After about a week back in Shelter Bay Marina putting the boat back together, catching up with friends, celebrating our 26th anniversary and reprovisioning for a month we headed back out. This time heading in the opposite direction towards Colombia (which will serve has our summer hurricane hole) to the San Blas Islands. Jeff wasn't too into another over nighter all the way to the islands so we broke up the trip into two day hops. First we went to Linton bay for fuel then onto Turtle Cay Marina. Crossing the canal entrance was a bit harry with all the freighters but we managed without a problem. The seas were cooperative a mere 2-3 feet with light 5-14mph winds. As we entered Linton we weaved our way through the mooring field where boats were scattered everywhere with no denoted channel. Not fun. Fuel was reasonable then they told us where our slip was. After getting tied up and attempting to connect to power a dock worker told us there would be no power for several days. Nobody had told us this prior when we made our reservation. Why would we pay for a marina if we have no power? Lines tossed and off we went. Turtle Cay marina wasn't that much further only another hour and forty five minutes. We felt as if we had no choice. At 4:45 we made our way up the narrow shallow channel that is Turtle Cay and wondered where to go. We saw an end tie and proceeded to take it. A man moseyed out and helped me tie the lines to the raised cement docks. It came out that he was the dock master. Very laid back and without shoes he survived the boat and said 25 dollars. We paid him in cash and that was all that was said. Ok. Our friend Skip and his crew on Raaja happened to be there as well and that evening we all had dinner together along with a special local friend, a pet sloth.
Crossing Canal Entrance
Weaving Our Way Through Linton Bay
Secured at Turtle Cay Marina
Dinner with Skip & Raaja Crew
Me & Local Sloth
Not being in any hurry and with good weather holding we decided to stay a second night at Turtle Cay. We enjoyed a slow morning then took a nice walk around the property and along the beach. Turtle Cay is uninhabited and full of trees and birds and gorgeous nature that we were loving. At the end of our walk we spent the rest of the day in the pool. It was great.
Walking Around Turtle Cay
Finally ready, at 0900 we threw lines at Turtle and made the 42 mile trek to what we thought would be our first anchorage Chichime Island in the San Blas archipelago. When we arrived the anchorage was packed full of boats anchored very close together with little to no swing room. It didn't (at first glance) look like any place we would ever choose to go. We found one single spot we thought would work for us giving us enough room away from the other boats to put out adequate scope and feel safe. The second we started dropping the hook a panga of locals came out to sell us stuff which instantly put Jeff on edge. I reminded him we had a job to do and would get to them when it was safe and appropriate. Three attempts later the hook wouldn't grab and we decided to bail. Fortunately Yansaladup was right next door just a short 30 minute ride away. Yansaladup was the complete opposite of Chichime, wide open with lots of space for many boats with plenty of swing room. We scoped out our spot and by 3:15 were safe and secure in our first stop in the San Blas. We quickly jumped into the water then shortly there after cracked a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate our arrival.
Old Shipwreck Welcoming Us to San Blas
Chichime Anchorage Ahead
Anchored in Yansaladup
Local Guna Came to Welcome Us
Benny's House on Yansaladup
Day two in Yansaladup brought a lot of wind like 25mph so we hunkered down swimming and reading all day and watching all the action. Several local pangas took tourists out to Benny's house on the island to swim and snorkel and buy their handicrafts. We were so happy to finally be here.
Tourist on the Island
Night Yansaladup
Our third day at Yansaladup we got quite the local experience. Vanencio a local mola maker came by on his panga and showed us his products. We enjoyed seeing all of his works of art as he took the time to open every single one of them and show us. After much thought and attention we bought two and a local flag to fly on top of our Panama flag. The Guna Yala people of the San Blas islands are their own separate nation from Panama and have their own flag and laws. It is customary and respectful to fly their flag while cursing in the San Blas. I was happy to get one so soon after arriving.
Watching Vanencio Arrive
Seeing All The Molas
Our Purchases - Two Molas & A Flag
Benny (the owner of the house on the island) came by the boat several times inviting us over to his island and to swim and snorkel so finally we got some sun and dingied over. The water shallows well before the island and we dropped the hook on the dink and walked our way in. Us and several tourists boats walked around seeing the island and observing this house all alone on it. It was quite remarkable. Benny saw us and offered us chairs in front of his house and we drank coconut water straight from the coconut. It was such a cool and unique experience. Later that day the amigos showed up at Yansaladup and we all had beers at the opposite island at the small hotel. It was great seeing them at the islands and we looked forward to many more rendezvous to come.
