Vamos a Mexico

 Finally Finally Finally we left San Diego after being there for three months. We were both more then ready to carry on boating. Saturday November 26th we threw lines at Jeff Brown Yachts and said goodbye to our homeport as the sun began to rise. Elated was the feeling. I sprung out of bed at 5a.m. giddy to get back to boating again and begin our Mexico adventure. We both worked so hard readying the boat for this day that all we could do now was navigate and look forward to what was to come. The eight hour 47 minute cruise was sunny and uneventful. Pelicans, dolphins and harbor seals took turns greeting us. During one of my shifts I noticed a panga in the distance and crab (probably lobster down here but I call everything crab) pots so I decided to split them giving both ample distance. As I passed the crab pot I noticed a very long greenish thin line hanging from it and probably due to PTSD from almost running over a long line up north I instantly panicked. Jeff told me to throw it into reverse in order to free the line and as I did Jeff told me nothing was caught and I probably just assumed I ran over it. Shew! Heart pumping as we switched shifts and approached the entrance to Marina Coral and Ensenada. 

Two dockhands met us at the dock and spoke rapid Spanish to each other and in no time had us secured to the dock and ready to take us up to the office. As we walked along the dock with our papers I noticed the boat SeaVenture from YouTube and we got excited at the possibility of running into them at some point. As we walked towards the office wouldn't you know it Jim and Rosy of SeaVenture we walking out. Jeff shouted, "hey SeaVenture" to them and they stopped and we told them how much we loved their channel and explained how if it wasn't for their advice on their videos we wouldn't have made it to Alaska during Covid. They were more the kind and gracious and even agreed to take a photo with us. Very kind. We told them to stop by our boat anytime and we would love to share a drink with them. Wow!  Check in was simple and the office staff friendly and welcoming as always. We made a b-line for the hotel bar to cheers our first stop, old haunt and welcome ourselves to Mexico. The marina office gave us two free drink coupons so we couldn't not go. Margaritas went down like water and it felt like a fun new beginning to our tropical adventure. 

Coincidently our friends from our old marina in San Diego - Cabrillo Isle happen to keep their boat at the Marina Coral and we had a plan to meet up on their boat for drinks and dinner. Jose was the very first person we met when we returned to San Diego from the east coat. He recognized our looper flag and came down to help us tie up when we first arrived. Over the years our friendship grew and we love his wife Martha as well. She is woman after my own heart. It was fun seeing them on Pilar then going to a new restaurant close by they knew of. The three of them had a seafood feast which they described as excellent and I had a cheese-less pizza which was surprisingly good. Great friends, food and drinks what else does one need and what a fantastic way to start our journey into Mexico.

Adios Jeff Brown Slip 

Crossing into Mexico

Coronado Islands in Mexico 

T.J.

Outskirts of Ensenada 

Approaching Hotel & Marina Coral 

Entering Coral Marina 

SeaVenture 

Jim & Rosy of SeaVenture 

Marina Coral 

Our Slip

Welcome Drink at Hotel Bar

Jose & Martha's Boat 

Drinks with Jose & Martha 

The next morning was Sunday and every Sunday the hotel puts on this wonderful brunch where they roast a goat and have tons of delicious food. After many drinks with friends the previous night a big brunch was just what we needed. We of course stuffed ourselves like pigs all while mentioning the brunch seemed smaller then in years past. The afternoon was spent laying around trying to deflate while we watched american football. After the swelling had gone down we went for a little stroll to the market across the street where we picked up some hot homemade tortillas. Being three days after Thanksgiving I was behind and decided I needed to put up the Christmas tree immediately. We continued watching football into the night and enjoyed the glow of the christmas tree in the background. 

Poor Goat 

Christmas on the Tidings of Joy

Monday morning we had an appointment to take the marina van to the customs and immigration office to check in and clear our way through Mexico. The marina is so great that for a small fee they handle all of your paperwork for you and give you a ride into to the customs office and do all the communicating in order to clear you through. Its so wonderful and we've been utilizing it for years. We took advantage of our third day at the marina by getting the boat washed, had an o-ring replaced under the sink and just did some basic chores. We took another walk along the boardwalk and tuned into Monday Night Football while we had our dinner. Sometime later maybe around 7pm we heard a knock on the boat and it was Jim and Rosy from SeaVenture. We welcomed them onto the boat and shared some wine and talked about our mutual experiences in Alaska and Puget Sound all the while thinking, "holy shit! SeaVenture is on our boat!" It was a great evening and they were so nice and kind and then invited us the next day to take a tour of their boat which we gladly excepted. Another wonderful day in Ensenada. 

