounced like the nasty bug) Harbor and dropped the hook while simultaneously clearing customs via app then phone call. The process was swift and simple and here we were right back where we were about a year prior. My mood was glum to say the least. I just couldn't shake it. I didn't want to be back in the Puget Sound I wanted to be in Alaska. This would take some time to get used to. I kept myself busy by working on my blog and watching all the float planes come in and out from the anchorage. The place was packed and I felt smothered. Jeff on the other hand was chipper and excited to be back in Roche. At some point we lowered the dink and headed to the dock. A dockhand happened to be near and ran to tie us up. We walked along the familiar buildings and made it just in time for Jeff to get the famous donuts right before closing time. He picked up a few things from the little market and then we headed back to the boat to wait out our dinner reservation at the hotel. 

At dinner we could see the colors ceremony at sunset and hear the various music played - Canadian National anthem, British National anthem and Taps which today made me cry. Jeff noticed from across the table and took my hand. I apologized for being not good company and we went on to enjoy our meals which were both excellent. Jeff got fish and I got a veggie plate. A few glasses of wine and I was ready to put this day to bed. 

Purse Seiner at Work Outside Roche Harbor

Roche Harbor

Roche Harbor

Anchorage Roche Harbor

Colors Ceremony 

Restaurant at Roche Harbor

After a goodnights sleep I was feeling a little better and more willing to except our reality. At 10:17a.m we up anchored and made the 38 mile cruise to Bellingham where we would catch a flight to head to cousin Jarod's wedding. It was a sunny day and there were a ton of boats out cruising. At the marina we were assigned to the commercial fishing dock because we would be there for over a week and the marina has a limit on transients to three days so they were doing us a favor by letting us keep the boat there while we left. I kept telling myself that when I saw the shape of the docks and all the crap that was left at our slip - slabs of wood, old fenders with tons of barnacles all over them, old lines. I did my best to maneuver around them and got us secured by 3pm. We checked in at the office then walked the strip center and visited one of my favorite stores LFS followed by welcome drinks at the marina bar. The bartender was funny and made us laugh several times and I felt like I was starting to settle in. 

Cruising to Bellingham

Bellingham Harbor

Entering Squalicum Harbor

Our Dock Bellingham

The next day was spent doing laundry, boat projects and packing for our early morning departure to Ohio the next morning. We were confident the boat would be fine on her own and looked forward to seeing the Ohio family. 

The flight was uneventful and we were thrilled to see my parents at the Detroit Metro Airport. We went for a casual mediteranian dinner then made the two hour drive south to Lima. Ju was there waiting and after unloading the car we quickly got to catching up. 

Labor Day weekend was Jarod and Jessica's wedding. And like all Stolly family weddings it was a blast. The ceremony was familiar with some Mexican twists and the reception was full of libations and great conversations. As usually Jeff and I were the last to leave. 

The next few days in Ohio were spent catching up, eating, going to the lake and just enjoying each others company. We would fly out on Tuesday evening for Bellingham.

Our Prop Plane in Bellingham

Jarod & Jessica's Wedding 

The Dornick's

Back in Bellingham Jeff wasn't feeling so good and spent the entire day in p.j's on the couch. I proceeded with laundry and reprovisioning. We were scheduled to head out the following morning but Jeff was in no shape to be traveling so we got an extension from the harbormaster and he continued to rest and recover. Fortunately football season started that day too so we watched the first NFL game of 2021 and convelessed. 

Finally with a little nudging Jeff decided he would be okay to travel the 23 miles to Thatcher Bay on Blakely Island. I reminded him we were taking our home with us and if he didn't feel good at any point he could just go to bed. He agreed and we were off. I was so happy to be leaving Bellingham and get away from the dock. 

The anchorage was peaceful and quiet and we were fortunate to have it all to ourselves which is unheard of in the San Juan Islands. The day was overcast and we spent it soaking up the anchorage and reading. 

Thatcher Bay - Blakely Island

Sunset Thatcher Bay

Jeff finally was feeling back to himself and we decided to spend a second day at Thatcher. We watched as boats and ferries passed by while still having the place to ourselves. The day was overcast with light sprinkles on and off and we decided it would be a nice quiet p.j. day. 

