Saturday, December 31, 2022

Do You Know The Way to San Jose

 At 0917 on December 11th after 26 hours we made our way into San Jose Del Cabo. It was early and the marina wasn't answering the radio or the phone so we decided to make a pit stop at the fuel dock taking on a little fuel and asking about our reservation. The man was nice and welcoming and told us where to find our slip and sent someone over to catch lines and hook up power. Where were we? Half delirious half ecstatic we got the boat settled then had a seat in the aft deck and took in our surroundings. We sat for a little while but not long enough to realize how exhausted we were. We called an Uber and decided to stay awake and head into town for a celebratory beer and some lunch. Our friends Mike and Stacy who are regulars in both Cabo and San Jose Del Cabo gave us some great tips on where to go. Our first stop downtown was the Baja Brewery. The outdoor patio was inviting and charming and we found ourselves surrounded by gringos. I had a local dark beer and Jeff an IPA and we cheers to our successful journey down the coast of Baja. One and done we were hungry for lunch so we went went next door to the Mezcal and Tacaria La Lupita (a Mike and Stacy recommendation) and settled in at the bar. I ordered a Mezcal which came in a cute little handmade bowl along with limes and chili salt. Jeff had beer. The tacos were great - mushroom and cactus for me and fish and shrimp for Jeff. We also downed some chips and gauc too. The tortillas were handmade on site and within our vision from the bar and it was a great first meal to kick off our stay in San Jose. We ventured into the town square and looked around and shared churros for dessert. By this time I was starting to hit a wall. Only getting 3-4 hours of sleep the previous night from the overnight leg it was time to go home. Another Uber ride home and I quickly hit the couch for a nap. We had a quiet night and went to sleep early. 

Cruising into San Jose Del Cabo

Sitting in the Aft Deck Taking in the View


Downtown San Jose Del Cabo 

Downtown 

Beers at Baja Brewery 

Lunch at La Lupita

Town Square San Jose Del Cabo

Town Square

Church in Downtown San Jose


Town Square

Storefront 

The next day we decided we needed to see Cabo San Lucas where we've had so many happy memories of Pollak family cruises and my 40th birthday cruise. And what better place to take in the sites but The Office. Having been there previously we didn't feel the need to do any of the typical tourist activities or walk the streets so straight to The Office it was. We had a nice table in the sand far enough away from the beach where the venders couldn't get to us but we still had a good view of what was going on. Jeff got fish for lunch and I had chips and guac along with a couple cadillac margaritas. The view was great and we reminisced about being there with the family. Jeff decided that we needed some shots and asked for the taquilla man to come over. They discussed different brands and some other non-taquilla issues. We had our shots and next thing I know Jeff bought two bottles of the house made taquilla. Whoops. Shortly after the purchase we Ubered back to the boat and face-timed our good friends Randal and Michelle. Not sure what all was discussed but I remember it being loud. 

Marina Grounds 

TofJ Across the Fairway 

Whole Whale at Marina

Beach at the Marina 

Pretty Sculptures Around Marina Grounds


Marina Artwork 







The Office 


Outside Table at The Office 

Our View 

Cruise Ship Anchored Outside Office 


The Arches

Jeff's Lunch 

Since we were having such as fun time we asked the marina if we could extend our stay for a few days. They said it would be no problem but we would have to move slips because another boat was scheduled to come into our slip. Not a problem and excited to stay we moved over to R dock which consisted of all sport fishing boats and us. We watched the guys work on their boats cleaning and fixing and readying them to go out and fish. We spent most of the day onboard until the evening when we took an Uber to Flora Farms for dinner. Another Mike & Stacy recommendation. This might be to date my favorite and best restaurant that we've been to. Flora Farms is a working farm where they grow and raise everything they server on their menu from herbs, to fruits and veg to eggs, cheese, cows and chickens. When we got dropped off we were greeted and told to explore a bit if we had time before heading to the restaurant. On property there is a coffee shop, a wine tasting shop, clothing stores and private cottages you can rent by the week. We were mesmerized having no idea what a complex the place was. We slowly meandered to the restaurant which was at the end of the road. There were maybe 50 tables all outdoors with a roof top. The menu was full of freshly grown vegetables, vegan items and fish and meat. We took our time having homemade cocktails with herbs from the farm and then a fish and vegan dinner. It was delicious. One of my favorite parts of the experience came after dinner when we meandered into the restaurant store which consists of farm grown fruits, vegetables, butters, cheeses, flowers, elixirs and pastries. I left with two bags full of produce and two flower crowns. It was a very memorable evening and we were glad we stayed to experience it. 