Immigration Office 

Sunset 

SeaVenture Visits Us 

The next day we were due to depart Ensenada but the seas and winds were not ideal (8-10 footers and 30mph of winds) so we extended our stay another night. We spent the day installing new security cameras that my parents got us for Christmas. Jeff did most of the work and I assisted. Surprisingly it took us most of the day to get the placement and setup figured out. After our work was done we took another walk knowing once we left Ensenada we weren't sure when we would be off the boat next. A productive and uneventful day. 

View from our Walk 

Seas calm and winds more typical we threw lines at 0630 and who should be on the dock as we were untying? Jim from SeaVenture came down to say goodbye and see if we needed any help. Very kind. We said our goodbyes and hope we will see them down south somewhere. The sun was shining and the 3-5 foot swells gently picked us up and sat us down. This was our very first time cruising on our own south of Ensenada and we were hyper aware of that fact. Lots of dolphins, seals, pelicans and seagulls joined us on our journey. The fishing fleet was out near Ensenada and then we were all alone. Bahia Colonet anchorage I found using a Panama Posse cruising itinerary. They tend to do more day hops where the CUBAR and HAHA make much longer passages. We arrived to an empty anchorage and were anxious to deploy and try out our new flopper stoppers. This is just what we got them for. The anchorage turned out to be quite rolly but gave us some wind protection. While we waited for other boats to arrive non did and we settled in for a quiet night alone at anchor. 

Sunrise Leaving Ensenada 

Fishing Boat Outside Ensenada 

Passing Rocks

Approaching Bahia Colonet 

Approaching Anchorage at Bahia Colonet

Anchored Bahia Colonet

Flopper Stoppers

Sunset 

Despite using the flopper stoppers a massive current swished through the anchorage all night and I did not sleep at all and woke up cranky and anxious to leave. By 0800 floppers were brought in and the anchor in the pocket we set off towards San Quintin (not pronounced like the prison but Keen-Teen). Overcast skies and 1-3 foot swells the cruise was smooth and uneventful. Saw a few pangas, pelicans and seabirds and as we approached we noticed two sailboats already anchored there which was a welcome site after being alone in Colonet. We knew we wouldn't see or talk to the people but knowing they were there was somewhat comforting. Hook dropped and floppers out I laid down for a nap. The anchorage was calm and still and sleep came easily. Thursday night football was on and I made diner and hoped for a better nights sleep. 

Sunset at San Quintin 

We both slept great. The anchorage was calm, peaceful and quiet with little to no rolling. Today was a very big day for us we would start out on our first overnighter of the Baja trip. Having only done one other overnighter before during the loop with two other boats this idea left us both a bit anxious but there was weather coming in and Turtle bay afforded the best protection. Around 1200pm we saw one of the two sailboats passing us on their way out of the anchorage and wondered if we would see them out there. 1230pm and we too up-anchored and headed out into the unknown. The previous night I carefully made a watch schedule that would get us to Turtle Bay. Basically 3 hours on and 3 hours off for 22 hours until we arrived. Jeff starting and ending the trip. The sky was sunny and overcast and as we headed further south we found Talisman on AIS and knew it was the boat from the San Quintin who left right before us. Without communicating we cruised side by side for many hours and into the night. Around 10pm they radioed me letting me know they would be slowing down and cutting behind us to head in. I thanked them for their consideration but was a little sad we would be loosing our cruising buddy. We transitioned into the night uneventfully and had the moon illuminating our way until 1am when it was pitch black. I woke up for my shift at 3:30a.m and was in shock at the blackness. Jeff told me it felt really eerie then proceeded to fall quickly to sleep. I have to be honest I had about 30 minutes of pure panic and keep looking outside to try and see anything which of course I couldn't. Finally after a lot of self talk and reminding myself we had experienced the same thing with the fog heading north to just suck it up there was nothing I could do I got over myself. Some peaceful music through my earbuds and all was well. Despite warning from our friend Chuck, Jeff and I both managed to find kelp to run over near Cedros Island and again were throwing the boat into reverse to loose the unwanted nuisance. Finally after 207 miles and 26 hours (we originally thought it would only be 22) at 2:16pm we dropped the hook and high fived at Turtle Bay. 