With the Dink at Benny's Island
Starfish in the Water
Walking Up To Benny's
Benny's House
With Benny
Drinking Some Agua De Coco at Benny's
Beers With Doug & Patty
Feeling like we had exhausted Yansaladup we decided to move along. West Holland's was an hour and thirty minute cruise and the anchorage was rolly. We deployed the flopper stoppers and spent the rest of the day swimming. Many sailboats here.
Holendas West
Snorkel Spot Holandes West
Due to the roll and the crowds we decided that one night in Hollands West as enough. April 16th we made the short 7 mile run to Banyadup. Despite there being 15 boats here we managed to carve out a quiet little corner near shore where we had plenty of space and were away from the charter catamarans. The anchorage was calm surrounded by reefs and it was nice to not roll around. We took it easy and swam off the boat and decided to explore more tomorrow.
After a good roll free nights sleep we took the dink around the island to the backside known as the swimming pool. We went over to say hi to friends (Dave & Michelle) on Ohana who we haven't seen since summering in Puerto Vallarta in 2023. We were happy to see each other and made plans to meet up later for happy hour at the swing bar.
Banyadup Anchorage
Saying Hi To Dave & Michelle
Walking Across the Island
Happy Hour With Dave & Michelle
We were really enjoying Banyadup and in no hurry to leave. Day three we took the dink to shore and decided to walk the permitter of the island for some exercise. It was perfect because the day before we had placed a bread order at Ibins restaurant that we could also pick up. Win win. The walk was hot but necessary and it was fun getting fresh bread. We ordered every kind they made- focaccia, coconut rolls, baguette and cinnamon rolls. Back at the boat we swam and played backgammon.
Me With Our Bread Order
Tidings of Joy From the Island
Island From Anchorage
The next couple of days were much like the others - swimming, reading and playing backgammon. We snorkeled and went to a nice dinner at Ibins. And then it wasn't so nice. We woke up on the morning of April 21st to some sailboat anchoring right on top of us - w/in 30 yards. Clearly not appropriate and very irritating. Our perfect little niche invaded. This immediately put us both on edge. Then after a little bit the owner of the sailboat dingied over and Jeff went outside to talk to him and comes inside with the guys cellphone saying they want to use our wifi. That was it. I couldn't take it anymore and grabbed the guys cellphone out of Jeff's hand and took it outside to him and said, "first you anchor us down w/in 30 yards and now you want our wifi password? I don't think so. No!" and gave his phone back, turned around and came back inside the boat. The nerve. Needless to say we left the next day.
Locals Selling Molas
Ibin's Restaurant
Dinner at Ibin's
Drinks at the Swing Bar
I've never been more ready to leave a place as I was Banyadup. The party was defiantly over. At 10:27am we pulled anchor and made our way the short 9 miles to Western Coco Bandero. We had quite the time of it. Originally we planned to anchor at Coco Bandero but it was tight and packed with boats so we bailed going instead to Western Coco Bandero. When we arrived there was only one charter cat there and lots of space. For some reason it took us 3 attempts to get the hook positioned where we wanted it leaving enough space between us and them and yet still getting some protection from the island away from the reefs. Finally at 12:30 we were set. It felt great to be one of two boats in the whole place. It was kinda rolly but so much better than being anchored down. Space to breathe.
Anchored in Western Coco Bandero
The next day we took the dink to shore to meet the locals and stretched our legs. The families were very welcoming and I even bought anklet that the Guna woman who made it wrapped around my ankle for me. It was nice supporting the local culture where we would be spending several nights.
Visiting the Island
Getting my Anklet Wrapped On
Walking the Island
Locals
The next morning we took the dink to a known snorkel spot where we saw the most fish we have ever seen while snorkeling. If only we had an underwater camera. It is so great to be able to anchor the dink and snorkel right off the boat. Incredible. We continued the day with more swimming and backgammon.
Our fourth day at Western Coco Bandero was a lot of fun for several reasons. First, Opio the veggie guy showed up and we bought some fruits and veg from him and secondly we got a chance to use our new SUP. Finally it was calm enough for our limited abilities. It was such a nice day.
Opio and His Fruits & Veg
The following day it rained until the afternoon when we got a little break we hopped in the dink and headed to the adjacent island where we walked the short perimeter and no sooner then we did we saw black clouds rolling in and the next squall approaching and quickly made our way back to the boat just before it dumped again.