Old Carriage at Marina 

Evening at the Marina 

Arriving at Flora Farms 

Our Table Flora Farms 

The Restaurant 

Live Music at Flora Farms 

The next day we decided we wanted to do some exploring so we rented a car for the day and took a road trip to Todos Santos which the guidebooks and locals told us was a great place to visit. It's about an hour north east of San Jose and we were excited for a land adventure. When we arrived we weren't exactly sure where to go other then downtown and we walked the few blocks looking into stores of tourist shirts, ceramics and glassware. Vanilla is also a big thing here and shops pride themselves on their organic pure vanilla. We decided on a place for lunch called La Adobes which one of our Uber drivers recommended one of the previous days. We sat outside overlooking their beautiful dessert garden. We had a couple beers, Jeff had fish and I had a bowl of vegetables in a special pot they call molcajete. After a coffee break at a local shop and taking in a little bit of the semi finals of the world cup we decided we had seen Todos Santos and started back to San Jose in order to return the rental car before dark. En route we made our way to the hiper (Spanish for giant supermarket that has clothes, food, electronics and everything all in one store) got some fresh produce, took it back to the boat, returned the car and came home. It was a long day but we were excited we got to explore the area a bit. 

Lunch at La Adobes - Todos Santos 

After some routine maintenance checks Jeff discovered that our intakes to the starboard main engine was loose and could easily spin around. What does this mean? Basically that if it loosens even more it could allow sea water which comes in to cool the engine to free flow into the engine room and we would be taking on water and from there (I can't even type the word) things could get really bad. So fortunately our marina also has a boat yard which has a sister company in San Diego- Marine Group- which we know really well. Jeff called and they were nice enough to get us in. The manager said had we called next week we would be looking at March before they could get to us. Wow! Besides being a total shock being hauled in Mexico all went smoothly and after 4 hours in the slings we were back in the water. 


Heading to Marine Group Boat Yard

Waiting for the Lift

Putting the Straps on

Up She Goes


Hanging on the Hard While Getting Fixed

Back in She Goes

Much relieved and back at the slip we chilled a bit before the evenings activities. When we checked in at the marina the girl in the office told us be sure not to miss art walk that happens every Thursday evening in downtown San Jose that features local artist who set up all around the square and there is food and music. So that's what we did. We walked up and down each isles seeing paintings, drawing, handmade goods and watched as a man hand weave the blankets he was selling. We had a happy hour drink at a downtown restaurant that had seating right on the street to watch all the action. After we made our way to Jasmine a Mexican restaurant the marina had recommended. It felt touristy and once again I was eating chips and guac for dinner due to the lack of vegan items. A mariachi band came in and played us Besame Mucho which we always love but reminded us we were visitors here. As we were finishing our dinner we watched a group of young Aztecs in traditional costumes walking through the restaurant and onto the street. We quickly paid and headed down to the street just in time to watch them perform their fire dance. It was incredible and we had a front row seat. I was mesmerized. We watched the entire show then made our way back to the square for churros and an Uber ride home. 

Blanket Weaving at Art Walk 

Downtown San Jose Del Cabo 

Rooster in the Street 

Dinner at Jasmine 


Jeff's Fish 

Mariachis at Jasmine 

Fire Dancers



Warming Up





















Cruising to Cabo

After our long 30 hour cruise to Bahia Santa Maria it was so nice to not only sleep in our bed as opposed to the watch birth in the pilothouse but it was really great to sleep in. We both got 10 hours of sleep. Rejuvenated we spent a slow morning in p.j's watching the surroundings and pangas zipping by as they started their fishing day. Shortly after breakfast a panga came by the boat and hovered around the stern. I asked Jeff to go out and talk with them since I'm not fully confident using what little Spanish I have.  As soon as he opened the door they said in English, "you want lobster?" Which for Jeff is like striking gold. He of course said yes and asked if they could give him just the tails since we didn't want to deal with the killing and removing the shells. They of course agreed and four dollars and one chocolate bar later Jeff had three lobster tails. It was such a fun experience and something we had only read about happening in our guidebooks. We were really in Mexico now. The rest of the day was uneventful we completed some boat chores, rested, read, showered and Jeff cooked up his lobster tail feast.  


