Saturday, September 26, 2020

Well I’m Southbound Lord I’m Coming Home to You

 Boy were we relieved to get settled in at Barlow Bay after traveling in the fog. And just as the hook was dropped and secured the fog rolled back in followed by the rain. So happy to be safe and warm and nice in our nest. Just the excuse we needed to spend the entire day reading. What a luxury and by far our favorite way to spend a quiet day. 

Lazy Day of Reading

The guidebooks said that the docks near the anchorage were all private and the only way to access land is to dingy across the bay to the boat launch ramp and make your way from there. Fortunately the next day gave us that opportunity. We waited until afternoon when the fog cleared and headed out to explore. We’ve heard from other boaters that locals in the San Juans aren’t very excited about tourist coming through this year due to Covid and we got to see evidence of this first hand. As we walked by a house next to the town market we noticed a very unfriendly blunt sign reading, “Tourist Go Home!” I felt anger immediately. While I understand Covid is bringing out all kinds of traits in people we were there to patronize their store and were only taking a walk on the street. It isn’t as if we were knocking on doors and breathing on people and running away. Fortunately as we meandered on almost every car waved to us as they drove by and one person outside even said hello. So I decided to chalk up the sign as one angry house. The town consisted of one tree lined road along houses and leading to another anchorage. We always appreciate stretching our legs and walked the street till we felt it was enough. On the way back we bought a few items at the little store and dinged back to the boat. For some reason ever since the Loop going to grocery stores has really turned into a sense of entertainment for us both. Weird right? The rest of the day and into the evening was clear and we really enjoyed being there. 


Dingy Dock

Sunset

Taking a Walk

Bowman Bay Anchorage

Our Welcome Sign

When we woke both the Gale and the Small Craft Warning had ended and it was time to say goodbye to the San Juan Islands. This left us both feeling sad and yet excited to be moving onto explore new areas. From the San Juans we will slowly begin making our way South to our winter destination Elliot Bay Marina in Seattle. Our slip opens up November 1st. Until then we will see what North and Central Puget Sound have to offer. I tried to design a logical linear path that will take us that direction while seeing all of the highlights. Our first stop post San Juan Islands took us to Bowman Bay on Fidalgo Island. Our guidebooks gave it a 5 out of 5  stars and said not to be missed in settled weather. The cruise took us through patchy fog but lifted as we got close. As we approached the anchorage we could see just what the guidebooks talked about. It was stunning. Nestled in trees with rock cliffs we knew we would love it. We dropped the hook pretty early around 10a.m. and sat back and enjoyed the spectacular panoramic views. Not only gorgeous but this anchorage was also a state park which meant good hikes. After lunch we set out to explore. Our walk took us through campgrounds, along beaches and all with spectacular views. As if the anchorage and hike wasn’t enough the sunset was absolutely amazing and we had the best front row seat. What a perfect day.


Tidings at Anchor

Suset 

Hiking View

Totem on Land

Hiking 

Cruising to Bowman Bay

Sunset

Sunset Bowman Bay

Hiking 

Sunset

Hike

Sunset

After a good nights sleep and a slow morning we headed back out for our second hike. This time a bit more difficult taking us over the hills to Lighthouse Point. Spectacular views abound and a slight glimpse into Deception Pass where we would need to traverse next we huffed and puffed our way up and down occasionally taking breaks to take in the gorgeous scenery. Another wonderful day at Bowman Bay capped off by Monday night football. 


Hiking 

Hiking 

View From Hike

Sunset

Gully on Hike

Deception Pass

Tidings From Hike

Unfortunately our time at Bowman Bay was coming to an end due to a strong Gale blowing in we needed to take cover from. Around the corner and through the elusive Deception Pass was Cornet Bay Anchorage which offered good South/Southeast wind protection. Jeff studied our tides and passes book and determined that 1:30p.m. was the best time to traverse the pass to hit slack tide. Deception pass’s current can run upward of 8-9 miles per hour and if you time it wrong you could be in for a very dangerous and wild ride. You want to cross at either slack or beginning of flood tide in order to get no current or a little current going with you. Our crossing while at slack still left a few wild tide pools bubbling at the surface that Jeff had to hand steer through but not too bad. Cornet Bay was nothing special. It had a launch ramp and some free floating docks with no power and some room to anchor butted up against the tress. That was just what we were looking for. We let out 150 feet of chain and settled in for the big blow. 


