This week would begin the end of our cruising days in Alaska. For our final bit of exploration we would make our way around the West side of Prince of Wales Island then round the southern tip en route to Ketchikan where we would stage to head back south to the Pudge Sound and eventually Seattle. Emotions were high and we tried to stay present as much as possible soaking in the last bits of amazing scenery and vast wilderness.
The day we left Wrangell for Red Bay it was as if the weather knew how we felt. It rained the entire cruise and the seas were one to three feet. Eventually we made it to our anchorage, dropped the hook and settled in to stare, read and look around.
Our Route - For Brian
The next morning the rain had let up to a light drizzle and we proceeded around the Northwest corner of Prince of Wales Island to our next anchorage Hole-In-The-Wall. Underway we saw a whale who got so close to the starboard side of the boat I had to put it in neutral to make sure we wouldn't hit it. We saw lots of fishing boats out and about. It's the height of salmon fishing season here in Alaska and there are many different types of boats all out fishing for them. The anchorage was gorgeous with lots of fish jumping out of the water. Eagles, otters and a kingfisher was here as well.
Hole-in-the-Wall
Narrow Entrance Hole-in-the-Wall
Hole-in-the-Wall
Entering Hole-in-the-Wall
Anchored
Kingfisher on the rail
The animal viewing was vast and greatly entertaining. The following morning while waiting on high tide to leave we spotted a wolf on shore. Not sure what it was at first and examining it in the binoculars we figured it out. We first thought it was a stray dog but then remembered there are no houses here or for many many miles. Our first wolf. Very exciting!
Wolf spotted and high tide we upanchored and set out for Devilfish Bay through El Capitan passage. The cruise was uneventful except for the sighting of two whales in the pass. When we arrived we found another tug boat already anchored but found more then enough room to spread out and have our own space. Another stunner. We made dinner and looked forward to heading into Craig in the morning.
Opening Devilfish Bay
Entering Devilfish Bay
Devilfish Bay
Tug in Devilfish Bay
Anchored Devilfish Bay
Tug Devilfish Bay
For years Jeff and I have heard about the town of Craig. Known as a fishing village but also catering to cruising boats we were eager to check it out. The 57 mile cruise south was stunning and reminded us of cruising through Canada during the loop with lots of little islands and inner water passages and narrows. The weather was overcast but the mood was bright. The harbormaster was more then helpful when we called and even came down to the transient dock to make sure we had everything we needed. He also told us we were lucky to arrive when we did because the Purse Seine fishing fleet would arrive after midnight when their derby fishing time was up and it would be so full we wouldn't recognize the place. After our chat we walked into town checking out a variety of stores, gift shops, bars and restaurants. For a small place (1,200 residents) it had a lot of things to see and do. We bought several items at the gift shops: chocolates, work gloves, salsa, you know the essentials. When we arrived back at the boat Jeff went immediately to the pilothouse to work on the following days route while I sat outside taking in the view and met a nice man from Port Townsend, Washington. Basically our neighbor in Seattle. He told me that the previous night he had been tied up right where we were but asked to move because the Purse Seiners were coming in and they could raft to your boat and it would get to be 5 boats deep rafted up. Immediately I was on high alert and anxious about being rafted to and therefor trapped on the dock.
The next morning would be an early departure and thank god it was because like Port Townsend guy had said it was getting nuts in the marina. Ahead of us on the dock was a raft up of 5 Seiners and as we were throwing lines another Seiner hovered around us as if they were getting ready to raft to us. Shew! Out in just the nick of time.
Stern View- Craig
From Dock- Craig
Walking in Craig
Craig Marina
Seiner Fleet Raft Up
Transient Dock - Craig
Logs to Avoid
Craig
Seiners off the stern we continued our journey south towards a beautiful anchorage we both chose called Nichols Bay. It was at the southern most tip of Prince of Wales and would be our last stop before heading into Ketchikan. We had noticed that a big blow was coming in the following day and we were going to have some seas - 5-6 footers until we rounded Dixon Entrance and got a further up Clarence Strait towards Ketchikan. During my shift at the helm Jeff studied weather and winds and looked vigorously at the charts finally proclaiming, "I have an idea but just hear me out." I hate that kind of intro to a conversation. It automatically makes me think I'm not going to like it and boy was I right. Jeff proceeded to tell me that due to the upcoming weather that it was imperative that we round the corner from Dixon and get into Clarence Strait or tomorrow would be miserable for hours. This would only add on one more hour to our already long 11 hour day. I immediately I was defensive since I had been looking forward to our gorgeous anchorage that day and being exhausted from the early morning departure and long cruising day but after some thought agreed.
The anchorage Jeff had chosen (Mclean Arm) had only one comment on active captain by a fake account and not much else was said in our Douglass Guidebook so I was skeptical. Usually we research, ask around and put a lot of time into choosing our anchorages. Today this was not the case. Finally we rounded the southern corner of Prince of Wales and shortly after entered Mclean Arm- a very long and wide open fairway leading to a dent of an anchorage. It didn't look like much at all just a small notch towards rocky land. And it was deep too- 300 feet until 100 feet from shore where it finally dropped to 50 feet. The bottom was rocky and it took over 20 minutes for us to get caught and feel somewhat secure. I was not happy but tired to focus on the smoother ride we would have tomorrow and good wind protection tonight.
We continuously looked out the window keeping a diligent eye on shore and our proximity to it while we listened to the sounds of the anchor scraping along on the rocks below. We (or I should say I) went to sleep around 10. Jeff was unable to sleep from all the scarping sounds jolting him awake until finally at 2a.m. I hear, "Pooter get up the anchor is dragging!" I thrust myself out of bed and still sleeping ran up to the pilothouse to see what was going on. Jeff had all the systems fired up and the spotlight on trying to see shore. The anchor path on navionics showed us extremely close to shore and out of our previous anchor circle. When we looked outside through the spotlight all we could see was thick pea soup fog with rain coming through it and nothing else. It was very disorienting and we had no idea (by looking outside) where we were. We both stood staring at the radar and anchor track and continued to try and scan the shore with the spotlight with no luck. Jeff determined we needed to take anchor watches the rest of the night and volunteered to take the first 2:30-4:30a.m. shift. I clumsily stumbled back to bed where I nervously tossed and turned until it was my shift (4:30-6:30a.m.). Jeff hit the rack and I began nervously watching instruments and the now the slightly visible shore. During shift change briefing Jeff told me to keep an eye on a floating tree which was getting dangerously close to the boat. I was on high alert constantly looking outside, to the instruments and the floating tree. The shift dragged on and when Jeff woke up for shift change I told him to go back to sleep because there was no way I could sleep anymore. Two cups of coffee in, the tree gone and light out I decided everything was going to be okay.
Jeff arose sometime after 8 and I was more then ready to get out here. The anchor recaught itself sometime in the night and we were secure enough despite the shore being so close. After breakfast we pulled up a clean anchor and said good riddance to what we agreed was the worst anchorage either of us have ever been in. What a way to end our final exploration of Southeast Alaska. We couldn't get to Ketchikan fast enough.
Southern Tip - Prince of Wales
Mclean Arm
Cruising to Mclean Arm
Tree in the Water
Mclean Arm
