This has been a bizarre season for us. We naively thought on November 1st we leave Buenaventura (our hurricane hole from June 2024-November 2024) cruise Las Perlas Islands, head to Panama City and make our way through the canal then go to San Blas for January & February and Bocas Del Toro for March and then head north to Belize in April until we need to be back in Colombia for the next hurricane season. Boy were we wrong. But I guess that's what they say in boating the best laid plans are in sand at low tide. We have had a doozie of mechanical issues from coolant leeks in the engine, shaft bolts missing, generator coolant plugging, oil draining it's just been a lot. Even though this is all par for the course in boating somehow it always takes you by surprise and disappoints all the same. And to top that off there is something in Panama called the Christmas winds. We had never heard of this. They are trade winds that blow hard starting in December and continue until February. Well they found us and between the winds and the repairs we were stuck in Shelter Bay Marina from January 6th (the day we crossed the Panama Canal) until February 17th when we were finally able to leave. Talk about an exercise in patients. I thought I was going to loose it on several occasions.
Finally on Monday February 17th at 2pm we threw lines at Shelter Bay Marina and set off on our 158 mile 22hr journey to the Bocas Del Toro archipelago. We had to wait for what we thought was a decent weather window- 4-6 foot seas at 8 seconds and 5-10mph winds. Surprisingly forecasts are only somewhat accurate here. While we did mostly have 4-6 footers the period was more like 5-6 seconds and there were 1-3 foot wind waves on top of the swells making it a washing machine like ride. Moving around the boat was difficult and our able seaman captain found himself not feeling so great for most of the passage. Our arrival couldn't have been happier, we were finally free and cursing again and in calm flat waters. As soon as the hook went down some locals in a dug out came by selling bananas and coconuts. Jeff bought some coconuts and we took a nap immediately.
Leaving Shelter Bay- Freighters Waiting to Enter Canal
Crossing Canal Anchorage
Into the Night We Go
Entering Laguna Bluefield Anchorage
Locals Selling Fruit
Sundown in Laguna Bluefield
Since we had traveled so far there was no way we were leaving this anchorage right away. We had a slow morning of coffee and pjs then we lowered the kayak and paddled around the basin then swam off the boat. Finally we were free and boaters again.
Locals Paddling By
Kayaking Around
Local Village
Tidings of Joy in Bluefield
Sunset in Bluefield
Third day in Bluefield it rained all day and we decided to stay in pjs and read. We love the rain so it was wonderful for us to watch and read and just relax for the day.
Well just when we thought we were in our groove and all our problems were over Jeff discovered that the starboard engines dampening plate was disintegrating. He had noticed this before but after the long passage it got much worse. So much so that we now had to make our way to Red Frog Marina and get a mechanic to replace it. While making our way there the generator stopped working so once again we weren't operational. We felt so defeated after so much work prior to coming to Bocas. What could be done. Now to find a mechanic. Fortunately our friends Doug and Patty on Brigadoon were coming to Red Frog and our other friends Dietmar (founder of the Ocean Posse) and Suzanne were there as well. Nice to have friends to lick our wounds with.
Cruising to Red Frog Marina
Entering Red Frog Marina
With Doug & Patty at Red Frog Marina
Welcome Drinks on Carinthia
When we arrived Dietmar gave us the name of a local mechanic who would be able to help us out. But when Jeff reached out the man was full of excuses like he's old and what's our engine room configuration like because he doesn't bend so good. He asked what kind of tools we have because brining his would be heavy. He also mentioned he was booked a week out and didn't know when he would be able to get to us. All of this made us quite nervous. We both came to the conclusion that we needed to get Wikus out here. He's a Panamanian mechanic who has been working on the boat since Buenaventura. In order to get him here (which he was willing to do) he had to drive 4hrs to Panama City. He then needed to take a flight to Bocas Town then he needed a ride from the airport to the panga landing where he would take a 20 min panga ride to us at Red Frog Marina. None of this was easy but thank god he agreed to do it. He knows the boat and her issues and there was no explanation necessary. We arrived at Red Frog on Friday February 21st and Wikus could come to us on Tuesday the 25th. While we waited we decided to enjoy the facilities. We went to the beach with Brigadoon, ate lunch at Nacho Mamas went to the pool and had drinks and dinner with Dietmar and Suzanne and got some boat projects done. All in all it wasn't a bad place to be stuck and we tried to make the best of it.
View From Beach Club
Red Frog Marina
Lunch at Nacho Mamas
Beach
Red Frog at Red Frog Marina
Sloth at Red Frog Marina
Dinner with Brigadoon & Carinthia
Wikus came on the 25th as promised and changed the flex coupling on both engines and got the generator working. Thank god.
