To The Sea, The Sea of Love

 Back to boating. It's such a mental shift going from being on land dealing with day to day business and coming back to the boat where our cares revolve around the speed of the wind and the height of the waves. Planning and navigating are the top priorities. These are the kinda of things we like to think about. Finally at 0721 we left our slip in La Cruz and made the 41 mile journey to Isla La Pena where we were met  several pangas and lots of people snorkeling around the island. Jeff was still not feeling good from San Diego and after dropping the hook at 1:45pm we spent the afternoon reading and relaxing and never left the boat. The island didn't afford as much protection as we would have liked and we knew it would only be a one nighter. 

Heading into Isla La Pena Anchorage

After a rolly night we were ready to be on our way en route to the Sea of Cortez. Today would begin our diagonal crossing back to Isla Isabel where we had stopped on the way to the mainland. We both loved the bird sanctuary island so much we were looking forward to returning even if it was just for one night. We had a weather window for our crossing so we had to keep going. At 0820 we up-anchored and started our northwest route to Isla Isabel. Most of the 68 mile cruise was sporty with 2-3 foot wind waves on top of 3 foot swells. Despite the stabilizers we just couldn't get a break and just kept at it. We did manage to see over 20 whales in route so that made it all worth it. As we approached the island the birds came out to greet us and despite discussing anchoring on the east side to mix it up from last time we ended up in the exact same spot we anchored in before. If it ain't broke why fix it right? Already here was a Kady Krogen and a Catamaran and we nestled in beside them and watched the birds flying overhead. I was a little sad we could only stay one night but knew when you have a weather window you have to take it. We enjoyed a nice sunset, made dinner and went to bed early to ready ourselves for our early morning departure and overnight crossing. 

Approaching Isla Isabel 

With the Krogen at Isla Isabel 

At 0645 we were up-anchoring and starting out on our 250 mile crossing to what we thought was going to be Los Frailes but turned into Los Muertos. In boating when there is bad weather approaching sometimes you have to go when conditions aren't as perfect as you would like but knowing that even worse conditions are coming and could potentially hold you from traveling for a week you suck it up and just get through what you have to. Today was that day. Again the wind waves were about 3 feet and the swells 3 feet short and close together making us pitch like crazy and making movement around the boat challenging. This would last 17 hours of our cruise until finally instead of going all the way to Los Muertos we diverted to Los Frailes which saved us about 5 additional hours of pitching and being tossed around. Despite this diversion we still cruised for 30 hours arriving at Los Frailes at 12:39pm the next day. Other then the pitching the cruise itself was uneventful. We saw maybe one or two boats the entire time and as we entered the Sea of Cortez we were greeted by whales and two sea turtles swimming by. 

Once anchored at the same spot we previously stayed before heading to the mainland we had lunch and I quickly hit the couch for a much needed nap. It was so nice to not to be rocking and rolling and the anchorage was still and calm and it was just us and one other sailboat. The rest of the day was spent relaxing and recovering. 

Early Morning Departure 

East Anchorage Isla Isabel 

Sunset Underway 

Moonrise 

Just Us and the Stars 

Los Frailes Anchorage 

Relaxed and recuperated from our overnight crossing we were ready to head to our originally planned anchorage Los Muertos. We woke to rain which makes both of us so happy. After living in the pacific northwest for two years we became accustomed to it every so often which never happens down south so this felt like a wonderful treat. The rain and a boat named Heritage would be with us the entire day. The cruise like the day before was sloppy with 1-2 foot wind waves on top of 3 foot swells but we were so happily watching the rain that we didn't mind. 53 miles later we were dropping the hook at 4pm with 11 other boats with lots of room for all. Once settled we took much needed showers. I made eggplant parmesan for dinner and we watched t.v. 

Rainy Cruising Day 

Los Muertos Anchorage 

The next day was a big one for us we would be cruising to La Paz where we had secured a slip for the entire month of February in order to slow down, explore, travel and just have a home base in the sea for awhile. We both were really excited to finally get to La Paz a place we have heard about and read about for years while planning our trip. The sun was shinning and the 61 mile cruise felt easy as the wind and waves both settled down and for the first time we spotted a sea plan on AIS going 124 mph. Weird. 

