Beautiful Boquete

 Still riding the high of the canal crossing we spent the week hanging with friends and watching as other friends too completed their canal crossing. We looked anxiously for a weather window to get out to the San Blas Islands but the Christmas winds and boat breakdowns had other plans for us. While we waited on weather and mechanics to fix our coolant leek and replace missing bolts from the starboard shaft we decided to take a trip to Boquete. We always intended to visit there but due to a heavy travel schedule during the off season it never happened. This was our chance. Jeff booked some last minute flights out of Panama City to David, Brigadoon gave us the name of their driver who could take us to the airport and I had chat gbt create a five day itinerary for us and we were set. 

On Monday January 13th the driver was promptly waiting for us at noon in the parking lot and once more we drug our bags to the car. The drive to the city was uneventful and within an hour and twenty minutes we were at the airport. The flight much like the drive was only a little over an hour to David where we picked up our rental car and made another hour drive to Boquete. Situated 4,000 feet above sea level the quaint mountain town with its cool breeze and its green lush highlands immediately drew us in. We arrived at the Panamonte hotel just as it was getting dark and checked into our room. The grounds were filled with beautiful gardens which were perfectly maintained. Our room was charming and had a relaxing laid back feel. We had just enough time to unpack, settle in and change before heading to Tach, the hotel restaurant for our seven thirty reservation. Like the hotel the restaurant was charming and I was excited to try Chef Justin Campbell's restaurant. Some reviews said it was the best in all of Boquete and our meal didn't disappoint. I had a veggie platter then vegetable fried rice and Jeff had ceviche and plank salmon which he said was the best he's ever had. Washed down with cocktails and wine it felt like the perfect start to our getaway. 

Heading to Panama City

Gardens at the Hotel 

Dinner at Tach 

We both slept great in our king size bed which felt so luxuriously after having a queen on the boat. We had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel before walking into town. Both chat gbt and our friend Patty said to make sure we hit the Tuesday local market for spices and other local goods. The walk into town was easy and nice and cool. Little did we know that in addition to the Tuesday market there was also a flower festive happening. For two dollars and fifty cents you could stroll around and see these beautiful flower gardens. So we did both. I found some spices that I haven't been able to find since leaving the states, think fenugreek and garam masala. I was quite happy and chatted it up with the spice guy for a while too. The flowers were really pretty and lots of people were out admiring them. For lunch we ended up going to this wellness spa where I thought we were going to a vegan restaurant but it was closed and we went to the main restaurant on property which also had several vegan items along with stunning views of the green covered mountains. It felt so peaceful and relaxing. We both had salads while basking in the view. 

Flower Festival 

At the Flower Festival 

Lunch at Sabor Escondido 

After our nice lunch we made our way back to the hotel where a shuttle from Don Pepe Coffee tours was to pick us up and take us to their facility for a coffee tour. At 1:30 the bus promptly picked us up and we sat among other tourist all ready for coffee and speaking English. We've been on coffee tours in every country we have been in since Mexico and yet this one was unique. First we went into the tasting area where we were each given four cups of grounds which we poured hot water on then with a spoon quickly slurped each one into our mouths. It was such a bizarre way to taste coffee but you got the full effect. Sounds of rapid slurps filled the air as we voted on which coffee we liked the best. Every coffee producer in Boquete is proud of their Geisha coffee which is unique to the area and is more black tea like then coffee but wasn't something that either of us enjoyed despite being told how great and special this diva was. We bought our three bags and then the tour began. We walked through the fields and saw the coffee plants then were shown a variety of beans in different stages of life, we saw the drying areas and the sorting and washing plant before returning to the bus. Our guide was funny and did a lot of shtick to keep us all entertained. 