Entering Deception Pass

Deception Pass

Deception Pass Rear View

Deception Pass



Gale Coming 

Cornet Bay Anchorage 

The weather apps proved to be true and overnight the gale blew in flinging the boat all around. Amateurishly we left our looper flag out on the bow and between that flapping like crazy and the anchor chain scrapping along the rocks I didn’t get much sleep. After a few minutes of these hideous sounds around 2a.m. I got up to inspect and remove the flag. Like a champ our Rocna anchor held tight and we had not moved from out original position. The dingy hung on tightly along side the boat and we just wagged around like a dogs tail when his owners come home. With the flag now down I could get a little sleep in between anchor scrapes. Wednesday morning we woke up to much of the same. The gale would carry on all day and  into Thursday morning. No where to go and nothing to do we stayed in p.j’s the entire day and watched the big blow. 


Cornet Bay Anchorage

Night at Cornet Bay

After another sleepless night of wagging and anchor scraping the gale had finally ended and resulted in a small craft warning which brought lighter winds -20-25 mph so we were more then ready to get going. Our next stop fortunately was a marina. After several sleepless nights at anchor I was really looking forward to this. We up anchored in the rain and me in full gear and boots helped secure the anchor and we headed out. Only an hour and a half away up the Swinomish Channel lies La Conner Marina where we currently sit. Somehow we managed to both pump out and tie up before the rain blowing back in. Shew! Secured to a dock, full power and no where to go for days. I was relaxed and happy instantly. Since we arrived early we had lots of time to get much needed boat projects done including getting workers here to fix our forward leaking head. I started laundry and completed a few other much needed tasks. Late afternoon the rain let up and we were able to put on our tennis shoes and see the cute little town. We even got to FaceTime with our friends Randal and Michelle and hear all about their RV adventure. 


Cruising into La Conner

Town of La Conner

Cute House in La Conner

We are getting really excited because tomorrow Sami and her boyfriend Josh arrive. They will be our first visitors since leaving San Diego on June 16th. We continued to finish up our port day boat projects in anticipation of their arrival. We even got to take a late afternoon dingy ride. As of a couple hours ago Sam & Josh we getting close to San Francisco. We’ll watch their progress closely and look forward to their arrival tomorrow. 


Our Dock La Conner

Old Building From Dingy 














Wednesday, September 23, 2020

Fire! Fire On The Mountain!

 Unless you live with you head in the sand (which to me doesn’t sound half bad these days considering the current state of the world and our current leader) you probably know that the west coast is on fire. While that may sound dramatic is isn’t far from the truth. We thought when we left California we were leaving the wildfires and Covid stricken big cities behind. Little did we know the fires would find us. And boy have they ever. But we’ll get back to that. 


Leaving naked sailboat guy and cider bars behind we up anchored from our large anchorage in Blind Bay and made our way South to Jones Island. Talk about night and day. We went from a large wide open anchorage to a very tight squeeze in deep water in a small horseshoe shaped anchorage with mooring balls, a dock and space for about three other boats (us being one of them) to anchor. Frustration was high deciding on a spot shallow enough to drop the hook, spaced out enough from rocks on the sides and other boats who were already there. Finally in about 50 feet in a less then ideal spot we settled in. To give you a sense of just how small this anchorage was after we were secured I went outside and could hear every conversation on all boats surrounding us. So much for privacy. Fortunately Jones Island has some great hikes. Two permitter hikes and one other that connects our anchorage to one on the other side. Sun shinning and warm. It was the first day the entire summer that it was warm enough for me to wear shorts. We through on our tennis shoes and hit the trails. Little did we know that we were not the only inhabitants on land. Five deers walked and ate grass as we trecked by. Not even phases by our presence they continued eating and looking at us but never moved. What a treat. Incredible tree lined paths wound us around the parameter of the island and through areas we would have never seen otherwise. A nice sea breeze kept us cool on this warm 77 degree day. Several other groups of masked hikers passed us by waving and saying hello. Nice touches such as picnic tables, chairs and swings were placed along the hike for people to enjoy. Adequately exercises it was time to dingy back for happy hour and to observe the other wildlife. It was also the first night of NFL football. Super excited. We fired up the sat t.v. and settled in.