At the marina a nice dockhand met us at the slip and helped get us secured. After check in at the office we headed straight to the marina bar for a welcome margarita and to toast our success in getting all the way back to Baja after venturing so far south on the mainland. Now we could kick back, relax and not worry about cruising obstacles for awhile. 

Rainbow Underway 

La Paz in the Distance 

Outskirts of La Paz

Entering La Paz Harbor 

Massive Sailboat La Paz Marina 

Marina Palmira (our marina) 

Safely Docked at Marina Palmira 

Welcome Drinks at Marina Bar

Marina Bar

Our Marina 

Mas Mainland Mexico

 At 0945 we said adios to San Blas and made the short 24 mile journey to the anchorage at Chacala. The sun was shining the cruise was easy and when we arrived we were happy to see two boats we knew from Isla Isabel and San Blas- Tiamat and Aimless. We found a good spot close but not too close to the other boats and settled into the anchorage. Lunch reading and afternoon swimming took priority today and we enjoyed seeing the beach and the many palapas from the boat. That evening the sunset was spectacular and we were happy with our front row seat. 

Heading to Chacala 

Entering Chacala 

Chacala Anchorage 

Palapas on the Beach 

Locals 

Sunset 

Sunset Stern View 

The over night in Chacala was a bit rough. Despite having our flopper stoppers out the boat rocked and rolled most of the night and Jeff was more then ready to head into town. Since it was windy and rolly we decided to lower the dink but not the motor. We didn't want any mishaps or it crashing into the side of the boat during a roll. Once launched Jeff rowed us to shore where we checked in with the port captain who proceeded to sneeze and cough the entire time we were in the small enclosed office. I had to step outside several times to get some fresh air. Once checked in we took a leisurely stroll into town along a nicely paved path. We saw the few shops and markets in the town and Jeff chose a palapa for his lobster lunch. Having nothing but chips and guacamole for me I opted for a beer instead. After Jeff's lunch we went to a second restaurant for me where they had a nice falafel burger and a cinnamon roll for Jeff. We bought a loaf of their fresh homemade sourdough bread then headed back to the boat. We spent the rest of the afternoon swimming and rolling around. 

Tidings of Joy & Big Surf 

Mariachi Band at Lunch 

Downtown Chacala 

Chacala Anchorage 

The Beach 

Jeff at Lunch 

View From Lunch 

You Can See Why Anchorage Was Rolly 

Downtown Chacala

Chacala 

Fed up with the rolling we up-anchored at 10:15a.m the following day this time heading to our first stop in Bandaras Bay - Punta Mita. The 41 mile cruise brought 3-5 foot swells and lots of whale sitings.  We rolled along until 3:20pm when we dropped the hook in Punta Mita. The anchorage was large and full of boats with lots of room.  We quickly get set up and then turned on the Seahawks 49ers playoff game. Don't ask who won. 

Punta Mita Anchorage

Whale Underway 

Sunset in Punta Mita Anchorage 

The next day we were getting 4-6 foot rollers in the anchorage and didn't feel comfortable lowing the dink. Instead Jeff waved over a panga and asked if he would take us into town. He agreed they negotiated a price for a round trip run and we were off. The town was very modern with upscale shops and restaurants and we could feel the influence of the four seasons hotel and all the gringo cliental that it brought with it. Eventually we ended up at Pescadora a cute restaurant that our friends Randal and Michelle recommended from their previous visit here. We sat right in the sand with an incredible view. Jeff had fresh fish and they were kind enough to put a vegan plate together for me. Throughly full we made our way back to the panga bay where our driver waited for us. The waves crashed hard into the bay and getting on the boat was a bit scary. The driver timed our exit perfectly in avoid the 5 foot swells rolling into the bay. I rode tightly gripped to the panga the entire time. I couldn't wait to get back onto our boat. We enjoyed another afternoon swimming off the boat while watching football playoffs on the Ipad. 