Coffee Tasting 

Coffee Pickers 

Guide Explaining  Coffee Process 

Coffee Beans Drying 

Coffee Processing Area

Tour the Fields

After a very extensive three plus hour tour we were driven back to the hotel where we took a nice rest before dinner. That evening we walked into town to Retrogusto for dinner. This place got good reviews and chat gbt recommended it so we were hopeful. When I said to the waiter in Spanish that I was vegan and could he help me with some menu items his response was, "oh my god!" This didn't leave me feeling very confident and I concocted my own menu of pasta with veggies. Jeff had some fish he said was dry and not that great. Very blah all around but hey they can't all be winners. 

Diner at Retrogusto 

The next morning we woke up to pouring rain which I love but makes doing outdoor activities that much more challenging. We had our leisurely breakfast at the hotel then decided to drive to the volcano. For some reason we thought driving ourselves and walking would be better than taking the 4x4 tour. In retrospect I would have taken the tour. We made our way up to the parking lot then decided to walk the steep, muddy and rocky road to the volcano. With my backpack and umbrella I grumpily started hiking uphill while bitching. We got as far as the rangers station before deciding this muddy boulder walk was not for us. Instead we took a nice scenic drive into the mountains admiring the landscape and the charming house/cottages. At lunchtime we decided on a place called Big Daddy's which had a few vegan items which is always a draw for me. When we arrived we noticed several tables of older ex-pats having lunch and enjoying themselves. The scenery was charming and had the feeling of being in a tree house. The rain continued to fall and we watched several cats sleeping on the chairs and couches near the dining area. I had a veggie burger and Jeff a fish sandwich. Both we were just ok but the entertainment far exceeded the food. As the ex-pats finished their lunch they began busing their own tables and moving them all around before one older gentleman stood up and made some sort of announcement before cards and boxes appeared. We are guessing they were playing bridge or some game like that and multiple tables began breaking off into sets of four. I swear it felt like we were at a senior citizens center and not a restaurant. Odd. I was on the hunt for coffee so we found Morton's bakery where Jeff could get a pastry and I a cup of coffee. I guess it was jewish owned cause Jeff got a rugelach which he seemed pleased with. Coffee was just ok. 

Muddy Volcano Walk

Lunch at Big Daddy's aka Senior Citizen Center 

Cats Sleeping at Big Daddy's 

After coffee and dessert we decided we wanted to explore a bit more before going back to the hotel and we stumbled upon this river walk across the bridge from our hotel. The walk was pretty short as most of it was blocked off by a big digger. We were amazed at the work being done as we watched in fascination a digger loading huge boulders into a rock truck and driving it in and out of the river. I feel like a little kid as Jeff took lots of pictures. From there it was back to the hotel to rest before dinner. 

River Walk 

Before going to dinner at Christopher's we wanted to take advantage of our beautiful hotel and made our way to the bar for happy hour. We sat by a beautiful boulder lined fireplace while sipping an Aperol spritz and an old fashioned. It was quaint and charming and felt cozy and secure in the mountains. And just when I thought Tach was going to be our favorite restaurant Christopher's snuck in as the new hot shot in town. We walked the short block down the hill and were greeted by a charming host who doubled as our waiter. We were taken outside where our table over looked the trees which were beautifully illuminated for ambiance. Having already had our cocktails we opted for wine and were somehow talked into getting our own bottles as it was good value. Cool jazz played throughout the restaurant and it just had a laid back cool vibe. Where were we? I had a big delicious veggie salad to start and Jeff had ceviche. Both excellent. For dinner I had roasted cauliflower with veggies  and homemade potato chips and Jeff had prawns.  Again outstanding. We were very impressed by the quality of the food and the attentiveness of the waiter. There was no vegan dessert so we paid our bill and made our way outside. The owner was outside waiting to thank us for our business and apologized for not have a vegan dessert for me and told me if/when I come back they would. It was a nice touch to a wonderful evening. 

Hotel Bar

Drinks at the Bar

Dinner at Christopher's 

View From Christopher's 

Roasted Cauliflower 

The next day we needed to work off some of these big meals we've been indulging in and opted to hike the pipeline trail. We were told it was easier than the famous three waterfalls trail. After breakfast at the hotel we drove to the hike. As you enter a lady and her daughter meet you to sign in and pay the fee. Jeff liked that they kept track of us in case we didn't make it back out. The trail was well maintained and very green and lush and gorgeous and the continuous incline wasn't that bad. There were a few bridges and some water crossing but nothing too extreme. The waterfall at the end was a great reward after our efforts. We stopped for a bit and drank water and took in the scene. It was a great way to start the day. 