Thank god For Wikus
Wikus did his thing and got everything back up and running in one day and on the next day we continued our survey of Bocas Del Toro. We made a short 10 mile hop to Northwest Isla Popa. It was a nice anchorage surrounded by mangrove islands and we were the only boat here. The day was spent swimming and playing cards and settling back into freedom. We were enjoying it so much that we decided to stay three days. Mornings were slow and afternoons filled with SUPing, swimming and reading. It was wonderful.
Northwest Isla Popa
Finally feeling back in the groove and settled into Bocas we continued exploring leaving Popa behind and heading to Gallego Cays. The short 5 mile jaunt was uneventful and when we entered the anchorage I knew this would be a favorite place. The U shaped anchorage was green tree lined and quiet with birds flying overhead. Little did we know it was a national park and later that day rangers came to collect the park fee. We SUP's and kayaked and swam to stay cool and loved our quiet peaceful abode.
Gallego Cay
Park Rangers
Sunset Gallego
Tidings of Joy in Gallego Cay
Stingray Under Water
Reluctantly it was time to move along. We still had many anchorages to cover on our survey. In hind site I wish we would have stayed in Gallego. Our next anchorage, Pigeon Creek while nicely nestled and enclosed was full of jellyfish which meant no swimming which means nonstop sweating and misery until nighttime when the generator goes on for dinner. We used our personal fans and did the best we could to stay cool but without being able to swim it's tough in the 90 degree and 90% humidity weather.
Unfortunately our next anchorage Bamboo Bight would be much the same- swimming with jelly fish. We were frustrated and wished that the active captain and no foreignland comments would have reflected this. I made sure to add it to my comments. A mother and daughter came out asking for money and Jeff of course gave it to them. In the morning we would again move along.
A Local In His Dugout Passing By
Mother and Daughter Came to the Boat
Sunset Bamboo Bight
The great thing about Bocas Del Toro is that it's enclosed and has the feeling like cruising on a lake. There are no swells, very little wind waves if any and all the anchorages excepts the two islands on the outside are fully protected. It gives a real sense of freedom of mobility moving whenever you want and not having to wait on weather.
Before heading to our next anchorage Trouble Hole we needed to get some fuel. Jeff was instructed on the best place to go called Almorado. It was a port town a little out of the way with good prices. What an experience that was. As we approached we saw about 5 guys all standing on the dock waving us in and ready to help. I tossed lines and many of them jockeyed for the assignment. Once secure they helped bring the hose on board and sat on the boat talking, dancing and singing and had this very happy jovial air about them. As I poked my head out from the engine room I would see several of them singing, "don't worry be happy" while smiling and dancing. Some just sat along the rail of the boat waiting for the fuel to fill. The hose was so short we had to spin the boat to hit the opposite side tanks. All of this took a couple of hours and we were very amused and entertained. Jeff gave them a tip and we were on our way.
Gas Dock Dudes
Making Themselves Right at Home
We could tell right away that Trouble Hole was gonna be good by the dolphin greeting we were afforded on our way in. No sooner than we dropped the hook were we greeted by a man and his children asking for pens and paper for the kids for school. We grabbed what we had from around the boat and said goodbye. Swimming was essential asap and finally no more jellies. We were so happy. Later on a couple of young boys came by and offered to clean the water line. This was much needed and Jeff even lended one of them a snorkel and brush.
Dolphin Greeting
Dad with his Kids
The Boys Hard at Work
Very happy to be at a nice jellyfish free anchorage we decided to stay for several days. We took a long a kayak ride around the basin and swam. Word must have traveled around the village because several boats of school kids came by asking for pens and notebooks for school. We gave them the rest of what we had plus some gatorade and cokes. They seemed happy. The final night in Trouble some of the local pangas decided to race and we watch them go back and forth from the entrance of the basin to the end as fast as they could. It was quite entertaining.
Panga Races
View From Deja-Vu
Deja-Vu
With Doug & Patty
The second day at Laguna Palos was mellow we just swam and hung around the boat. Patty let me know that friends of theirs were coming to the bay the following day and maybe we could all meet for lunch at El Clanestiono, another restaurant in the bay. We picked up Patty while Doug got their friends and we made our way in. The lady and guy working seemed surprised to see people when we arrived and told us the owner hadn't been in to mix drinks so we could only order beers. So we did. The food was fair but the company was great. And back to the boat we went.
Going to Lunch with Patty
Lunch at El Clanestiono
As my birthday approached we made our move to Dolphin Bay and No Name Cove. Another nice big bay with several things to do and lots of quiet spots to tuck into. Doug and Patty stayed behind to spend another day with their friends before coming to meet us. Again we spent the day swimming and reading and enjoying our new spot. March 12th is my birthday and was the next day. I was amazed at all the things we found to do. We grabbed Doug and Patty at some point in the morning and headed off to a hike called Wonderland on Mia's property. Four dogs met us as we approached her dock and she came shortly after to welcome us. She provided walking sticks and boots to not get our shoes muddy and gave us a wonderful informative tour all along her trails on her property. It was good exercise and a great way to kick off the birthday.
