The day we had been waiting for all summer long was finally here - November 1st, the start of cruising season. We provisioned, planned, coordinated and at 1425 we made the high tide exit from our summer home- Buenaventura Marina with our friends on Summer Breeze leading the way. Excited, giddy and feeling like a caged up animal finally set free we made our way into the Pacific for a short 20 mile run to Vista Mar marina where we could stage with friends Brigadoon 3 and Summer Breeze for the Las Pearlas Islands. I wasn't that enthusiastic about going to another marina but knew it would cut down our time to the islands and since this marina was wide open we didn't have to worry about leaving at high tide, we were free whenever we wanted. The day itself a little dreary and rainy but we didn't care we were free. Pelicans and Boobies followed us along the way and by 1520 we were docked next to Brigadoon and ready to celebrate. Our three boats (Brigadoon, Summer Breeze and us) went to the marina restaurant for dinner and music and then an after party on our boat which went into the wee hours. It was great and we were all so happy to be cursing again.
Leaving Buenaventura Marina
Marina Vista Mar
Dinner with Summer Breeze & Brigadoon
The next several days were spent waiting for a weather window to make our way to the Las Pearlas archipelago. It was windy and rainy. and it tried our patience but finally on November 6th the wind calmed and the seas laid down and it was time to go. The three boat threw lines around 0715 and made the 57.7 mile run to our first anchorage in Las Pearlas- Pedro Gonzales. Brigadoon started in the lead but we soon overtook them and we were like three little ducks in a row. The seas were calm 1-2 feet with light 9-10mph winds and the sun was shinning. A long run was just what we had been waiting for so long. It felt great to be cursing again. Today's only challenge (if you could call it that) was crossing the shipping channel that leads to and from the Panama Canal. We were the first boat and it was my shift and I watched the ships approaching on radar I kept a close eye on their CPA (closest point of approach) while talking to our friends behind us. With some speed alterations we passed the bow of three oncoming freighters and felt like the distance (2 miles) was safe and I was happy to be out of that channel and back to laid back cruising. The two other boats did well also. Around 1450 the hook was down and we finally felt like boaters again. A great day indeed.
Underway With Brigadoon Out Front
With Summer Breeze & Brigadoon
Crossing the Shipping Lane
Anchored at Pedro Gonzalez
We slept great on the hook and woke up enjoying our surroundings and taking our time and going slow. At some point we launched the dink and cruised to the other side of the island alongside Summer Breeze and Brigadoon and had a beach day. We had the entire beach to ourselves and spent the day swimming, talking, picnicking, exploring and just had a great time. To us this was really what boating was all about - friends, exploring and quiet isolated beaches only accessed by boat.
Sunrise at Pedro Gonzalez
Dingy Exploring
Private Beach Day
Beach View
After two wonderful days at Pedro we decided it was time to move along to another island - Gibraleon a short 11 mile hop. At approximately 0955 the three boats up-anchored and on we went. One rain squall caught us and after 10 minutes it was done. The winds and chop were light. At 1143 the hook was down and the other two boats made their way in behind us. The anchorage was quiet and peaceful and we spent the entire day reading and swimming. At some point a panga came by and sold Jeff a lobster for 10 dollars. He was excited.
Summer Breeze and Brigadoon Anchored Behind Us
Lobster Boat
The Lobster
Collectively we decided to stay a second day and night at Gibraleon because it was so quiet and a nice place to be. The seas in the bay we were rough and we were afforded great protection in this anchorage. We woke up and had our usual slow morning with coffee and news and beautiful scenery. For some reason we decided to make a cooked lunch which we ordinarily don't do. I went to the pilothouse to fire up the generator and after a couple minutes of running everything turned off. After several more failed attempts at starting it we soon realized we had a big problem. No generator at anchor for us was not an option. We use it to cook, to keep the refrigerators cold, to cool the boat and to charge the batteries. Too long without running it and we'll be dead in the water. Knowing the seas were no good we contemplated our options. Leaving now would get us into a marina in Panama City close to 9pm which meant arriving in the dark which we never do. With the clock ticking we decided we had no options we had to ready the boat and get going. I texted the two other boats letting them know the situation and asked them to keep an eye on us underway cause it wasn't going to be an easy crossing. By 1405 we up-anchored and made our way towards Panama City and Flamenco Marina. The first hour we cruised in the lee of the islands and didn't feel much wind or weather but the second we rounded the point and hit the bay things got very nautical. We were taking 5-6 foot seas on the beam and the wind was howling 28-30mph. Conditions we would never travel in. At one point the entire salon shifted from side to side- chairs flying across the room, fruit launching down the steps and the entire drinks fridge dumping on the floor. We both held on and didn't speak much. Jeff insists on driving the entire 7hrs only taking breaks to use the head. During one of those breaks while I