Sunset En Route to Turtle Bay 

Talisman Sailing Next to Us

Night Time Cruising 

Morning has Broken - Hurray 

Pangas 

Passing Little Village

Commercial Fishing Boat

Turtle Bay

Anchored In Turtle Bay 

Turtle Bay

Pangas Passing By

After the flopper stoppers were deployed we both hit the couch and crashed hard. We were exhausted. Jeff managed to get sleep during his 3 hour breaks but I did not, constantly being woken by the radio, squeaking chairs and just general unease. After some time we woke up, soaked in our new scenery and made dinner. There were about 5 other boats (all sailboats) also anchored here and we were happy to not have to travel the next day. 

Sunset

I slept 12 hours I was so exhausted from no sleep the previous nigh and the anchorage was calm and peaceful. We had a very slow morning staying in pjs late and drinking coffee for a long time. At some point we decided to put on clothes and inflate our new dingy and see the town. The dingy took some effort getting it blown up then launched over the side, ors and seat installed and motor mounted. Finally after a very long time and lots of cursing by Jeff we were on our way. There is no dingy dock in Turtle Bay and the only option is to beach your dingy on shore hence or new inflatable with wheels. This being another first for us we got sideways and a wave launched us onto the beach. I quickly got out and grabbed a line while Jeff deployed the wheels. Shew! Dingy secured we wondered around wondering where it was we were supposed to go. All the buildings looked run down and abandoned. We found ourselves walking through flooded neighborhoods all alone. Eventually we found a little market and went in and bought some tortillas and a bottle of water. Jeff asked the woman working there how to get to town and she directed us. Town consisted of another bigger market and nothing else. Jeff spoke to a man working the meat counter who told us where to find a restaurant which we never found but as we were approaching the beach again a man on a deck of a house said hello and welcome in english and invited us to his bar which is also his home. We sat on the deck and drank a Tecate and spoke to a local couple who were from Spain and Sweden. They were very nice and even offered to share their fish soup with us. After our beer and some shock we made our way back to the mothership. Showers, dinner and early departure in the morning. 

Gorgeous Sunrise - Turtle Bay 

Commercial Fishing Boat Moored Next to Us

Boat full of Pelicans 

New Dingy in the Water

Approaching Turtle Bay

In Front of Enriques Fuel Dock 

Beached Dingy 

Stray Dogs

Beach Turtle Bay

Town 

View From Town 

Town 

Drinks At House/Bar

Town 

Sunset

At 0815 Monday December 5th we set out for our second overnight multi-day journey. This time heading to the anchorage at Bahia Santa Maria which is 268 miles and a 30hour cruise. Heading south we were fortunate to have both following winds and seas providing a surf pushing us along and giving us a boost throughout our journey. Having completed the overnight to Turtle Bay we had more confidence heading into this cruise and already knew which shifts we preferred and which we wanted to avoid. Jeff knows that by 9:30pm he needs to be sleeping so we made the watch schedule accordingly and I took over at that time being more of a night owl then him. After several hours we were in a rhythm and I enjoyed watching Monday night football in the salon while Jeff took his watch. This night the moon rose at 4pm and was with us until 4am illuminating the dark seas and making things seem less intimidating. As I settled into  my 3:30 to 6:30am shift I watched the light disappear into total darkness and reminded myself we had already experienced this already en route to Turtle Bay and started a new episode of A Way With Words and sat back and relaxed. Despite the longevity of the cruise it was uneventful and we got through it quiet well and at 2pm Tuesday we were dropping the hook along with 5 other boats in Bahia Santa Maria. And once again I immediately hit the couch and passed out for a long nap. 