Ferry Passing By Thatcher 

View from Thatcher

Thatcher Bay

After much slothfulness we decided to upanchor and leave our little quiet abode. Today the hope was to go to Patos Island and anchor. We've both wanted to go to Patos since arriving in the Pacific Northwest but you have to find the right weather window to go there because of how far north and open the island is positioned. We felt we had a good three day weather window which the conditions should be ideal. It was a sunny day and we made our way north through the islands. As we were approached Patos we saw another boat about our size entering the island before us. Slightly annoyed Jeff said they may be taking our spot. Patos has two mornings for boats (under 45 feet limit) and what we thought would be some room for a couple of other boats. As we were pulling in we saw the boat who had entered just before us leaving. Not a good sign. One of the two mornings was taken and there was one other boat med moored (anchored and stern tied to a tree). We could barely fit into the anchorage and I was impressed that Jeff could maneuver us out of there. So much for Patos. Luckily Sucia Island is right next door and Eco Bay was one of our favorite anchorages. We headed east and with little effort we anchored in Eco Bay. 

Map of the San Juan Islands

Lighthouse at Patos Island

Entering Patos

Eco Bay - Sucia Island

We decided a second day was in order at Eco. We lowered the dink and went to shore and took a nice long hike around the island taking in the pretty views.  Later we dingied all around the anchorage and to the sister anchorage next door. We read and watched Monday night football. 

Hiking Eco Bay

View From Hike

Tidings of Joy From Hike

The next day we decided it was time to move on. Some big winds were coming in and we would not be protected in Sucia. We cruised the short 18 miles to No Name Bay a place that would offer us good protection from the winds. It rained the entire day and you could feel that a front was rolling in. By 2:30 we were secured in No Name with several other boats. The anchorage was nothing special but did offer us great protection. We spent the rest of the day reading. 

No Name Bay

We intended to head out the next morning but the winds continued and our next destination didn't offer half the protection as No Name. With our upcoming DeFever Cruisers Rendezvous the next day I decided to spend the day cleaning the boat and getting her ready for open boat and all the people coming through to check her out. Jeff spent the day on the phone talking to various family members and catching up. 5 hours later and cursing cleaning I had her in pretty great shape and ready to show off to our friends and strangers. The sun was shinning and the wind was subsiding and we were ready to head into Anacortes for our rendezvous in the morning. 

No Name Bay

Sunset No Name Bay

Somberly Cruising South

After much debate should we leave or should we stay, thanks to our friends Gary and Liz we found an anchorage just north of Dixon Entrance that would provide good protection from the prevailing winds and the small craft warning. As I threw lines I thought about coming into Ketchikan and into Chuck & Margaret's slip and how excited and giddy we were to be in Alaska and how niece and optimistic we were. Now four months later our journey was over. Fortunately our anchorage for the night Pond Bay on Duke Island was still in Alaska so technically it wasn't quite over yet. The cruise was uneventful  6-7mph winds and 1-3 foot seas. Our 1:30 arrival allowed us time to soak in our last anchorage in Alaska and really enjoy our surroundings. We read and sat outside and got ready for our early a.m. departure in the morning. 

Leaving Ketchikan - Cruise Ships in Port

Got Some Fuel

Cruising out of Ketchikan

Pond Bay Anchorage

Sunset Pond Bay

Sunset Pond Bay

At 0600 the anchor was off the bottom and we were on our way. This time we really were leaving Alaska and en route to Prince Rupert, British Columbia to clear customs and spend the night. The eight hour cruise felt long and dreary and I sat with a heavy heart most of the day. Upon arrival the heaviness of the day continued. A fellow boater offered to grab our lines and when I politely said, "no thank you" he proceeded to stand there staring at us which annoyed Jeff then told us we had to move forward or back in our small side tie. For some reason we complied and finally secured the dock master came down to say hello and let us know that he had a medical emergency on another boat and that he had to ask us to move to another slip. Ugh! What could we do? As this was happening Jeff was on hold with customs trying to get our clearance. Of course they answered the phone right when we were asked to leave. We waited as Jeff answered questions about booze and firearms and finally got our clearance number right over the phone. No inspection. Easy enough. We moved the boat to the slip where the dock master waited and grabbed our lines which I had to retie after he was finished. We took a breath then decided to head into town to take a look. Can't say we saw much in Prince Rupert. There was a market and liquor store and a gift shop near the marina. Other then that not a lot was open and you could see the devastation the pandemic and left here. We did have a really nice dinner thanks to Chuck & Margarette's recommendation at The Waterfront  restaurant. It was so nice to be out at a restaurant again and feeling semi-normal. 