Jones Island Anchorage

Deer on our Hike

Trees Along Hike

Jeff Swinging on Hike

Hiking Trail

Sunset Jones Island Anchorage

The first night at a new anchorage like this can be a little nerve wrecking. Will the anchor hold? Will other boat’s anchor’s hold? Will we crash into one another over night? Will the boat drift out into the big open space around us? No matter how many times we anchor in tight non-surrounded spots these same thoughts always run through my head the first night while trying to  sleep. After we make it through the first night without incident I’m fine but until then my mind races. Fortunately a trusty anchor held tight as did the other boats and we lived to tell another day. 


The next day we woke up to what we thought was pea soup fog. When I opened the back door to check around I noticed an awful smell in the air as if something was burning. I assumed it was campers on shore and didn’t think much of it. Only a little while later did I realize it was the wildfires. They had found us. The weather channel app informed us that we were under a air quality advisory and the air due to the wildfires in eastern Washington which were now blowing our way, was no longer safe to breath. What?! Never ever did we imagine that nestled in the San Juan Islands in Washington in the middle of the water would we be effected by wildfires. Since I’ve dealt with asthma in the past we decided to spend the morning indoors. Worried but not panicky we were baffled. Fortunately early afternoon the smoke cleared and we set out for another hike around the island. Not failing to impress we sweated our way around scenic Jones Island wondering what was to come. 


Hikers

Tidings of Joy From Hike

Jones Island Hike

We both slept well our second night at Jones and when we woke up that same worry and anxiety took over. Fog or so we thought was thick.But it wasn’t fog. Smoke. The fires has once again blown in. Causing up the west coast most days we were in fog. It isn’t something new or uncomfortable to us but smoke did not feel the same. The air smelled like a campfire and everything looked hazy and brown. I told Jeff it looked like an old time photograph that had yellowed. The air quality was still in effect and after we made it to Fisherman Bay Anchorage we stayed in for the rest of the day staring out the window in disbelief.


Causing in Smoke

Fisherman Bay Smoked In

Air Quality Warning

Fisherman bay is my favorite type of anchorage - surrounded in all sides, plenty of swing room and some decent scenery. In this type of anchorage I feel comfortable right away. If any of my previously listed fears should happen this is nowhere for us to go. We woke up to much of the same fog/smoke but it seemed to have dissipated a bit. Since it was our last day there we decided to take the dink to the dock and walk the mile into town. Our guide books told us there was bakery that wasn’t to be missed. Walking along with road on a soft shoulder isn’t our idea of a nice walk but in a lot of these “towns” that’s all there is. The temperature was cool and cars waved to us as they passed. Finally we made our way to Holly B’s Bakery and Jeff got their speciality an almond maple horn (something we’ve never heard of - think of a large danish) and a chocolate chip cookie. Sweets in tow we made our way back to the dink. By now the smoke had come in a lot and we couldn’t even see the anchorage from the dock. I got really nervous but Jeff navigated us back like a champ and once again we were in our safe abode. Smoke surrounded us all night and we kept the doors closed and watched the first Sunday NFL football games. 




Getting Treats at Holly B's

Most of the San Juan Islands are made up of anchorages both big and small, some state parks, some private islands and far and few between are marinas. These tend to be super exciting at the thought of getting shore power, water, emptying your trash and seeing what goods and services the places have to offer. Friday Harbor was one of those places. This is considered the big city of the islands. Shops, restaurants (yes, more then one), bars and a whole community of local services like a post office and a county seat are located here and we were excited to check it all out. The cruise much like the last few was smoke filled. This was our new norm. Positioned in a tight spot inside the breakwater Jeff slipped the boat in like a champ. He did so well that as we walked down the dock to explore another boater came out of his boat and commended him on his superior docking. That made our day. The town did not disappoint. We bought some much sought after local coffee for a friend and cruised up and down the streets. Jeff making mental notes of all the seafood he would get. At the end of the dock a permeant seafood vendor is set up and jeff grabbed some local fish to cook for dinner. Just as we returned to the boat the rain set in just in time for happy hour and the Monday night football double header. We put on our p.j. poured some libations and watched the rain and the game. Safe and nestled we were happy. 