Leaving Turtle Bay

Baja Coastline 

Night Approaching 

Sunset

Passing a Sailboat

Jeff Driving & Me Sleeping

Commercial Fishing Boat

Panga

Daybreak 

Approaching Bahia Santa Maria 

Approaching Anchorage 

Anchored in Bahia Santa Maria 

Heading Back to Our Homeport

 It was the day I dreaded since June 2020 the day we would return to our homeport of San Diego ending our Pacific northwest adventure. I woke up with a sick feeling and felt really sad to be ending our cruising days for a while. Jeff was aware but far less emotional then I was. I kept reflecting on all the adventures we had up north and the endless cruising, wonderful climate and great people we met along the way and to me even though we were returning home to friends and family it felt like not only the end but a possibility of being stuck and never cruising again. I unlooped the spreader line from the stern, launched the wand and then the bow morning line and just like that we were on our way. It was so nice spending a week in Catalina and unwinding before returning to San Diego. The 75 mile cruise was sunny and filled with fishing boats all seeking out tuna. We spotted whales, dolphins, a flying fish and several schools of tuna jumping out of the water. The sea was putting on a show for us as we made our way. The coast came in and out of view with the marine layer and before we knew it we were staring at La Jolla. The Hyatt hotel in Mission Bay, our old marina, came into view next and as we made the hard turn to port tears filled my eyes. Cruising into Mission Bay we were both in disbelief and kept saying to each other, "Can you believe it?" It was a parade of boats both entering and exiting the bay and the anchorage was filled with mooring balls and our go to spot at the entrance was taken by two boats rafting up and several sailboats. We made our way toward the opposite end through the mooring field and found a nice opening between the moored boats and several anchored boats. It was September 1st and boats  were positioning themselves for the Labor Day holiday weekend. We were glad to get any spot. As the hook hit the bottom and we finished up our routine we hugged each other and without speaking acknowledge our wonderful achievement. I was in a dark mood and drinks began to flow. The aft deck provided the view as we watched the sun set over the pacific. There was much work to be done and after the holiday we head to the boatyard to begin our long to do list to ready the boat for our cruise south to Mexico in November. 

Whale Spout 

Whale Back 

La Jolla 

The Hyatt Mission Bay 

Heading into Mission Bay 

Anchored in Mission Bay 

Sunset 

Good Night 

Business Before Pleasure

Have you ever tried crossing a busy road trying to time it right when cars in both directions were far enough away that you can bomb across safely? This was us today except for in a boat crossing the Port of Long Beach Shipping Channel entrance but only going 8mph. En route to Alameda Bay you have to pass by the Port of Long Beach the largest port in the U.S. filled with lots of container ships anchored out waiting to be called in by the port master. The sun was shining (of course) and it was humid as hell which is not the norm in Southern California. It was Jeff's shift and as we watched the boats on AIS and with our eyes we noticed one container ship was making it's way out of the port just as another with a tug in tow was heading in and we seemed to be the little guy in the middle. According the plotter we had over 500 yards which if you think about 5 football fields it seemed like more then enough for us but doubting our course and our eyes playing tricks on us decided to slow down allowing both ships to pass by. Well, the outbound ship did not like this and laid on the horn so loud that I screamed. It scared me and took me by surprise. Jeff veered hard to port out of the way and watched as both ships passed by. Good Morning Long Beach. 

With Long Beach in the rear view mirror (if one existed) we made our way into Alameda Bay around 1300 just in time to meet with Nacho and pick up the flopper stoppers he made for us. We were really excited to see them and get them onboard. After some adjustments were made they were hoisted on the flybridge and secured and we could make our way to Catalina in the morning. That was more then enough action for one day for us. We took a peaceful stroll around the canals, made dinner and went to sleep early. 

Watch Out!

Long Beach Light 

Port of Long Beach 

Cruise Ships Anchored Long Beach

Business complete and west coast cruise nearly over it was time for some rest and relaxation and what better place to do that then in Catalina. We threw lines promptly at 0800 and joined the parade of boats heading to Catalina. Once again we had to cruise through the freighter anchorage which wasn't fun but with the mainland astern and Two Harbors in sight we immediately started to feel relaxed. Not too soon after that feeling came it quickly left. We noticed a go fast boat inching closer and closer to us. Wondering what their intentions were we hailed them on the radio and got no answer. As they inched closer and closer we were baffled as to what the hell they were thinking. Again we hailed them and got no response. At one point we were so close we could see the guy throw his hands up in the air as if we had done something wrong. We again hailed with no answer. I had had it. I went outside and made a phone sign with my  thumb and pinky finger indicating a phone and put it to my ear and pointing to him. Finally he understood and we called him for the fourth time and he sheepishly answered Jeff's call. We explained we had been hailing him for a good 10 minutes and wanted to know what his intentions were. He apologized, slowed and passed us astern. Jeez. We needed to get moored asap. People are wild out here. Upon arrival the harbor patrol met us and assigned us our mooring ball which coincidently was right next to another DeFever our friends Ron and Cheryl on Lazy Days. Perfect. Mooring went smoothly and it was as if we had just done it. Like riding a bike. After we got secured we said hello to Ron and Cheryl and made a plan to have cocktails later. Shew! Time to relax. Finally. 

