Today we would leave Pender Harbour but not without a little drama while up-anchoring. While Jeff brought in the chain and I sprayed it down we noticed that it was resisting pretty hard at one point and we realized that we were either caught on something or had picked something up. It was the later. We caught an old basket that was stuck on the chain and on the anchor itself. I got the boat hook and began poking it over and over until it was loose. Afterwards I realized I probably should have brought it on deck rather then leave it in the water for someone else to snag. Ooops. Once the anchor was safe and deck cleaned up we made our way 30 miles to Egmont and to Back-eddy Marina. The marina is rightly named because the rapids upstream cause pretty significant back-eddies at the marina and tying up can be a challenge. Fortunately it wasn't running to swift when we arrived and I secured us to the dock without any trouble. Egmont consists of the marina, cabins and a pub which is open only one the weekends. After a little while at the dock a sailboat came in behind us which we never saw but heard a loud thud and we both jumped up. I looked over the bow and saw their dingy lodged under our anchor which meant they banged into us. Jeff went outside to assess and discuss. The sailboaters acted dumbfounded that they could have hit us and fortunately no damage was done. Too much drama for one day. It was decided, to the pub we would go. It was pretty cute for a small little place. 20 somethings were playing pool while older people sat at tables having dinner. One nice bartender/waitress ran the entire place. The food was good and the beers were cold. A nice wrap up to a bizarre day.
Caught a Basket
Crusising to Egmont
Random Floating Object En Route
Heading up Agamamnon Channel
Agamamnon Channel
Egmont
Transient Dock- Back-eddy Marina
The Pub- Back-eddy Marina
Docked at Back-eddy Marina
View from Back-eddy
Back-eddy Marina
Dinner at the Pub
Docked at Back-eddy Marina
The next day like most when in port brought chores. I did laundry and blogged and Jeff filled the water and cleaned the windows. After lunch we took a stroll to the other marina which claimed to have a good general store. Since cruising in remote parts of Canada going to stores/markets has become out total entertainment, never knowing what we'll find. The walk was about 20 minutes and felt nice to stretch the legs. The store was a small hodgepodge of everything. It had only two or three isles and sold everything from butter tarts to toilet bowl cleaner. I think I got some chocolate and Jeff some butter tarts and we were on our way. Shortly after returning to the boat it poured rain and we settled in playing rummy cube and had an early dinner in anticipation of leaving in the morning.
View From Back-eddy Marina
Boat in the lawn on walk to other marina
Other Egmont Marina
Sunset
We both woke up excited and ready to go. Today we would make our way to Princess Louisa and the famous Chatterbox Falls. The 30 miles trip took us almost 6 hours due to having to time Malibu Rapids for slack tide. We arrived 30 minutes prior to slack and had no problem. The day was rainy and overcast and when we arrived there were two sailboats and a tug already at the dock. We positioned ourselves halfway down the dock with a spectacular view of the falls.
Cruise to Princess Louisa
Approaching Malibu Rapids
Christian Camp at Malibu Rapids
Malibu Rapids
Heading into Princes Louisa
Waterfall en Route to Princess Louisa
Approaching Chatterbox Falls
Chatterbox Falls
Dock at Princess Louisa
Stern View
Our View
Chatterbox Falls
Chatterbox Falls
We were both so amazed at the spectacular view we had of the falls and quiet beauty that surrounded us. We made a drink and had happy hour gazing at the waterfall in awe. This was going to be an amazing place.
The next morning we woke up ready to really experience the falls. We set out to take the nice path around the falls and the grounds of Princess Louisa. Another wonderful thing about this place and that along the path there are various benches and tables to sit at and view the falls. The entire activity of Princess Louisa is to really experience the falls. Several times a days boaters leave their boats to walk along the path and sit at the various benches gazing quietly at the falls and taking in it's beauty and really wrapping your self up in the natural beauty that is this place. It's really incredible and almost meditational without instructions being given. We met a few of the boat neighbors and later in the day watched a float plane land and met the two female pilots navigating it. They said they just wanted to get some fresh air.
Chatterbox Falls
Walk out to the falls
Stern View
Path around Chatterbox Falls
Docked at Princess Louisa Falls
Walking Around the Falls
Walk Around Falls
End of the Dock
Float Plane at Chatterbox
Jeff at Chatterbox Falls
The next morning we dropped the dink in the water and cruised up the inlet. We ducked into the first cove and tied up at McDonald Island and took the loop hike around. Jeff immediately spotted bear poop and we were on edge. He brought the bear spray but that isn't anything you ever want to use. The trail was easy and provided lots of look out spots. We spotted four different mounds of bear poop and felt like we were following him but fortunately never crossed paths. After the hike we proceeded up the channel to check out the rapids and the christian camp. The water was calm and the dingy ride fast and it was fun to explore. When we returned to the boat we noticed the sailboats left and we had all of Chatterbox Falls to ourselves. It was spectacular. We walked out to the float plane dock and sat and soaked in our private residence. Unfortunately at 6pm a go fast boat with three dudes on it came to the dock but very considerately docked behind us. We talked to them for a little bit then settled in for the night.