Panga & Lobster Fisherman 

Jeff with his Lobster Tails 

Bahia Santa Maria Anchorage


Boat Cruising By Anchorage 

Sunset 

Big Moon 

Fully rested and packed full of lobster (well at least Jeff was) it was time to move along. We cruised only a short 33.5 miles to Bahia Magdalena (Mag Bay as all the regular cruisers call it). Even though it was only a short distance we've been hearing about Mag Bay for years and how it's a major stop between Ensenada and Cabo and a nice place to rest. The size of Mag Bay is comparable to San Francisco Bay and we wouldn't even see a third of it. The cruise was pleasant and easy and a nice change from the long overnighter. We were afforded our first whale sighting of the trip and found ourselves shouting the familiar, "blow! tail!" and it was great to see them again. The marine life has become more and more abundant the further south we head. We also spotted dolphins, seals, pelicans and frigits (Jeff's favorite new bird). Three other sailboats were already anchored in Man of War Cove in Mag Bay when we arrived and we found our spot with plenty of room for us all. After getting the hook in and settled a bit we decided to try out our new inflatable dingy. Jeff left it blown up and tied to the top deck so now it was just a matter of launching it over the side and heading to shore. Sounds easy right? Not so much. Or at least not for us yet. Our main dingy has launching gear and a built in harness for lowering it overboard. The new one did not and after some sketchy rigging we decided to give it a go. This time I ran the crane and Jeff caught it down below. Also about this time the wind was picking up and we found ourselves contending with some chop as the new dink slammed into the side of the boat. Jeff got it secured and next I lowered the motor. Again with some doing Jeff got it attached and oars secured and we made our way to shore taking pleasure in our new rig. Unlike the states there wasn't a clearly marked dingy landing on the beach so we just found a place that looked ok and as Jeff gunned it into the beach while then raising the motor I launched myself into the foot of water and grabbed a line. Jeff then jumped out and with the wheels lowered we wheeled it ashore. Shew! That wasn't as smooth or as easy as we had hoped getting sideways to the breaking waves crashing into shore made me way nervous. Dingy locked to a rock we started out exploring. 

Man of war cove is a fishing village where pickup trucks launch pangas all day long. There really is no town so to speak but one long beach that has some buildings and one bar/restaurant. We got a nice leg stretch in walking from one end of the beach to the other finally deciding we needed a cerveza. The beach hut was charming and inviting and when we arrived another couple from one of the other sailboats anchored was there. We said hello and found out they were from Israel. They were just finishing up as we got our Pacifico. Five or six local woman were there sitting at a long table playing some game we didn't know but we just kept hearing one lady calling out single words, "mesa, naranja, negro...." The view was of the beach and the anchorage and it was a very relaxing place to to have a beer. After our second we decided we had better make our way back and start raising the dink before the wind picked up any more. We watched some Thursday night football, made dinner and went to bed. 

Sunrise at Bahia Santa Maria- Pre-Departure 

Cruising into Mag Bay

Village in Mag Bay

Frigit Cruising into Mag Bay

Camp Site in Man of War Cove

Beached Dink

On Shore at Man of War Cove

Fisherman Launching their Pangas 

Anchorage from Shore

Church on Shore

Tidings of Joy Anchored

Building on Shore

Whale Bones on Shore

Having a Drink 

The Bar/Restaurant 

The Bar/Restaurant 

Sunset 

Night

Overnight the wind had picked up to where we weren't comfortable leaving so we decided to spend a second day at Man of War cove. Too windy to lower the dink because of crashing waves onto the boat we just had a day of chores and relaxation and prepared for our next long overnight cruise in the morning. 

At 0655 we up-anchored and started on our 26 hour long cruise to San Jose Del Cabo. We were really fortunate to have the moon with us from 7pm until sunrise easing our minds about seeing outside and making it feel more comfortable not being in the pitch black.  We settled into our shift which we more like routine now and more familiar and Jeff even managed to have dinner al fresco as the sun set. As we got close to Cabo San Lucas we started seeing a lot of boats coming and going and despite being exhausted we both got really excited. We finally were at the end of Baja California a long 850 mile journey that we had accomplished on our own in our own boat not a cruise ship. As we approached San Jose Del Cabo (about a 20 min drive from Cabo San Luca) we once again found ourselves high fiving and feeling giddy and proud. 

Sunrise Leaving Mag Bay




Leaving Mag Bay

Passing Lots of Pangas Mag Bay

Jeff On Break Having Dinner Back Deck 

Sunset Underway 





Moon Rise 


Approaching Cabo San Lucas at Sunrise 



Sunrise

The Arches of Cabo San Lucas 

Cabo San Lucas

Rounding the Corner to San Jose Del Cabo

Approaching San Jose Del Cabo