Starting the Pipeline Trail

Pipeline 

100 Year Old Tree On Pipeline Trail 

Waterfall at End of Pipeline 

After Pipeline we were starving and ready to tuck into some lunch. I found a place called Dobo which had vegan options for me. It was part of a hotel and the restaurant had trees growing all around it and felt really open and nice. I had a veggie wrap and Jeff had shrimp spaghetti. The food was good but the service was pretty lousy. We were pretty wiped out from the hike and lunch so we returned to the hotel. When Jeff booked our room it said it was only available 4 of our 5 nights. When he later looked on Expedia it showed the honeymoon suite available which he booked for our final night. So after lunch we got our bags and were moved to the suite. It came with an outdoor fireplace and a huge jacuzzi tub which we promptly got into. It was a huge room and it felt really luxurious and special. After naps and jacuzzi we got ready for our last dinner and sat outside in front of our fireplace and drank some wine. It was so great having our own fireplace. It felt intimate and cozy. 

Our final dinner was at a place called The Rock which was recommended to us by friends and chat gbt. We took a cab there since we had and would continue to have some drinks. When we arrived a three piece band was playing classic rock and it felt fun and like a party. I had a salad and roasted cauliflower and Jeff had ceviche and sea bass. Everything was excellent and at the end we were given a huge marshmallow to roast on a fire they had lit behind the restaurant. It was a nice touch and a great way to end our time in Boquete. 

View at Dobo 

Jacuzzi Tub

The Honeymoon Suite 

Our Private Fireplace

Dinner at The Rock

Band Playing at The Rock 

Marshmellow Dessert 

The next morning we enjoyed our final breakfast at the hotel and soaked up the last of our honeymoon suite before packing up and driving back to to David to take our flight back to Panama City where our same driver would drive us back to the the marina at Shelter Bay. It was a wonderful trip filled with good weather, beautiful mountain scenery and great food. Very happy we made the trek to Boquete. 

Goodbye Panamonte Hotel 

The Panama Canal

 Finally the day we had been anticipating, planning and contemplating was finally here- our passage through the Panama Canal. Jeff had hired our agent months in advance and after measurements were taken, fees paid and endless questions answered it was time. I had been stressing over menu ideas on what to feed the workers who would be helping us, comparing menus with other boaters who had gone through before us and anxious that they would be disappointed by my vegan offerings, I let it go and we provisioned. On January 5th the day prior to our passage I spent 8 hours in the galley prepping food for that night and the following day. Our agent told us to make sure we had enough food for 5-6 people (Jeff, myself, three line handlers and an advisor) for two days in case we weren't able to make it through the canal in one day and had to anchor in the lake. This usually only pertains to sailboats who can't maintain speed to keep up with fast freighters but I did as I was told. 

At 7:30pm on January 5th Juan, Jr. and Nic our trusty line handlers (I was handler number 4 of the required 4 by the canal) arrived at our boat stocked with 4-150 foot lines (required by canal) and also huge ball fenders, also required by the canal that we rented from our agent. They immediacy threw everything on the bow like it was nothing. They entered the boat and politely made their introductions shaking our hands professionally. I asked if they were hungry and everyone said yes and I began seating them and plating their dinner. I made salmon en crute, mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli. This was our dinner as well. I wanted to make sure everyone was well fed for the big day ahead. The men seemed appreciative  and we chatted while they at their dinner. Jeff and I ate before their arrival. Once dinner was completed Juan helped us call the Flamenco Station via radio to let them know we were ready for our passage the next day. They acknowledge us and confirmed and told us to be between buoys 3 and 4 by 4:30am to pick up our advisor and make our transit. We thanked them and said goodnight. All boats 65 feet and under are required by the canal to have an advisor on board during your transit. This person acts as the go liaison between the boat and the canal. He or she also does all the communication with the workers at the lock. After completing our required call to the Flamenco station we showed the line handlers  to their bunks and said our goodnights as we were all getting up at 3am for our 3:30 departure from the dock. 