Leg Stretch
The rain continued for days and finally on April 29th it let up and we made our way out of Western Coco Bandero. Once again we had to pivot. Our plan was to go to Green Island but after counting 25 boats in the anchorage we decided to move along to Sabudpored. With only a few boats here now getting closer to the main land the water was brown and not the green emerald color we had grown to love. Due to the recent rains the rivers overflow and poured out into this anchorage making it the brown earthy color. This meant no swimming and very hot temperatures. The next day the rain and the brown continued. We did some boat chores and then took the dink to an uninhabited island nearby and walked the perimeter. While nice to stretch our legs the anchorage was unimpressive and the lack of swimming was a real turn off. We would need to leave in the morning.
Green Island Madness
Sabudpored
Before leaving Sabudpored we got a visit from the real veggie boat. This boat was packed with fruits and veg and they had their own scale and really were impressive. We bought a ton from them. Then by 11am we pulled anchor and headed to Esnadup. The 40 minute cruise was uneventful and we felt close to the mainland. When we entered Esnadup we saw one boat in the inner harbor and one boat in the main anchorage. Perfect. And the water was back to the see thru clear green that we loved. Despite the two other boats we never saw anyone the entire day and spent it reading and playing cards. So much better than where we had come from.
Veggie Boat
Esnadup
The second day at Esnadup we decided to explore our new territory. We launched the kayak and paddled all around the perimeter and the inner anchorage still not seeing anyone. Later that day a boat full of the Guna Yala congress came by to collect fees for visiting the San Blas which we gladly paid. They were very serious but friendly. The rest of the day was spent reading and swimming.
The next couple of days we enjoyed some snorkeling off of the dingy, swimming and playing backgammon. We used the SUP in the flat calm water and were really loving our calm, quiet and almost empty anchorage.
Gordo Gecko - Boat Mascot
Jeff having had enough quiet solitude was ready to move on. I could stay at these secluded anchorages forever. At 11am on May 5th we made the short 4 mile run to Cambombia. There were 10 other boats here but we were able to to find a quiet spot behind everyone where we had lots of swing room and plenty of privacy. We took the boat to shore to get a beer and check out the island a bit. The locals were friendly and welcoming and after our beer we walked the perimeter of the island and I bought a bracelet from one of the woman and her family.
Beers at Cambombia
Island Walk
Reading Time
The next day I wanted to explore the uninhabited island and see what it was all about. When we got there we noticed a strip of white sandy beach covered with two palm trees that looked perfect for a beach picnic day. I suggested we come back the next day and do just that. The island was so pretty and untouched. We really loved getting to visit these pristine uninhabited islands that were so pure. After a few loops around we headed back to the boat to swim and play backgammon.
Day three we followed through with our plan for an island picnic day. I packed our lunches, chairs, cooler, towels and a speaker and we were off on the dink. For some reason I was worried (like in the U.S.) that someone would take our spot but as it turns out we were the only ones on the island both days. It felt like our little secret spot. We set up camp and soaked in the view. We swam, listened to music and had our picnic lunch. At some point the breeze died and things went south. No breeze equals bugs and at one point both of my legs were covered and I knew we had to leave asap. We quickly got the dink packed up and sped off. It was such a shame because it was so ideal there but man did we suffer for it. The next day we woke up with so many bug bites. The price to pay for private island life.
Island Walk
The Uninhabited Island
Anchored for Beach Picnic
Our Picnic Spot
The next morning is what every boater fears most- fire. We woke up and I did a load of laundry as I always do on Tuesdays. Towels were drying away while we ate breakfast. At one point I heard a strange clicking sound and asked Jeff what it was. Neither of us knew. I walked up to the pilot house to investigate and smelled smoke. As I looked down the stairwell I saw gray smoke making its way up the stairwell and shouted to Jeff to get the fire extinguisher. Not knowing where it was we opened the dryer together and it wasn't there. Then when Jeff opened the cabinet behind the washer and dryer where they are plugged in he saw a fire covering the entire plug and quickly covered it with the fire extinguisher. Our hearts were racing and shock and disbelief set in. We decided to move on making our way closer to Porvenir (where we need to check out of Panama and the San Blas) to Myriadup just in case we need to make a quick exit. After taking a moment we realized that we could continue cruising without a dryer and really it was a luxury at sea and not anything mandatory for boat operations. We were the only boat at Myriadup and we weren't sure if there was a restaurant or what was going on. We just napped and swam and took it easy for the rest of the day. We both felt pretty worn out.