Town of Friday Harbor

Tidings Docked Friday Harbor

Entering Friday Harbor in the Smoke

They Knew I Was Arriving

And Again

Outside Marina

At 6a.m. we woke to the ferry blasting its fog horn as it entered the harbor. Fortunately we had no where to go and nothing to do so we fell back asleep. Today was my kinda day - slow morning with no specific agenda. Time to catch up on laundry and few boat projects and then we would go back to the much anticipated Chocolate and Port store that was closed yesterday. The kind owner was seated behind the counter as we entered and when Jeff inquired about one of the ports she gave us a sample to try. She had a full display of individual chocolates including a nice vegan selection and several other prepackaged chocolates as well. I was in heaven. Chocolate and port what could be better?! We settled on a bottle of port and a small selection of chocolate and headed across the street to the market for some fresh produce. 


Friday Harbor Marina

View From Town

When we arrived Jeff scheduled the Friday Harbor pump-out service Pumpity Dumpity to come first thing before we headed out. After a much needed pump we readied the boat for our noon departure. But before we could leave Jeff wanted to get fish and chips from The Baitshop which had been closed the previous two days. Greasy bag in hand we hurried back to the boat to eat before it got cold. Jeff adequately fished and happy was ready to go. 


They say when you choose a destination you should always have a plan B ready just in case. We’ve never really done this except for today. Turn Island was to be our next destination. While listed in the guide books and marked on the map nothing too inspiring was said about it. Rocky, strong currents and a lot of wake from passing boats was mentioned in two books. Somewhat determined I told Jeff lets just go and take a look and decide when we get there. Connected to our marina at Friday Harbor by a side bay was another anchorage we could always go to as a back up. Well sure enough the guidebooks did not lie. The anchorage was a slight indent to Turn Island with swirling currents which was deep until almost shore and rushing wake slapping us as we inched closer to shore then we would like. Nope. This wouldn’t work and we both knew had we attempted it it would just be a bad nights sleep for us both. So we made the U turn and headed back to Friday Harbor After frustratingly circling over and over here to find the best spot in the right amount of depth we finally dropped the hook after an hour and a half. Not very scenic and nestled between a bunch of derelict boats we gave up. At least we wouldn’t be rolling around and would get some sleep. The smoke continued. Happy hour came and we went to bed. 


Fortunately our plan B was only a one nighter. Our final stop in the San Juan Islands - Mackaye Harbor has to be trimmed just right to avoid massive 3-4 knot currents in the straight. Our time to depart was 9a.m. At that time we could not see past the flag on our bow due to heavy smoke/fog filled air. Sitting and wondering we pushed it back to 10a.m. which gave us a view of our exit but not much else. Thick thick smoke filled air filled our vision and every time jeff had to use the bathroom I was nervous to take the helm. It’s one thing being in fog in the Pacific where it’s wide open and you know you are alone for miles and another being in the narrow straights of the San Juan Islands that while watching radar you can hope it’s okay but you never know when you’ll find a log or some crab pots. As we approached out anchorage I got the sickening feeling that what if we can’t see the anchorage at all? And what if we can’t see other boats that are anchored there? I didn’t mention this to Jeff but knew he was thinking the same thing. We never saw the islands we were approaching or the channel we entered but fortunately when we rounded the corner to the anchorage we got about 200 yards of visibility and could see the other boats anchored. We dropped the hook and just like that the smoke/fog returned and we no longer could see a thing. 




Jeff's Fish & Chips

Boats Docked at Friday Harbor

Leaving in the Fog

Barlow Bay

Foggy Travel Day

Friday Harbor Anchorage

Barlow Bay

Foggy Cruise to Barlow Bay