Approaching Two Harbors

Moored Next to Lazy Days

It was great catching up with Ron and Cheryl and after sundowners on their boat Jeff and I continued on to shore and had dinner outside at the bar and listened to some music and watched the dancers. Good old Two Harbors it's always the same which felt comforting and familiar. 

We slept in the next morning. It was nice not to have to go anywhere. We made breakfast and decided to get a little walk in before it got too hot. Dingy got us to shore and we walked around the perimeter checking out the other mooring fields and also Cat Harbor. I forgot that there are zero trees or shade on the walk and I was really ready for a break from the sun. We made our way back to the boat and spent a relaxing afternoon on board taking in the mooring field and the views. Later that night we went to shore and had dinner with Ron and Cheryl at the waterfront restaurant. Good drinks, good food and good friends felt so nice after cruising so long alone. We felt so happy to be with other cruiser and especially ones who have such extensive knowledge about Mexico and the Panama canal. It was the perfect end to a couple of good day at Two Harbors. 

Two Harbors Mooring Field 

Tidings of Joy

Taking a Walk 

After two days with Ron and Cheryl it was time to move along down the island to Avalon, what we call the big city. The 13 mile cruise was easy and we enjoyed seeing the island and all the different anchorages we once spent time at when we circumnavigated the island several years ago. When we arrived we were assigned ball 212 the exact same we had been on in years past next to a moored ball owner Lucky Duck who sticks a stuffed animal duck out of his port window. Another transient boat to our starboard was filled with a bunch of old frat boys looking like they were trying to relive their glory days. They were shouting and taking shots and at one point a guy walked on deck buck naked. Not the relaxing time I had in mind but luckily they pulled out shortly after noon. Thank god. We decided to just laze around the boat and not head into town until tomorrow. We read, swam, napped and just soaked in our new surroundings. 

Goodbye Ron

Cruising to Avalon 

Avalon Casino in Distance 

Approaching Avalon 

Avalon Mooring Field 

Night Time Mooring Field 

There was a huge heat wave hitting all of southern California and today was supposed to be 90 degrees. For some reason we thought we could beat the heat and walk early enough that it wouldn't effect us. Big mistake. In the past we've enjoyed walking to the top of the hill to the old Wrigley mansion and enjoying the view. Tourist who come by ferry rent golf carts and drive this route. So we made our way. Holy Hotness 10 minutes in and we were sweating our assess off. At one point walking uphill a lady on an electric bike shouted, "I'm impressed." As I got hotter I got crabbier and at one point thought I was having a stroke (heat) and had to stop for air several times but somehow we made it. On the way back down I started talking to Jeff and it sounded like I was speaking in tongues and Jeff just looked at me confused. Get this girl inside in the air conditioning. After much time inside and a regular core temperature we took a dink ride around the mooring field to scope out the rest of the boats and eventually into town after sunset to stroll and see the town. It looked like we remembered it and we enjoyed pointing out and remembering the familiar haunts. 

Walking in the Heat-Top of Avalon 

Avalon 

Avalon at Night 

The next four days would be much of the same — long lazy mornings followed by swimming or going into town and lazing around on the boat reading and napping. Catalina is a lazy, relaxing island full of charm and a paradise for boaters. It really was a great way to conclude our 1,000 plus mile journey south and a nice distraction for what was to come, the end and arrival in our homeport. 