Fried Plug
Myriadup
After a good nights sleep we decided to make our way to shore and figure out what was going on. We saw a couple of guys working and asked if it was ok to walk around. They said sure and one of them told us that his daughter was on the mainland with her sick child and would be back the following day. After a short stroll he asked us if we could fill some water jugs for him which we did and returned. Kinda a weird feeling here.
Walking Myriadup
The following day was spent very lazily in jams until 3pm when we changed into bathing suits and swam until generator and ac time at 6pm.
Salardup is only 4.7 miles from Myriadup and right next door to where we were. When we arrived on May 12th we were one of three boats and we all anchored in a straight line due to the surrounding reefs and wind protection from the island. We kept a good distance from the others which made me happy. Around lunch time we got into the dink and headed for the island to scope things out. We read there was a restaurant there so we were hopeful for lunch. The little restaurant was quiet and two men were there one laying down. When we asked about beers they got us a couple but when we asked about lunch they said that we missed it and it was only served from 1-1:30. It was now 1:45. Oh well. We sat drinking our beers and looking at the beautiful view. Before we had time to finish our beers a man came up introducing himself as the chef and said he could open the kitchen for us if we wanted to have lunch. We thanked him profusely and asked for one vegan meal and one fish. About 5 guys went to work and then we were presented with lunch. They made me lentils, rice and salad and Jeff the same but with a fish. The food was surprisingly good for the little homemade kitchen it came from and we were grateful. We took a leisurely stroll afterwards then headed back to the boat to swim.
Waiting for Lunch
Our View
Strolling Around the Island
At some point over the last week Jeff had decided he was all done. He was getting board of our anchoring and swimming routine. He was getting frustrated with boat issues - fire, generator needing oil every few days, davit leaking hydro fluid and finally he said, "that's it we're outta here!" and we started making our way towards Porvenir where we would check out of Panama before leaving the San Blas Islands. While it made me sad and I could anchor indefinitely and never get bored I knew that we should start addressing all of our boat issues.
The next day we left Salardup for Los Grullos. And if Jeff wasn't convinced of leaving this anchorage would push him that way. It was rolly and exposed and even with the flopper stoppers we moved around quite a bit. We were the only boat there and the locals who paddled out were very friendly and welcoming. We continued our routine of swimming and playing backgammon and I was getting sad knowing that our anchoring was coming to an end and it would be a very long while (until after hurricane season) until we would be able to anchor again.
Los Grullos
At 0900 the following morning we pulled anchor and made our hour and fifteen minute run to Porvenir where we would drop the hook temporarily while Jeff took the dink to shore and got our exit papers. It was overcast and rainy and it seemed to capture the mood. The whole process from hook down, check out to cast off was 30 minutes. So easy and straightforward. Once again we were greeted by panga with some locals selling molas. Jeff told them no think you but gave them a donation. At 11:40 we had the hook down at Lemon Cay, a spot that our friends Kurtis and Sam had previously anchored at and raved about the calm water and privacy which was music to my ears especially after the roll at Los Grullos. They were right. It was flat calm and nobody was around. It was just the calm that we both needed. The locals were intense here. There must have been 5 pangas that came by. Jeff bought a lobster and then this older lady came aboard uninvited and tried to come into the boat. She was very aggressive and forceful and Jeff bought a mola that we didn't want from her just to get her to leave. It was a very weird experience.
Customs Office Porvenir
Waiting for Jeff to Check Us Out
Going to Check Out
Porvenir
Mola Lady Onboard
Lemon Cay
Our final stop and launching point in the San Blas Islands was Snug Harbor. Located 49 miles from Lemon Cay it felt like we were leaving the islands. It rained most of the day and I had a melancholy feeling. Snug was really nice. It was tucked in and very calm and felt secure. There was one sailboat there when we arrived but we had a lot of room between us. We took our final swim and some locals came by selling lobster and asking for coke and water. They were very nice and friendly and urged us to visit their island.
35 days on the hook visiting the beautiful San Blas Islands and getting to know the Guna Yala people was such a memorable and special experience. To see how people can live all alone on an island with no power and water is remarkable. The kindness and warm welcome they all offered us was incredible. I felt extremely lucky to be able to visit these islands. In the morning we would wake up and start our overnight passage to our summer home in Cartagena, Colombia.
Passing Some Locals Underway
Snug Harbor
Local Guna