Cooking Away in the Galley

Line Handlers Arrive with Lines & Fenders

Juan, Jr & Nic Having Dinner Onboard 

I don't think either of us slept much that night. We were both so excited and gitty and ready for our passage. We set our alarm for 2:30am for our 3:30 departure. I had the coffee pot set to brew at 2:45 to make sure we all had coffee before starting out. I woke up ecstatic. Let's go! Despite not having slept much I was ready to see what this day beheld. We quickly got dressed and heard the men stirring as well. I laid out muffins and bananas incase anyone needed immediate food before I served breakfast. Like clockwork sometime between 3:15 and 3:30 me and the guys were throwing lines and heading out to meet the advisor. It was pitch black so Jeff chose to drive from the fly bridge for better vision. We crept around the corner toward the Playita anchorage and hovered just floating until our advisor arrived via pilot boat. Almost exactly at 0430 we saw a pilot boat heading straight at us and knew this must be the advisor. The line handlers got fenders in position to intercept the advisor. Our boat holds steady and the pilot boat maneuvers around us to get close enough for the advisor to jump aboard. The transition was smooth and flawless. The line handlers all welcomed Francisco (our advisor) with handshakes and hellos and I did the same. Francisco was tall and lanky and didn't seem too enthused to be coming aboard. Little did we know the foreshadowing which was occurring. Francisco stood with me in the pilot house not wanting to sit or have coffee or anything. He brought his own handheld radio which he used to communicate with the lock. I explained Jeff, the captain was up top in order to see better. He didn't respond. Instead he told orders to me which I conveyed to Jeff via headset. I thought this was a little strange that he didn't go up top to see Jeff, introduce himself or give advice. Somehow I was the go between. As we approached Mira Flores lock (lock number 1 of 3) two tugs were coming out of the lock after positioning the freighter we would lock with. Francisco told me to tell Jeff to turn to port for a starboard to starboard passage with the tug. I did. As Francisco was speaking with the tug via radio he told them we would be passing starboard to starboard and the tug said no port to port. Francisco again tried to tell them starboard to starboard as they got closer and closer. The tug refused as they have the right away as a working canal boat and next thing I know Francisco is shouting at me turn to starboard turn to starboard and I'm conveying this to Jeff via headset as he does so the tug just misses us by feet. This was nuts and I was in disbelief at what had just happened. At this point we are pulling into the lock and I need to go outside to handle by line. I ask Francisco if he wants my headset in order to communicate with Jeff and he sighs and just says no I will go up top. So weird. At this point Jeff is so pissed at this advisor he has yet to meet that when he finally comes up to the flybridge he can't even look at him. I make my way to the bow with the three guys as monkey fists start flying at us. Monkey fists are hard round balls at the end of the lines the canal workers throw to/at you to catch that we adhere to our own lines and then send back to them. I sware it felt like they were aiming them at us and not to us. The guys thankfully caught them all and Jr. tied my bowline for me and we all maned our positions. I was port bow, Jr starboard bow, Nic port stern and Juan starboard stern. The first two locks - Mira Flores and Pedro Miguel you lock up meaning the entire time water is pouring into the lock you are constantly tightening your line in order to keep the boat in position. We were positioned center canal, using all four lines behind the freighter Grace. 