Catching Up With Chitlins in California

 Holy humidity! As we threw lines at Oxnard at 0630 it was already thick and pasty with humidity. Are you sure we are in California? Our 5 hour cruise was easy with tons of dolphins accompanying us and we timed it perfectly to arrive at Burton Chase Park in Marina Del Rey with Izzy and Ingrid's plane which landed at 12:30. The plan was for them to come right to the marina to see us and then all go to lunch. We couldn't have timed it better. As we secured the lines Izzy was calling saying he was en route. We had a nice visit with them  and showed Ingrid the boat. We decided to bring lunch in at their house so we could relax and spend more time together. Izzy's house has really come along since he purchased it last year and we were excited to see all the new additions. We spent the afternoon chatting and catching up and waited for Sam to finish work. Dinner was at Pura Vida a vegan pizza and pasta restaurant. It was delicious and it was great being around another vegan who chose all the restaurants according to our dietary needs. Not usually the case when it's just Jeff and I. Sam met us and the four of us had a long leisurely dinner with lots of laughs. 

Leaving Oxnard 

Venice 

Entering Marina Del Rey 

Burton Chase Park Marina 

Izzy & Ingrid Arrive 

Full and exhausted we said goodnight to Izzy and Sam drove us back to the marina where she would sleep over since she had the next two days off of work. We enjoyed a very slow morning which worked perfectly for all three of us. Sometime before lunch we made our way into Venice and went to a vegan market that Sam knew and got deli sandwiches and perused the cute market full of vegan food. We enjoyed sitting outside and eating on the patio and chowed down on our sandwiches. After we strolled along the boardwalk of Venice which was quite disgusting. The boardwalk was covered in sand and everything around it felt dirty and seedy and wasn't the picturesque beaches we have been used to. The area in general makes you feel like you want to shower immediately. Sam was nice enough to take us to Whole Foods for some fresh food provisions before returning to the boat. Izzy and Ingrid joined us a little later for some Thai Vegan dinner and it was nice to all be together not at a restaurant where we could relax and enjoy each others company without feeling rushed or pressured to leave. Since it was a work night Izzy and Ingrid left after dinner and Sam slept over a second night. 

With Sam at Burton Chase 

Walking Around Venice Beach 

Sam Spotted a Cute Dog 

Dinner on the Tidings of Joy 

Izzy is in the tech industry and conveniently has an office in Marina Del Rey within walking distance to the marina. This morning he stopped by with bagels for him and Jeff to have a nice bagels and lox breakfast before he made his way into work. Sam slept and I drank coffee and once again it felt good to go slowly. Izzy headed into work and then at some point the three of us made our way to a vegan restaurant called Squirrel. I swear all we did in Los Angles was eat and catch up. Or catch up and eat. Afterwards Sam went to a dance class and we attempted to walk around her neighborhood and I got a coffee which was a big mistake because it was so bloody hot I thought I was having a stroke. We heavily made our way back to her appointment where the only air conditioning unit is a single wall unit only in the living room so Jeff and I blasted it laying on her floor cause she has no furniture and waited for her class to be over. We grabbed vegan furniture food from Cena a place hidden in an unmarked warehouse that was excellent. Sat at a park alongside a freeway (a long way from our beautiful Seattle parks) and ate our dinner. 

Laying in Sam's Hot Apartment 

The next day which would be our last in Los Angles was another hot one. And when I say hot I'm not whining that we aren't in the PNW anymore it's 95 plus degrees with zero breeze and no shade. It has been mind blowing to me the lack of trees and shade in Los Angeles. I guess I either forgot or we were so spoiled up north to have plentiful shady walks and abundant parks with views. Walking this morning to see Izzy's office was torchere. Jeff was constantly wiping his brow with his sweat towel and me looking for shade trying not to pass out. We arrived red faced and dripping with sweat. Izzy showed us around giving us a grand tour of his nice new office. We were amazed at the size and all the fun amenities such as two slides and a fully stocked kitchen for all the employees to use. At some point after cooling down in the nice a.c. we said our goodbyes and made our way back to the boat to finish up laundry and get ready for our departure in the morning. After Izzy finished work he swung by to pick us up and take us to our final dinner together at Avant Garden a fun vegan outdoor restaurant full of fake plants and trees making you feel you are dining in a wild garden. The food was great and the company better and it was a perfect capper to a nice four days in Los Angeles.

 

Izzy's Office 

Touring Izzy's Office 

Izzy in his Office 

Diner at Avant Garden 

Our Table Avant Garden