Arrived at Wonderland Hike
Starting the Hike
We had heard and read that there was a couple named Ryan and Andrea who own their own island and all cruisers are welcome to stop by at any time and check it out. Not knowing what to expect we made our way towards the island. As we approached the dingy dock Ryan, with a beer in hand came out to meet and welcome us. After getting the dingy secure he introduced himself and said to follow him. We took a path into the center of the island where all of a sudden there was a full on restaurant and bar set up. Where were we? The four of us bellied up to his bar where he offered us whatever we wanted to drink. For being in the middle of an island this bar was fully stocked. Shortly after sitting down his wife Andrea popped out from behind the bar and in her kitchen where she was making cookies and homemade jam. Their kids made their way out as well to check us out. After some nice discussion and some libations we were offered a tour of their garden and farm by their daughter who walked us around showing us their pigs, bunnies, chickens and goats. She even showed us where they pull out the eggs from. We then were shown the vegetable and herb garden which was enormous and very beautiful. After some more drinks we decided it was time to head back to the boats to rest and change before birthday dinner. Not leaving empty handed we bought some eggs, hot sauce and chili oil. Such a great experience.
Ryan & Andrea's Bar
Farm Tour
By the time we dropped off Doug and Patty there wasn't much time for a nap. Instead we just sat outside a little bit then took a shower and back to get Doug and Patty we went. I had arranged my birthday dinner at a place called Dolphin Blue Resort. They have a three course tasting menu and were more than happy to accommodate my vegan diet and Patty's fish allergy. Overlooking the bay we were given a table right at the edge of the patio with a stunning view. We had cocktails and wine and the tasting menu was ceviche both vegan and with fish and fish and tofu with sides for the main course and chocolate mouse cake (all vegan) for dessert. Everything was excellent and I was happy Doug & Patty were there to celebrate with us.
Dolphin Blue Restaurant
The day after my birthday we were quite hungover and not wanting to move. We laid around, watched a movie and swam. It was great. The following day on the 14th we had planned to leave but heard some locals mention that they all go to the Drunken Monkey on Fridays because it's the one day of the week it's open. They have cheap drinks and bbq for lunch and are only open from 12-5. Of course Doug and Patty were up for it so off we went.
Brigadoon Anchored Behind Us in Dolphin Bay
Heading to the Drunken Monkey
With Brigadoon at the Drunken Monkey
Drunken Monkey From Land
Having felt like we had exhausted all the activities at Dolphin Bay we said goodbye to Doug and Patty and made our way to Ground Creek, an anchorage they had already been at. Our longest run at two hours it was kinda nice to kick back and enjoy the lake like setting and enjoy a nice calm boat ride. Ground Creek was mostly quiet save for a few local pangas who would fly by at full speed waking us and not waving back. We enjoyed the quiet while having a view of the open Bocas bay. Thanks to Doug and Patty we were told to anchor here in order to access the famous starfish beach to avoid the crowds and the noise of the popular beach while still being able to access it by dingy. It was a great tip. We launched the dink and took the cut through the mangroves like we saw the pangas do and dropped the dingy hook right at the beach. We sat in our chairs and swam around looking at all the starfish in the water. It was amazing. Jeff took a stroll to scope out the place and saw a sloth in the tree and found us a good lunch spot. We pulled anchor and zipped further down the beach to the restaurant he found. Anchored again we walked from the dink to our table at the restaurant. Starfish had such a laid back beach feel and people were swimming, walking and just enjoying themselves. Jeff had a lobster for lunch and I had coconut rice and patacones. Washed down with a couple beers of course. When we got hot we swam to cool down and after sometime on the beach we made our way back to Ground Creek.
Magnificent Frigate in Ground Creek
Sloth at Starfish Beach
Anchored at Starfish Beach
Beach Lunch
Exploring in Ground Creek
Once again it was time to move along. We decided at the last minute on an anchorage called Big Bight. It seemed nestled with lots of room and just what we loved. When we entered the anchorage we saw one sailboat that looked abandoned and another one but neither were on our mark so it was all good. After dropping the hook shortly there after one of the sailboats left and we were on our own. We managed to find a little indent at the back of the anchorage that was just big enough for us while leaving the rest of the bay wide open for anyone else. We heard lots of birds singing in the trees and spent days kayaking and swimming per the usual. We also started playing backgammon in the afternoons too.