The Beach 

The Beach 

Punta Mita Anchorage 

Our Panga Driver 

Our Panga 

Panga Bay

Lunch 

Lunch With a View 

Punta Mita 

Tidings of Joy at Anchor 

Pulling the Panga in to Leave 

Pelicans 

Back Home 

The third day at Punta Mita we didn't get off the boat. Instead we stayed in p.j's all day and read and played rummy cube. At night we watched Monday Night Football and had dinner. 

Evening 

Sunset

La Cruz is only 10 miles from Punta Mita and our reservation at the marina started today on January 17th and after two straight weeks on the hook we were looking forward to some power and not getting tossed around for awhile. Underway we saw a whale breeching which was amazing. After we checked in at the office we walked around town which was right at the entrance of the marina and were shocked to see all the gringos there. Everyone in town was white. Where were we? This is the first time since we've been in Mexico to see nothing but Americans everywhere. And funny enough every time we would smile or say hello to them they ignored us and looked the other way. It was bizarre. After strolling through town for awhile we ended up at a place called the treehouse where a white woman speaking english waited on us. The place was empty except for one other table, an older white couple. One drink was enough and we made our way back to the marina to regroup. We had heard that La Cruz had a good live music scene. After a little rest back at the boat we headed back into town. First we went to the La Cruz Inn where we sat upstairs in an open bar/restaurant once again filled with only Americans. The shelves of the bar were empty and the vibe was weird. We listened to two Mexican guitarist playing what sounded like traditional music. At one point a hostess who also looked like she could have been an owner (American of course) asked us if we would mind two other people joining our table or if we wanted to move to the bar since we weren't eating. We of course moved. Once again one drink was enough. From there we walked to the Green Tomato and arrived before the band started and were the only table there. We had drinks and dinner and by then the band started playing. It was rock and roll with two Americans and two Mexicans. They were fun and sounded pretty good. As the people started filling in once again it was all Americans. Full bellies and tired we went back to the boat and went to bed. 

Sailboat Heading to La Cruz

La Cruz Marina 

Downtown La Cruz

The Treehouse 

Street Downtown 

La Cruz Marina 

La Cruz Inn 

Cathedral 

La Cruz Inn 

Big Iguana in the Tree 

Guitar Players at La Cruz Inn 

Green Tomato 

Band at Green Tomato 

Sea of Americans - Green Tomato 

The next morning we were due at the port captain's office which was on the other side of the marina. We took our folder of paperwork and quickly we were checked into La Cruz. The rest of the day we spent doing boat chores and catching up on things we couldn't do while anchored or underway. That evening we got a real treat. We ubered back to Punta Mita and went to Casa Teresa which came highly recommended. As we walked in the door it was packed and we were greeted and asked to sit and relax and someone would be with us shortly. After the group was seated a a girl with a drink cart wheeled over and told us about the special drinks of the evening. Jeff had one and I the other. Mine was watermelon something and Jeff's was gin. The making of the drinks was a fun show to watch. The girl threw the liquor bottles in the air and threw the liquids from one glass to another and we were quite entertained. The restaurant itself was stunning. We sat outdoors and there was an old world patio feel to it. Jeff ordered some fancy gold leaf lobster pasta entree and before it arrived they gave him a gold placemat, a fancy gold napkin ring and as the waiter brought the entrees Jeff's was accompanied by a song, dance and sparklers. It was quite the show. The food was delicious and the night very special. 

Lounge Waiting for Drinks 

Drink Girl Making Drinks 

Beautiful Lounge 

Coctails in the Lounge 

Our Dinner Table 

Restaurant From our Table 

Jeff's Fancy Gold Leaf Setting 

Dancing and Sparklers for Jeff

Gold Leaf Pasta on Gold Leaf Plate

We felt fortunate to have had such a nice diner at a great recommendation because for the next week the boat would sit alone in La Cruz while we had to fly back to San Diego to take care of a family member. Days would be spent at doctors appointments or at lunches. We saw the kids one night and cousins another. Jeff got sick while there and we both were exhausted and ready to get back home. Our plane landed at 11pm on January 25th in Mexico and we spent the entire next day getting provisions and doing boat chores in order to leave La Cruz the next morning. 

Breakfast with the Kids

Hanging out with Cousins 

Back in La Cruz