Pilot Boat Approaching 

Offloading Francisco to Us

Freighter Grace Heading to the Mira Flores Lock 

Following Grace to Mira Flores 

Passing Port of Balboa 

In Mira Flores Lock with Grace

Jeff at the Helm in Mira Flores Lock 

 Mira Flores Behind Grace

Screen Shot of Tidings of Joy in Mira Flores Lock 

Nothing in the canal moves very quickly. Before we could even enter Mira Flores or our next lock Pedro Miguel, Grace had to be in position and secured before we were called in then once we were in position the lock doors closed and the water began to pour in. The distance between our first lock Mira Flores and Pedro Miguel was less then a mile and just enough time to take a breath then get ready to do it again. By this time the sun was out and we could see around. It was quiet and peaceful. As we made our way to Pedro Miguel me and the linelhandlers once again took our positions on the bow while monkey fists were hurled at us. Several hit the roof of the pilot house and we  were worried they were going to take out our interments. Several boater have mentioned damaged solar panels from the blunt force of the monkey fists hitting it. To me it felt like a game the canal workers were playing like they were trying to hit and take out various parts of the boat. Fortunately again Nic, Juan and Jr. caught them all. Jr and I made our way up to the bow and began puling in our lines as Jeff kept the boat in position. I was so nieve thinking oh I've done hundreds of locks on the great loop I will be experienced and good at this. Boy was I wrong. These lines were fat and intense and the current from not only the lock but the prop wash from Grace kept me tugging hard on my line. At one point I was struggling to get it tighten enough in time that Jr. came over and secured it for me. I should have worn gloves as my hands were torn up but noticed none of the guys were so I didn't want to be the girl who had to wear gloves. Big mistake. 

Cruising to Pedro Miguel Lock Behind Grace

Grace Entering Pedro Miguel 

In Pedro Miguel with Grace 

After Pedro Miguel we said goodbye to Grace as she hit the gas and left us in her dust. By this time Francisco and Jeff had barely spoken and we didn't know what to expect. Lucky for us the line handers were amazing and really were our real advisors. Juan mentioned that our third and final lock Gatun wouldn't be for 5 or so hours. That was my cue to switch roles and hit the galley. As the guys were cleaning up the lines I began making breakfast. On the menu were breakfast sandwiches, hash browns, mixed fruit, orange juice and coffee. By this time (roughly 9am) we were all starving and ready to tuck in. The guys all ate around the table and I took Jeff and Fernando theirs in the fly bridge. The guys all ate seconds the hit their rack for a much needed nap. At some point Jeff came inside to drive in the pilothouse and in the a.c. and I again switched rolls and gave him a break from the helm. The boat was quiet and still as we enjoyed our ride through Lake Gatun. 

Bridge of the Americas 

Waterfall in Lake Gatun 

Cruising Lake Gatun 

Lots of Traffic In The Lake 

Happy In The Canal 

So at some point Francisco decided to take a break from staring at his phone and tell Jeff to slow way down because for our next and final lock Gatun we were  waiting on a freighter who would catch up with us and lock through. He told Jeff we would enter at approximately 1:30pm. This told me too that I should plan to have lunch ready by noon so we would have adequate time to eat and for me to clean up before we approached the lock. Coincidently right outside Gatun Lock were my aunt and uncle who happened to be on a Princess cruise that was doing a partial canal transition at the exact same time and exact same location as us. We would hover right next to their boat for an hour before we were told to enter the lock. So crazy. As noon approached once again I hit the galley to start reheating the veggie enchiladas and rice and beans I had made the previous day. I would serve this with a fresh garden salad. By noon on the dot I was plating and serving the guys, Jeff and Francisco. Everyone seemed happy with it and full. When I offered them mini cupcakes and Carmel chocolate bar for dessert Juan's response was, "what is this my birthday?" I said yes happy birthday and laid the desserts on the counter for them to take as they desired. Jeff had his immediately. Finally we saw the Virgen de la Auroa arriving and knew it was almost time to enter our final lock Gatun. For this lock instead of following the freighter in we would go in first. After hovering for an hour waiting we were ready. Francisco told Jeff to go and we entered taking our positions as we had in the previous two locks on the bow. The monkey fists were much more gentle here. Instead of flying at our faces they were more lobbed and even I caught one. We secured our position and waited as this giant freighter entered behind us looking like it was going to run us over. It was intense to witness and we all watched in amazement. This time we would lock down to the Caribbean Sea. Going down is so much easier line handling wise than going up. It's a gentle letting out of water and as you are high atop a mountain of water our job was to just pay out a little bit of line as we got lower down. And the view from the top was amazing. We all preferred it. 