Big Bight
Jeff's daughter Samantha was coming to visit us in a couple of days so we made our way to Bocas Town Marina where we would be meeting her in town from her flight. Sad to leave our nice anchorage on March 21st we hopped over to Bocas Town Marina. The marina itself was quite dumpy and falling apart and we were told the water had been off for days. Lovely. After checking in and getting settled we had lunch and chilled until dinner when we would walk up to the marina restaurant to listen to live music and have dinner. At the restaurant we ran into our friends on Knot Right and had dinner and drinks with them which was fun. The food was ok the company better.
Bocas Town Marina
Dinner with Knot Right
The following day we needed to get some provisions for Sam's visit so we took the marina panga into town and had lunch at a place called Buena Vista which actually had vegan options for me and was quite good. We leisurely strolled through town checking it out then eventually went to a couple of markets for some fresh food and gluten free bread for Sam.
Lunch at Buena Vista
Panga Ride Back to Marina
March 23rd Sam arrived in Bocas Town. Jeff and I took the panga from the marina to Bocas Town then walked to the airport to meet her. Town is so small that it's only a few blocks from the water to get to the airport. We were all excited to see each other and we dragged the bags through town back to the panga to the marina but first stopped at a fruit store to get some more fruit.
Sam in Bocas Town
Fruit Store
We had the panga wait at the boat while we threw in Sam's bags so we could head back to town. I found a vegan friendly place across from town that also had fish options for Jeff. The panga dropped us off at their dock and we sat with a gorgeous view of town.
Leaf Eater Restaurant
Lunch at Leaf Eaters
After everyone enjoyed their lunch we took a little stroll along the island before getting another panga back across the water to Bocas Town. We spent the afternoon seeing town and shopping. Sam and I got some clothes. We stopped in La Buga to have a drink and snack before making our way back to the boat to settle in for the evening.
Snacks at La Buga
Bocas Town Square
Jeff thought that Sam would enjoy Red Frog Marina more so the next morning we left Bocas Town and headed back to Red Frog. We cruised in the pouring rain and once tied up took our time making our way to the office to check in. At some point the rain let up and we set out to show Sam the grounds and get checked back in. We made it to the restaurant for happy hour and had a drink and a snack before heading back to the boat for dinner.
Walking Grounds with Sam
Red Frog
The next day we spent a lot of it hanging around the boat. Sam had a massage in the spa and then we went to happy hour with Dietmar and Suzanne on Carinthia who were still there and wanted to meet Sam. Sometime in the course of the evening a band started playing at happy hour and it came out that Sam is a singer so Dietmar arranged for Sam to sing with the band. It was fun and spontaneous. After drinks we had Dietmar and Suzanne on the boat for more drinks and more of Sam performing. It was a fun night.
Happy Hour with Carinthia & Sam
Sam Singing With the Band
The next day was a beach day. The three of us walked over from the marina and plopped down on chairs in the sand. Lunch was at one of the beach restaurants called Nachos Mamas where we all ate tacos. It's laid back on the sand and not too far from the lounge chairs.
Lunch at Nacho Mammas
Back and forth to the beach and pool we went. We all enjoyed the walk and the beautiful paths around the marina. Finally on Friday February 28th we took the evening panga from the marina back into Bocas Town. I got a weird pedicure while Jeff and Sam walked around. Every Friday in Bocas Town they have an organized event called Filthy Fridays which is a bar crawl between designated bars which starts at 1pm and goes till 10. Sam decided she wanted to check it out and after a drink and a snack at a restaurant we took a panga to the final designated bar called Aqua. Before we even arrived from the water we could hear the base of the music and saw a line of sweaty young people trying to get in. Jeff and I were clearly too old for this shit. But we went along with it for Sam's sake. After paying admission and squeezing between lots of people to get to the bar we attempted to order veggie burgers which they were out of. We got drinks and ordered fries and tried to find any place to stand. Sam wanted to dance so she hit the dance floor while Jeff and I ate our fries in a designated food area. We couldn't wait to leave. After about an hour we were released and took a panga back to the boat. Thank god.
Marina Walk
Marina Walk
Panga Ride to Town
Bocas Town
Aqua
After a nice week it was time to say goodbye to Sam. On March 30th we all got into a panga and went to the airport in Bocas Town. We said our goodbyes then headed back to the marina to start planing our departure from Boca del Toro.
Panga to the Airport
Adios Sam
The following day we both readied the boat for our departure from Bocas back to Shelter Bay where we would spend a week provisioning and waiting for a weather window to the San Blas Islands. Our time at Bocas Del Toro was so wonderful and something we could have never imagined. Full of friends and family and relaxation it was a familiar yet completely unique place. We will miss it.
Final Sunset Red Frog Marina
Leaving Bocas Del Toro
Back into the Night We Go To Shelter Bay Marina