Sunrise Pond Bay

Leaving Pond Bay

Cruising Prince Rupert

Swan in the Clouds

Lighthouse En Route

Entering Prince Rupert

Prince Rupert

Cow Bay Marina - Prince Rupert

City Hall - Prince Rupert

Docks Prince Rupert

Dinner at The Waterfront 

Sunset Prince Rupert

Full bellies and a good nights sleep we continued onward south to Nettle Basin. As we were leaving Prince Rupert we saw the boat Tuuli on A.I.S. and Jeff radiod them to say hello. We have been at many anchorages and marina's with them and haven't seen them since Kake. We had a nice conversation and caught up on cruising plans and wished them well. They were headed around the outside while we would stay in the inland protected waters. The 67 mile cruise was nice and we were both looking forward to seeing Nettle Basin again. We remembered it fondly from our cruise north. Once again it didn't disappoint and we found another boat the Phoenician anchored right in front of the waterfall when we arrived. Fortunately there is plenty of space and we dropped the hook right behind them and settled in for the evening.  Apparently no pictures were taken. 

We unanchored in the dark and with pre-dawn at 0600 we were off for our 9.5 hour day to Bottleneck Inlet. This too was one of our favorites heading north and a must stop in my opinion. Early morning fog burned off and turned to overcast rain. We saw several whales and seals as we cruised. Unlike Nettle we had Bottleneck all to ourselves. We soaked in the view, made dinner, watched some shows and went to bed. We were pooped. 

Canadian Coast Guard Boat

Early Morning Fog

Bottleneck Inlet

Bottleneck Inlet

Bottleneck Inlet

We both slept liked rocks. The long passages take a lot out of you. The next morning we had a later departure of 8:15a.m. so we got to sleep in a bit. Jeff found an alternative route that took us through Jackson Narrows which was stunning. Eventually around 3p.m. we were heading into the dock at Shearwater Marina. Two dockhands and the dock master all came to catch lines and welcome us to the native village. Secured and paid up we walked the grounds. Jeff found a naniamo bar at the bakery and we got a beer at the pub. The entire village is made up of a market, bakery and pub/restaurant and a cute little park. Very simple yet nice. After our loop of town and a couple beers we went back to the boat to watch the parade of boat squeeze into the small marina ending with a 120 footer who the dock master rearranging all the boats in order for it to fit. It was the talk of the marina. 

Leaving Bottleneck 

Jackson Narrows

Jackson Narrows

Lighthouse 

Shearwater 

Helicopter Leaving Shearwater

Town

Shearwater Marina

Mural in Shearwater 

Full Marina

A big blow was coming the next afternoon for a couple of days so we tried to find an anchorage with good protection. Pruth Bay was that place. Although as we made the turn to starboard we began to wonder. It's 6 miles into the head of Pruth and the wind was already starting to pick up whipping the gold looper flag around rather violently. Jeff had heard about Pruth Bay and the active captain ratings were all 5's so I was anxious to see this place. We saw several whales as we cruised Fitz Hughes Sound and it was a boat parade in both directions. I was looking forward to the peace and quiet of an anchorage. When we arrived there were two other boats already anchored but lots of room for us to join. By 1:30p.m the anchor was set and the relaxation began. I wasn't into going to shore just yet so we spent the afternoon reading and napping. Eventually we had happy hour and I made dinner. We watched a movie and just as we were heading to bed the fog rolled in. 

Gunboat Passage - Leaving Shearwater

Gunboat Passage

Gunboat Passage

Cruising to Pruth Bay

Whole Tree Floating By

Pruth Bay Anchorage

Pruth Bay

Our View 

Pruth Bay

Evening Pruth Bay

Fog Rolling In

Finally after six days of nonstop travel we got to stay put and stay for a second night at Pruth. Thank you weather. I love cruising but after six days of nonstop early morning departures and going all day it gets tiring and it's nice to just keep your pjs on late and not rush out of somewhere. Today was that day. We made pancakes and drank coffee and were in no rush to do anything. Eventually we lowered the dink and made our way to shore to check out the beach hikes that everyone raved about. The day was overcast and we didn't notice any wind in the anchorage. We tied up to the assigned dock and made our way to the beach. The first hike was easy with wide trails mostly flat and ended up at a white sandy and log filled beach. Not a sole in site. From this west beach we made our way to a second trail that let to the north beach. This hike wasn't as simple. We walked across down trees and up steep hills which thankfully had ropes hanging to help yourself up. The hike was pretty and sereen and full of lush green trees. The  north beach looked much like the west beach and we were glad we had made the effort. Always nice to stretch your legs and especially at anchor. After our exercise we dinged back to the boat for lunch, cards, reading and naps. 