was on watch we took a rogue wave of 7 feet or more challenging our stabilizers to the point that I thought, "oh my god we could roll over!" She righted herself like a champ but I was rattled. We both sat at attention as lightness turned into dark and the city came into view. Countless freighters were anchored in front of the channel to the marina awaiting their turn for the canal and despite Jeff routing us around the outside we still had to dodge several freighters getting ready to anchor. As we hugged the coast with freighters to our port we then were challenged with crossing an entry channel were we then dodged tugs and ferries none giving way and I think would have run us over had we not slowed to let them pass. With our marina's entrance channel somewhat in site Jeff instructed me to go to the bow to communicate to him where to go. He could see nothing at the helm. I communicated with him via headset and after calling the marina they sent a little dingy with two men in it with a white light. We followed the light down fairways dodging other boats until we were alongside our tie where 4 other dockhands were waiting. I've never been so happy in my life to be at a marina or to take the help they offered. I was so filled with emotion and relief I thought I could cry. Boat secured, interior thrashed, Jeff and I hugged and took a huge deep breath. I filled out my log as Jeff arranged the moved furniture and we quickly hit the sauce - the special bottle of tequila that we bought in the town of Tequila. Man what a crazy day!
Leaving Gibraleon
Dodging Freighters Heading Into Marina
The next couple of days we worked on getting mechanics to come and figure out what was going on with the generator. We met another posse boat and on the 11th Brigadoon came in to the neighboring marina and we met them for dinner.
Dinner with Brigadoon
The other posse boat here told us about a good tour they took of Chagres National Park and the Embera Tribe. They gave us the name and number of their guide and recommended we go. With mechanics not available until the 13th we decided what the hell might as well make the most of this unforeseen early stop.
At 8am Goran, our guide picked us up at the marina and we made the short 1 hour drive out of the city to the national park. Embera native men were waiting there to meet us and take us by boat to their village. The wood boat was home made and made me a little nervous at first that with one wrong lean we would be in the water. One man drove from the rear while the other one stood in front looking out for logs and debris. Our first stop was an island with a trail that lead to a beautiful waterfall where we all plunged into the water and took pics by the falls. The water was cold but we didn't mind. It felt refreshing after the hot hike. After some time we loaded back into the wood boat and went to a different island where we were met by native women all shaking out hands and saying welcome and several native men played instruments as we passed by. We assembled into a hut where we were given a lecture by an Embera woman explaining their culture and food and way of life. We then were given a home made lunch of fresh fish and plantains prepared in the communal kitchen. After lunch we walked the grounds and saw the huts they lived in and then were treated to a traditional dance and music show before we left. The women were given flowers and the men were taught the dances. It was very amusing and a great way to learn about their culture. After, Goran drove us back to the marina and we thanked him and said goodbye.
Embera Men
Our Boat
Boat Ride with Goran
Hiking to Waterfall
Waterfall
Nave Men Playing Us In
Making Us Lunch
Embera Home
Native Dancing
Brigadoon in the Panama Canal
The mechanics told us some bolts and gaskets were needed in order to fix the generator. Jeff quickly ordered them in San Diego to pick up when we returned for Thanksgiving. We met with our Panama Canal agents son who explained the process to us and confirmed our December 10th crossing date and we were excited. We flew back to San Diego from November 18th through December 1st seeing family, going to doctor appointments and getting our generator parts.
December 2nd we had the mechanics back in order to get the generator put back together. When they put in the parts we brought back they found out that in fact that wasn't the problem and began further tearing apart the generator. They left with the motor and worked on it at their shop. We kept reminding them to remember we have at December 10th canal date and the generator must be working in order to go. They understood. Later that night we received some terrible news that all of our valves were shot and we would need new ones. This meant ordering them from the states, shipping them to our mechanics PO Box in Florida and then shipping them to Panama. This was now December 3rd and the idea of this all getting done by the 10th wasn't going to happen. The sick feeling set in and we informed out agent about our issues and he said it's best to wait till our generator is fully operational and to reschedule or canal date. We were so sad. We've had December 10th on our minds and in site for months and now that we were finally so close we would have to wait and watch it pass us by.
So here we are on December 13th still with no parts but a new canal date of January 6th. Mechanics tell us parts should arrive in Panama today and will spend a couple days in customs and as soon as they are released they will pick them up and install them. Until then we bide our time at Flamenco Marina in downtown Panama City and hope for the best.
Generator All Tore Up