Uncle Mark & Aunt Alba's Cruise Ship Next to Us

Virgen de la Auroa Approaching Gatun Lock 

Entering Gatun Lock

In Position 

The Virgen Coming in Behind Us

Jeff in Gatun Lock 

Door Opening to Let Us Into Chamber 2 Gatun Lock

Chamber 2 Gatun Lock

Screen Shot Tidings of Joy in Gatun Locks 

Sometime during the second and third chamber of Gatun it started to rain and then to pour and Jr. and I retreated for our raincoats and hats. Jr and Juan preferred to go shirtless and enjoy the swim. 

3rd Chamber Gatun- Pouring

3rd and Final Chamber of Gatun Opening- End Panama Canal

As we realeased the lines from the 3rd and final chamber of Gatun and made our way into the Caribbean I turned around and looked at Jeff at the helm and began jumping up and down and giving him a thumbs up. We did it!!! We went through the Panama Canal in our own boat. I felt like I could cry but didn't. As we made our way out Francisco began calling his pilot boat to pick him up. Thankfully not too much after that the boat came and he was on his way. Good riddance to a terrible advisor. 

Leaving the Canal 

Good Riddance Francisco 

From the rally point of dropping off Francisco we would have an hour cruise left before getting to Shelter Bay Marina. The rain continued and now Juan took over as advisor showing Jeff where to go to cut over from the shipping channel and avoiding a reef. Thank god for Juan and the line-handlers they really made all the difference in our experience. Everyone was wonderful. As we approached Shelter Bay I got on the radio and got our slip assignment and confirmed our location. At this point Juan said to me, "now you're in charge, tell us how you want things boss" which I found amusing but appropriate. How nice to have experienced deck hands on board who actually know what they are doing and do their jobs well. As we made our way into the marina Juan and I stood on the bow looking out for our dock while Jr and Nic manned the stern. I immediately spotted our friend Kurtis on Summer Breeze who was out filming our arrival. Juan and I both gave him a huge two armed wave and I started feeling gitty to be reunited with our friends again. We made our way to our slip I saw Dietmar the founder of our Ocean Posse at our slip along with Rob from Avant another co-founder all there to welcome us in. We had so much help and comradely at the dock I was a bit overwhelmed. Me and the line handlers got lines tightened up and I connected the power with Jeff all the while getting drenched from rain. We were here. We had made it. Our transit of the canal was over and we were safely tied up in our slip at our marina. Finally I could exhale and a storm of emotions washed over me from gratitude to excitement to pride. It was all there. We thanked and hugged the line handers and gave them a tip before they took the rental lines and fenders and made their way to the parking lot where Erick our agent picked them up. We went about business as usual- me filling out my log book, charging the handheld radio and headset batteries, and putting things from the galley back in place. As soon as it was quiet and settled Jeff and I cracked a bottle of champagne and cheers'd our successful transit while reviewing the days highlights. As some point during this we heard a tap on the side of the boat and it was Dietmar coming over to congratulate us on a successful passage. We invited him in and poured him some champagne as well. We felt honored that our leader (and now friend) would come over and wish us congrats. We were very anxious (despite being totally sleep deprived and delirious) to connect with our good friends Kurtis and Sam and Doug and Patty and made a plan to meet them at the restaurant for dinner. We had long drawn out hugs and shots to celebrate. After dinner we came back to our boat and drank a lot of rum and just felt really good about not only our amazing accomplishment of transiting the canal but also our reunion with our friends who we missed dearly. 

Approaching Shelter Bay Marina 

Saying Goodbye to the Awesome Line-handlers 

Celebratory Cheers With Dietmar 

Tucked in Nicely at Shelter Bay Marina 

Three Amigos Reunited