Dinging Into Shore

Pruth Bay - Hakai Research Building

Walk to Shore

Researchers Lodging 

West Beach

West Beach

West Beach

West Beach

Hiking to North Beach

North Beach Hike

North Beach

North Beach

North Beach

Hike

Refreshed, rejuvenated and ready to move on we upanchored at 0945 for Millbrook Cove. It was an overcast day and the cruise was fine until the final hour when things got a little rolly with 6 footers on the beam. Needless to say we were glad to be at our anchorage for the night. We shared it with three other boats and longed for our days in Alaska when we had entire anchorages all to ourselves. Jeff keeps reminding me that those days are over and it will only continue to get worse. 

Cruising to Millbrook

Millbrook Cove Anchorage

Millbrook Cove Anchorage 

Sunset Millbrook Cove

Moonrise 

Today was the big day the day we round Cape Caution. Carefully timed for wind and seas we chose today with thoughtful precision. At 0631 I sprayed down the anchor and we made our way as the sun rose. True to the weather reports Caution was no big deal. 3-4 foot swells with little to no wind. The fog came and went helping us practice our radar navigation skills. Again we saw several whales and at 1400 we were greeted by a dockhand at North Island Marina in Port McNeil. We were excited to see that the boat in front of us was a fellow Californian from Santa Barbara and were anxious to talk with them. We threw on the backpack and did the small loop through town. Unfortunately the pub and the distillery were both closed due to it being Monday. After seeing the closed bars and a cafe we made our way to the market for some fresh produce. Tomorrow we would enter Johnstone Strait letting her currents determine our departure time. 

Cape Caution

Cape Caution 

Port McNeil 

Town of Port McNeil

Johnstone had decided that current would be in our favor around 11:30a.m. which afforded us a slow morning and gave time for the fog to burn off. We decided on 30 miles and stopping part way at Port Nevill at Baresides Bay Anchorage would be about all the cruising we would do for the day. Once again it was a boat parade in both directions all through Johnstone. The currents gave us a push and then we headed into the anchorage. Wanting the best scenery possible I urged Jeff to take us to the head of the bay despite the long 40 minute cruise to get there. Once there we both were happy. Beautiful lush green mountain scenery and we had the place to ourselves, a luxury we hadn't been afforded since Bottleneck. I loved it!

Tiding of Joy En Route to Johnstone Strait

Port McNeil Anchorage 

Sunset Port McNeil

The next morning due to some winds coming our way we weren't able to listen to Johnstone as when to leave. Instead we told her and we bucked the current going as slow as 4 knots in order to get to Blind Channel at slack tide. All of these cruises are either dictated by currents, weather or tides and you try your best to come up with the best plan based on that. Despite our slow cruise to Blind Channel tying up at the dock was a piece of cake. It reminded me of timing the currents at Petersburg and how we watched plenty of boats slide into the their stalls instead of being driven in. We watched similar things at Blind Channel. Thanks to the slack tide we now were secured at 11:00a.m. with the whole day ahead of us. We would spend the day taking a hike to the old cedar tree which was over 800 years old, walking the grounds, seeing the store and eventually having a nice dinner at the lodge restaurant where they even had a vegan salad on the menu. It was a great day. 

Sunrise Port McNeil

View From Blind Channel

Tidings of Joy at Blind Channel Marina

Blind Channel Marina

Old Cedar Tree

Hike

Hike

Blind Channel Marina

Hike

Dinner at Blind Channel Resort

The next day was another early departure due to timing currents through Seymour Narrows. We would finish up Johnstone Strait and pass through the narrows at slack tide. The day was full of rain and fog and once again a parade of boat both pleasure and commercial fishing making their way through Seymour. We attempted to get into Campbell River but since it was so early they told us they didn't know if they had a slip available or not. Deciding not to bother we dropped the hook at 0956am at Gowlland Harbour with a troller, two sail boat and big old scow. Once a favorite heading north we were happy to be done for the day and have a lazy day of reading as the rain fell. 