Dingy Ride to McDonald Island
Starfish at the Dock
Dingy Dock McDonald Island
Loop Hike
Bear Poop
Loop Hike
Bench on Loop Hike
Loop Hike
Someone Thinks They're Funny
Loop Hike
Dingy Ride
Dingy Ride
In Front of Christian Camp
Malibu Rapids
Rapids
Dingy Ride Back to Boat
Chatterbox Falls
Empty Dock at Chatterbox Falls
All Alone
Falls Walk
Sadly the next morning we needed to leave Chatterbox. The experiences was mind blowing and we couldn't have anticipated how great it would have been. But we had more to see and do, specifically dinner to eat. We would return to Egmont and Back-eddy marina for the sole purpose for going to the season opening of the West Coast Wilderness Lodge and to have dinner at their restaurant. When we were in Egmont several days before we walked past the Wilderness Lodge and despite being closed we walked around the grounds and were offered a tour. The restaurant was gorgeous and with a stunning view of the islets and the bay. We knew we had to eat here so back we came. The 30 mile cruise felt long and the overcast day added to our tired feeling. We had a 4mph current at the dock when we arrived but for some reason it wasn't a problem. We relaxed a bit before our dinner reservation then set out for the lodge.
The dinner and the experience did not disappoint. Our waiter was charming and full of energy for the opening day. We sipped cocktails and looked out at the view and also took in the charm of the of the restaurant full of wood that had a cottagey lodge feel all mixed up. Jeff had fish and I had a vegan meal both delicious and filling and we were glad we had returned.
Last Walk Princess Louisa
Leaving Chatterbox Falls
Towards Egmont
West Coast Wilderness Lodge
Our View From West Coast Wilderness Lodge
The Restaurant at the Wildernes Lodge
Dinner
Jeff's Fish
The Restaurant
The Lodge at Night
Jeff had read about a waterfall that would be on the way to our next destination so on our way to Blind Bay we swung through and checked out Freil falls. After Princess Louisa even though it was nice it just didn't have the same wow factor. We were spoiled. The falls were very pretty and we were happy that we took the time to swing by. As we navigated our way through Blind Bay between a serious of islands we finally found out spot in Ballet Bay and drop the hook and had the place to ourselves. At least that's what we thought at first. Sometime during out lunch making I was looking outside and spotted something black moving on shore. I quickly grabbed the binoculars to find out it was our first bear siting. I shouted, "bear!" and Jeff came running. We both took turns with the binoculars and gawked for hours at our first bear. He was huge. You would have no idea he just came out of hibernation cause he was fat. He must have done a good job loading up before the winter. We were so excited. I think me more then Jeff and I couldn't take my eyes off of it not wanting to miss a moment of his shell fish eating. At some point the tide started to rise forcing our friend to retreat and he was gone. We had some happy hour outside and enjoyed the sunshine and peace and quiet of being all alone.
Our First Bear of the Season!!
Red Tide
Freil Falls
Freil Falls
Cruising to Blind Bay
Blind Bay- Ballet Bay Anchorage
Ballet Bay
Evening - Ballet Bay
Sunset Ballet Bay
We were on a real high after our bear spotting and made me excited to see more wildlife. Maybe there would be more bears to come soon. We said goodbye to our bear friend and made the 30 mile trek to Westview Harbour where we would spend a couple days and stage for Desolation Sound. Westview Marina doesn't staff the office on the weekends and it's a first come first serve bases for transients so we didn't know what to expect or even know where to go. Finally through some active captain comments and some investigation we learned where we were permitted to tie up. Upon arrival we saw one single space left on the transient dock and we quickly snagged it. Looking around we saw a sign indicating where we needed to be and were relieved to have a spot. After securing the boat we hit the town just to find almost all businesses were closed either due to it being Sunday or just out of business. This is not a town I would call a charmer. We did manage to find a restaurant that was open and enjoyed a surprisingly good lunch. Afterwards we walked our shopping cart up the hill and made the 25 min walk to the market for provisions. Our list was lengthy and the market was quiet good. We enjoyed a quiet Sunday evening on the boat and Jeff made us pizza.
Floating Cairn Leaving Blind Bay
Log Boom
Last Spot Westview Marina
Yup
Provisions handled we decided to crane down the bikes and head to old town Powell Lake along the bike path. Along the route there is an outdoor logging museum full of artifacts and information about the old logging business. We rode then stopped and looked and read and then rode some more. It was a very informative ride. Unfortunately we only got part of the way there and were stopped by logging operations and a huge crane above our heads and lots of signs saying, "do not enter" and "not safe for pedestrians." We were disappointed that we couldn't make it all the way to the old town but enjoyed the bike ride nonetheless. Back at the boat it was chore time- laundry, water the boat, dingy repairs, sea strainer cleaning and of course blogging. Lots to do in port always. Jeff bbq'd us a nice dinner - fish, tofu and zucchini and we were all set to head to Desolation Sound in the morning.
Where We Are
Fishing Boat Docked Next to Us
Our View Westview Harbour
Outdoor Logging Museum
Biking Along Logging Museum Path
Bike Path