Anchored in Gowlland Harbour

The next day after a long day of loafing around we were ready to be on our way. 0645a.m. and the anchor was in the pocket. False Bay has to be by far my least favorite off all of our Canadian and Alaskan stops. What I hoped for would be a quiet and peaceful anchorage ended up being a mooring field full of local boats with only a tiny bit of room to anchor and two other sailboats had beat us to it. Squeezing in smooshed between moored and anchored boats we dropped the hook and I was not happy. The weather was sunny and 70 which felt weird coming from Alaska. The sun felt like it was searing my skin. We lowered the dink and made our way for the dock. As we approached we could see it was full of local skiffs leaving no room to tie up other then the float plane dock which is a big no-no. Finally not knowing what to do Jeff asked a local who was getting off his skiff. He advised us to tie to the float plane dock saying it's never used. Feeling skeptical about it we eventually gave in and left the boat. Town was odd. People looked at us funny and everyone seemed a bit off. Both of us got a super creepy vibe as if we were not wanted there. We walked up the slight hill and saw some houses then went into the store where Jeff bought a nanaimo bar. Even the store was weird. Instead of leaving things in their original packages like say oreos they were taken out and put into individual zip lock bags. Same with tampons.  You couldn't buy a box of tampons only single individually wrapped ones neatly stacked on top of one another. We didn't understand. We counted our losses and dinged back to the boat to stare at the moored boats and plan our departure. 

Cruising to False Bay

Cruising to False Bay

Entering False Bay

Cookie Shack

Dock at False Bay

Sunset

Sunset

Almost back to Washington but not wanting to admit it we planned on checking out the town of Nanaimo that other then the yummy bars we really didn't know much about. Now that Canada is open to U.S. citizens we were glad to be making more marina stops and seeing Canada. The 33 mile cruise was warm and sunny and we felt happy to be given a slip at the City Docks right in town. They have all these weird policies that make it difficult to make a reservation leaving you hoping for a slip as you arrive. Luckily they had space and we tied up behind a large blue boat with several other cruiser on the dock as well. We put on our walking shoes and set out to explore. The harbor office was nice and the harbor walk went for four miles all along the waterway. We found a beautiful park and even a restaurant offering vegan selections for me. The town has a small feel despite the 90,000 citizens. Jeff of course got more nanaimo bars and we hit the market on the way back for more fresh produce. 

Cruising into Nanaimo

Downtown Nanaimo 

Me & Tina

Nanaimo 

Nanaimo 

Nanaimo 

Park in Nanaimo 

Nanaimo City Dock

Courthouse Nanaimo

Sunset Nanaimo 

Big winds 25-40mph were due to hit and we managed to stay another night at the city docks. We slept in late and hung in pjs till almost noon when we finally got dressed and headed out. Today we walked the harbor walk all the way down to the yacht club and some other marinas to check them out. Afterwards we walked slowly through the park and listened to a man playing an accordion and watched the people stroll by. Jeff saw a fish and chips place he wanted to try so we went there on our way back to the boat. It was weird to say the least but at least his lunch was good. Back at the boat we talked with some neighbors and got ready for the next days departure. 

Sunset Nanaimo

Dodd Narrows would be our final navigational challenge heading south to Washington and a 10:20a.m. departure put us right at slack tide at Dodd. The parade continued and we found ourselves in a line with three other sailboats who Jeff frustratingly wanted to get around the entire time. He called our Security call as we entered Dodd and the slack tide was no big deal. As we exited Jeff cranked the rpm's and we ditched the sailboats. A sad feeling came over me as we decided on Sidney as our destination. Now more then ever we were only one day away from Washington and the San Juan Islands and our Alaskan adventure was over. Four months just to come full circle and be right back in Sidney Harbor where we anxiously entered in April wondering if customs would let us through despite the boarder being closed. I took a pause and sighed as I tied the lines at Port Sidney Marina. We were back weather or not we were in the states or not. 

Leaving Nanaimo

Entering Dodd Narrows

Woodchips

Log Boom

Port Sidney Marina

Downtown Sidney

Downtown Sidney